Installation of new front master cylinder rebuild kit
This is just information you should not attempt this job
unless you are an expierienced professional with motorcycles.
CAUTION
- Use only DOT 4 brake fluid as anything else may cause brake failure.
- DOT 4 brake fluid is hydroscorpic which means it absorbs water,
thus you should only use brake fluid from a sealed container
- Do not allow foreign material to enter the master cylinder resevoir
while filling it.
- Brake fluid can damage paint, plastic and rubber.
- Hydraulic brakes should only be serviced by a trained and expierienced
person.
- If the brakes are "spongy", leaking or have any defects whatsoever
then the motorcycle is not safe to drive.
- If brake fluid or and other substance contaminates the brake disc
then it will need to be cleaned with "brake parts degreaser".
- If brake pads become contaminated with brake fluid or any other
substance then they should be discarded.
- Once a seal has been broken new seals should be fitted.
- Do not mix different types of brake fluid.
- After servicing the brakes: inspect and test the brakes before taking
the bike on the road.
- If any of the threaded components (eg: caliper body bolts, bleed
nipple, hose connection etc) are damaged then the front brake system is
unreliable.
- Do not bend or twist the brake hose (Inspect the hose for cracks or
any signs of damage).
Before you start you should have:
- Front master cylinder rebuild kit.
- Small internal cir-clip pliers.
- DOT 4 brake fluid (250ml).
- Clean rags and common tools.
Note: Brake fluid can damage paint work, some rubbers and some plastics.
Procedure:
- Note: Do not allow air to get into the hose because you will
then need to bleed the hole system.
- Remove the front brake lever.
- Remove M/C cap.
- Remove the fluid from the resovir.
- Remove the boot (dust cover) from the master cylinder piston.
- You should be able to see a snap-ring holding the piston in
place, close the snap-ring slightly and the piston should pop out.
- Remove the piston (which should have two oil seals
on it) and the
spring.
Note how the old piston was orientated in the master cylinder
and make sure you install the new piston in the same way.
Check that the lips of the oil seals on the new piston are
pointing in the same direction as the seals on the old piston.
- Clean the master cylinder with brake fluid and inspect it
for damage, the internal diameter of the cylinder should not
exceed 12.76mm. (if it's damaged, replace it).
- Insert the new piston (coated in brake fluid) followed by
the snap-ring, close the snap-ring slightly and push it in as
far as it will go and release it.
- Double check that the snap-ring has seated properly,
because if it hasn't the brakes will fail.
- Coat the new boot in special grease and install it by gently pushing
it's base in with a screwdriver and push it's crown over the
piston with your finger until it seats securely.
- fill the resovoir to the upper mark with new brake fluid.
Note: Never re-use old brake fluid.
- Reinstall the lever and ajust it to give maximum range.
- Squeze the lever while losening the M/C oil bolt,
allow the air bubbles to come out, tighten the oil bolt
before the lever becomes fullly depressed.
- Repeat this until there are no bubbles in the brake fluid.
- Apply light vibration or tapping to the hose and fitting to
losen any stubborn bubbles.
- When the lever feels hard when depressed your done, if
it doesn't become hard then you will need to bleed the hole
system.
Troubleshooting
brake lever/pedal soft or spongey.
- Air in hydraulic system
- Low fluid level
- Hydraulic system leaking
Brake lever/pedal too hard
- Sticking piston(s)
- Clogged hydraulic system
- Pads glazed or worn excessively
Brake drag
- Hydraulic system sticking
- Sticking piston(s)
- Clogged hydraulic system
- Incorrect lever/pedal ajustment
- Disc or wheel misaligned
Brakes grab
- Pads contaminated
- Disc or wheel misaligned
Brake chatter or squeal
- Pads contaminated
- Excessive disc runout
- Caliper installed incorrectly