Inspection and replacement of bearings.
Front wheel bearings.
- Check the front wheel for play or remove the wheel and turn the
inner race of the bearing with your finger, if it feels notchy or gritty
then the bearing should be replaced.
- OE: NTN 6004LU.
Sealed ball bearing ID:20mm, OD:42mm, W:12mm
- Remove front wheel.
- Use a puller to tap out the 20mm shaft bearings or if you don't have
that I suppose you could use a screw driver and hammer to knock out the
bearing but be carefull to keep the beaing straight and not to damage
the light alloy housing.
- Use a bearing driver (42mm OD) to drive in the new bearings or if you
don't have one of them, use a 1/2" drive socket (27mm maybe) that has an OD
of just under 42mm to gently tap in the new bearing, be sure to keep the
bearing straight as you tap it in, don't tap the inner race of the bearing.
Steering stem bearings.
- If you hear a "click" sound when you suddenly apply or release the front brakes
then your steering stem bearings may be worn.
- Lift the font wheel off the ground and check for a jog in the steering stem.
Check for a jog in several steering positions. If there is a jog then the
steering stem bearings will need to be tightened or possibly replaced.
Rear sprocket carrier bearing
- Grab the rear sprocket and check for play or remove the final drive damper
drive flange (the thing the rear sprocket is bolted to) and turn the inner
race of the bearing with your finger, if it feels notchy or gritty then the
bearing should be replaced.
- OE: Koyo 6007 2RS.
Ball bearing, two rubber seals, ID:35mm, OD:62mm, W:14mm
- Unstake and remove the large 35mm lock nut using a 46mm socket.
- To make it easier I'd remove the chain guard and take the chain off the
the sprocket and move the it out of the way, also if the flange is seized
then removing the rear wheel can make it easier to work on.
- The final drive damper drive flange (the thing that the sprocket is bolted
onto) is held in place by the 35mm lock nut, if it hasn't been removed recently
it may be slightly seized, gently tap the rear sprocket with a hammer then
rotate it 30° and tap it again, rotate and tap, rotate and tap, until it
starts to move. The drive flange is made of cast aluminium and is very easy to break.
- Drive the old bearing out of the drive flange, grease everything, and
install the new bearing
Note: Drive in the bearing by pushing on the outter race not the inner race.
- Tighten the 35mm locknut to 165 Nm, rear wheel nut:120 Nm, pinch bolt:75Nm.
- While your doing this job you could easily replace the final drive
dampers, 5 required (AKA cush drive rubbers), the rubbers need replacing if
you can turn the sprocket a liitle bit without moving the wheel.
Rear wheel bearings.
- Check the rear wheel for play or remove the bearing carrier and turn the
inner race of the bearing with you finger, if it feels notchy or gritty then
the bearing should be replaced.
- Left hand bearing: Double roller bearing made up of two Koyo 6908LU,
ID:40mm, OD:62mm, W:12mm, ball bearing with one rubber seal (two required).
- Right hand bearing: Needle roller bearing with no inner ring and one
rubber seal, a seperate independant rubber dust seal (50x62x5) is required
to fully seal the bearing.
OE: NTN OU, 8Q-NK 50x62x25-1
NK 50/25, ID:50mm, OD:62mm, W:25mm.
- Ensure bearings are greased before installation (they usually are pre-greased).
- Remove rear wheel and rear sprocket drive flange as described in previous section.
- The final drive damper driven flange (the thing behind the drive flange)
is held in place on splines which might be slightly seized, tap it off but
be carefull as it is very very easy to break.
- Remove the axle with brake disc, a part of the axle acts as a beaing
race, be extremely carefull not to damage or contaminate it. Clean the axle
and then measure the OD of the needle bearing race using a micrometer. Honda
dont give service limits but I would guess that if it measures less than
49.990mm you might have a problem.
- Remove the large 75mm external circlip on the right hand side of the
- Remove the guard plate.
- Remove the bearing carrier.
- Remove the dust seal for the needle bearing.
- Remove the circlips that holds the bearings in place.
- The bearing housing is made of light alloy and is very easy to break
by tapping or forcing.
- Use a screw type bearing puller to pull out the 40mm shaft ball
bearings, or if you don't have one of these you could use a 50mm OD(or
slightly less) pipe and a threaded rod and screw out the bearings or you
you could tap out the bearings (bearings are not re-useable
after being tapped like this)(hard tapping might crack bearing housing).
- Romove the inner dust seal of the needle bearing.
- Remove the needle bearing by using a screw type bearing puller or
you could use a 56mm OD pipe with a threaded rod etc. and screw out the
bearing, or you could tap out the bearing with the pipe but that's risky.
- Drive (by screwing) in the new bearing with the appropriate bearing
driver, or with the pipes, or I used a 46mm socket and a M16 threaded rod and
a very very large washer with a 16mm hole in it.
- Replace circlips, install dust seal.
- Install bearing carrier into swingarm followed by the guard plate and fit
the 75mm circlip.
- Clean and grease splines on spindle and flange (molygrease or copper grease).
- Re-assemble, tighten 35mm lock nut to 160 Nm, rear wheel nut to 120 Nm and
bearing carrier pinch bolt to 75 Nm.