Bonsai configuration When you buy a tree from a specialized center or from a nursery, pay attention to the state of some tree characteristics: the base or nebari, which must be radial; the conicity and the possible movement of the trunk; the bark aspect, which make Pines more valuable; the disposition of the branches and the vegetation, which must be short and thick. Preparing
the Tree and choosing the front The
preparation starts with the cleaning of the nebari, in order to
show up the roots. You will remove the roughest mould with a wooden stick,
while you will use a Chinese brush or a soft toothbrush for a more precise
cleaning. Now the tree must be observed from every side for the right
front. There are some conditions to be respected to define the best part
of the tree. Its base must be large with conical roots of similar
dimensions, which extend like the spokes of a wheel. Some imperfections
can be corrected during the repotting operation, by pruning the
main root to let the most thin ones develop, or by removing the
superimposed roots; you can even change their direction (from vertical to
horizontal) with a wooden board. It
is very difficult to find a tree with all these characteristics, so you
will have to look for a good compromise, choosing the most
interesting tree side as its front. A detail can sometimes make it unique,
in spite of some secondary imperfections. A particular movement of the
trunk, a shari, a sinuous vessel rather than a large base, these are all
elements that alone can determine the choice of the front. Special
attention must be paid to the tree inclination: sometimes it is
sufficient to modify the observer's point of view, in order to emphasize
some qualities and hide some defects. First of all you have to be sure the
tree is well fixed to its container. Putting some wooden
wedges under the pot, you can keep on studying it from different points of
view. An abrupt bend of the trunk could seem sweeter if it is observed
from a ¾ view and not from one side. A prostrate plant could transform
into a very interesting specimen if it is set upright. Once
you have determined the front and the inclination, you can clean the
trunk of the requiring species: Junipers and Azaleas. You will
need a cutter to keep out the first layer of the bark, but you must pay
attention not to injure the white vital part of the tree: you will show
the typical reddish color of Juniper bark. With the blade you lift
a strip of bark and pull it down like you were peeling a banana. You can
pull out short or long strips of bark. Then, using a soft metallic brush,
you will brush the entire trunk and the main branches, in order to show
the typical reddish color. To finish up on the right note, you will rub
with a soaked in olive oil cloth and make it shine.
The
branch selection requires a precise idea of the tree final
aspect, so it will be necessary to work carefully and methodically.
When you start work, you'd better consider just one problem at a time and gradually.
So you can concentrate on every passage and reduce the mistakes. You
do not have always to use the lowest branches of a tree: in some cases it
is better to cut them off and start designing the bonsai-tree from the
fourth or fifth branch. The basic principle lays in the respect of the
proportions. Anyhow, some branches must be cut off: the ones that
superimpose intercross, the ones that present abrupt L-shaped curve
towards the top or the soil, the ones that cross the trunk. Also the thin
branches presenting knots must be eliminated. In deciduous
trees the branches must be clearly cut off, applying a layer of healing
paste (available on the market) that will stimulate the cells to repair
the wound. Going
on the branch selection, you get to the top. Before
you start wiring, you must clean the Pines and Fir-trees needles.
This
technique applies to every style, apart from the Formal Upright
style. You can use it when you think it is necessary to change the direction
of a branch or a trunk. It is often used to low the top without
polling it or to create a new trunk from a big, long side branch. The
technical possibility of designing a bend depends on the grower's
skill and on the available material. The botanic species is a limiting
factor, as the deciduous trees are not so suitable for. Apart from
young specimens and weeping trees, they generally have a very hard wooden
tissue. On
the other hand, conifers are the most suitable for. They are more
flexible and even very old specimens can be belt. Some experts have
subjected even the Mugo Pines, characterized by a high specific weight and
great resistance, to this technique. If
you start bending a branch or a small trunk without any kind of
experience, you should take some precautions. The part you want to
bend should be protected with some wet raffia, in order to make it
more elastic. It is not able to avoid breaks, but will keep the wounded
parts adherent to the lower layers and helps the tissue healing. Later
you will apply one or more big threads, which are useful to keep the final
position and also to anchor possible supports.
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