Croagh Patrick

The conical peak of Ireland's holy mountain, Croagh Patrick, steals the limelight in this corner of County Mayo.  It is also the focus of one of Ireland's most important pilgrimages.  To the west is a plain of moist farmland and tiny loughs, and a coastline of empty curving beaches of white sand which look out to Caher Island and Inishturk.  This coast is sparsely inhabited, but prehistoric and early Christian remains show it has been lived in for many centuries.

The stark and soaring pinnacle of Croagh Patrick (2,510ft) is a persistent landmark throughout central and southern Mayo.  It was once sacred to the pagan god Crom, but St Patrick spent the 40 days of Lent here around AD 441 and won the mountain for Christianity.  Furthermore, when he rang his bell at the edge of the mighty precipice on the south side, all the toads and snakes of Ireland leapt to their deaths, except the natterjack toad, thus ridding Ireland of all these reptiles but one, forever.  Since that time Croagh Patrick has been the focus of pilgrimage.

Throughout the year, people of all ages and all degrees of devotion, trek up the rocky path to the summit, a stiff walk of two hours or more.  The main pilgrimage, however, takes place on the Sunday before the Lughnasa feast on August 1st.  Some 60,000 pilgrims make the ascent, starting at a point just above Murrisk Abbey.  They climb the mountain throughout the day, beginning in the darkness of early morning, when they are guided by hand-held lights.  Mass is celebrated in the tiny chapel on the summit.   The broad path cut by the feet and knees of millions of pilgrims over the centuries, is clearly visible for miles around.

It should be noted that Croagh Patrick is not without fatalities.  Many people have attempted the climb without first taking into account some common-sense precautions.   For instance, when the weather is very wet, the mountain becomes very slippery and as it rises very sharply, unless you are a very experienced climber, you should abandon any attempts at climbing until drier conditions.  You should always start your climb before noon as this will give you plenty of daylight hours to ascend and descend safely.   Before beginning, take note of the cloud conditions and if they are very low, ie the top of the mountain is not visible, again you should abandon the climb.   Experienced climbers usually carry sa stout stick with them for extra support on the way up.  Consider bringing a small lightweight backpack, containing a drink and light snack.  Don't carry anything in either hand, (except of course, a stick).   When you have reached approx half way, the mountain levels out for a while,   use this break to rest and relax as much as possible, the second part of the climb is the hardest.  Many people scramble up the second part on the loose stones.   There is a path to the right of the stones, although very narrow, it does make the climb somewhat easier.  From the top, the view across Clew Bay is beautiful.

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