New Clutch

This info is not comprehensive.
The clutch outter is the clutch basket.

CAUTION

• Try to use a good quality socket to remove the
  crankcase cover bolts as anything less may result
  in you rounding off the heads of the bolts.
• Once you have the bolts removed, the crankcase
  cover will still be stuck onto the crankcase,
  Do not attempt to lever off the cover by inserting
  anything under the cover because any damage to the
  mating surfaces will result in oil leaks later.
  There are "ears" on the crankcase cover that can be
  used to remove it.
• The clutch pressure plate is made of very weak
  aluminium and is very easy to break. Loosen the
  bolts in a criss cross pattern and do not tighten
  the bolts too hard.
• When removing the old gasket be carefull not to
  damage the mating surfaces of the crankcase cover.
• Before you tighten down the four lifter plate
  bolts be sure that the springs are pressing all the
  friction plates and steel plates together.
• Do not allow any foreign particles to enter the
  crank case while you have the cover removed.
  
• Soak the new clutch friction plates in fresh
  motor oil for several hours before fitting. Also
  coat the steel plates in motor oil before fitting.

What you need

• Full set of friction plates.
• Four springs.
• Clutch lock nut.
• Clutch cover gasket.
• You may need new steel plates if the old ones
  are scored or warped (unlikely).

Tools

• 8mm, 10mm and 27mm sockets.
• Tools to clean gasket mating surfaces.
• Something to unstake the clutch lock nut.
• Feeler gauge.
• Vernier caliper.
• Torque wrench
• Breaker bar and 27mm socket.
• Clutch center holder, You could avoid needing
  this tool if you just put the bike into gear.

Procedure

1. Remove the exhaust down pipe of the rear
   cylinder (you will need a long extension for
   your rachet to do this). Romove the bolt that
   secures the exhaust collector box to the right
   foot rest hanger so that the collector box will
   drop down 1 or 2 mm which will make it easier
   to remove and install the down pipe.
2. Remove the crankcase cover bolts in a
   criss cross pattern.
3. Use the "ears" on the cover to remove
   it from the engine.
4. Before you remove the clutch unit test
   the damper. There is a large metal gear
   rivetted to the back of the clutch basket.
   There is a damper between the gear and the
   basket much like the damper behind the rear
   sprocket. The strength of two hands should
   not be able to rotate the damper, if there
   is free movement then the basket is defective.
5. Carefully remove the four spring
   loaded lifter plate bolts, turn each bolt
   a quater a turn at a time, in a criss cross
   pattern, maintain equal pressure on each bolt.
   Once the bolts are half way out you can remove
   them quicker.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
6. Romove the lifter plate and springs.
7. Before you remove the clutch center lock nut note
   how the four colums of the pressure plate feel loose.
8. Unstake and remove the clutch lock nut
   (27mm socket with breaker bar and extension),
   use the clutch center holder to hold the clutch
   unit OR put the bike into 5th gear and press the
   rear brake to stop the clutch unit form turning.
   Sometimes this nut is difficult to remove, an impact
   wrench and a blow torch might help.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
9. Romove the clutch inner (The judder spring
   and it's seat should be on this) Check for wear
   where the steel plates press on the clutch inner.
10. Remove the Friction plates and the steel
    plates.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
11. Inspect the steel plates for scoring or
    warpage, warpage service limit is 0.3mm.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
12. Remove the pressure plate.
13. Remove and inspect clutch outer for damage
    or wear where the friction plate tabs press
    on the basket.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
14. 1. Lay the clutch basket on you work bench
    2. Install the pressure plate
    3. Install a friction plate then a steel
       plate then another friction plate etc.
       NOTE: There should be one different friction
       plate in your set , the one that is different
       goes on last. The last friction plates tabs
       go into a different slot that the other plates.
    4. Install the clutch inner, rotate it as
       you push it in. Make sure it is all the way
       in.
       NOTE: the judder spring and it's seat should be
       in place, look at picture to see how the
       Judder spring is orientated.
15. Install your assembled clutch unit onto it's
    shaft.
    NOTE: If the unit wont go on all the way then
    move the oil pump chain to align the bosses
    and then push it on.
16. Double check that everything has seated.
    
17. Instal and tighten (130 Nm) and stake clutch
    lock nut.
    Note: Before you stake the lock nut check that
    the four colums of the pressure plate feel loose
    like they did before you removed the nut. If it's
    not loose then something is catching and the nut
    will have to be reomved.
18. Install springs, lifter plate and the four
    bolts, before you tighten down the bolts check
    that the springs are pressing all the friction
    plates and steel plates together. If the plates
    are not being pressed together then the clutch
    will not work and may break the pressure plate.
19. Carefully tighten down the four lifter
    plate bolts in a criss cross pattern, turning each
    bolt 1/2 of a turn at a time, maintain equal spring
    pressure on each bolt, do not tighten the bolts too hard
    as this will break the pressure plate, Simply seat
    the bolts and tighten them securely (guess: 10Nm).
    Note: When the bolts are screwed all the way in they
    should tighten suddenly, if they just tighter and tighter
    then something might be wrong.
    
20. Check that everthing has seated properly and
    that the friction/steel plates are being pressed
    together by the springs.
21. Make sure the oil nipple, O ring and washer for
    the cam oil feed pipe are in place.
    
    
22. Apply liberal amounts of grease to crank case
    mating surfaces and to the gasket.
23. Check that the cluch lifter is seated properly
    in the crankcase cover.
24. Insert the dowel pins into the crank case then
    apply the gasket followed by the crankcase cover.
25. Tighten the crank case cover bolts in a criss
    cross pattern.
26. Install exhaust down pipe
    
27. Apply copper grease to the threads of all bolts
    or nuts.

Torque values:

8mm oil bolt on R crankcase cover	23 Nm
Crankcase cover bolts	10 Nm
Clutch lock nut	130 Nm