Engine removal / installation.

The egine is mounted to the frame at four points.

• Front upper mount: Four M8 bolts and a bracket secure the front
  cylinder head to the frame, all these bolts should be tightened to 23Nm.
• Front lower mount: One long bolt secures the engine to the frame
  down tubes, this nut and bolt should be tightened to 40Nm.
• Rear upper Mount: This consists of one long bolt with nut, an adjuster
  bolt and an adjuster bolt lock nut. When removing the engine the adjuster
  bolt should be screwed all the way out otherwise the rear cylinder rocker cover
  wont fit between the frame. When installing the engine, the long bolt should be
  installed to ensure engine alignment, then the adjuster bolt should be screwed
  in until it contacts the engine and then tightened to 11Nm. The adjuster bolt
  lock nut should then be tightened to 55Nm. The long bolt and nut should then
  be tightened to 40Nm.
• Rear lower mount (swing arm pivot): This consists of a long bolt and nut,
  an adjuster bolt and an adjuster bolt lock nut. A special tool is required for the
  lock nut. The long bolt, that takes an allen key, slots into the adjuster bolt
  so when you turn the long bolt you are also turning the adjuster bolt.
  When removing the engine you should remove the nut off the long bolt, then loosen
  the lock nut, then screw out the adjuster bolt. The long bolt holds the swing
  arm in place, if you remove this bolt the swing arm will move out of alignment
  with the frame which will make reinstallation of the the bolt very difficult.
  Use a rod to tap out the long bolt, only remove it far engough to clear the
  engine but still holding the swing arm, Pull the rod you used out until it
  clears the engine but still holds the swing arm.
  When istalling the engine insert the long bolt first, tap the long bolt into
  the adjuster bolt and then tighten the adjuster bolt to 15Nm. Install and
  tighten the lock nut to 65Nm. Fit the nut to the long bolt and tighten to 65Nm.

Engine removal.

1. Drain engine oil (This is not absolutely necessary).
2. Drain cooling system.
   Note: Remove the lowest bolt on water pump cover and then remove radiator filler cap.
3. Place bike on center stand.
4. Remove fuel tank, air box and carbs.
5. Remove the two coolant pipes from the cylinder heads.
6. Remove radiator.
7. Unplug the 3 core wire from the generator and the 2 core wire from the neutral switch/oil pressure switch.
   Note: Connector blocks are near the cooling system expansion tank.
8. Disconnect the positive and the negative wires to the starter motor.
9. Disconnect the 4-core wire from the pulse rotor (Wire exits the crankcase near the cam oil feed pipe).
10. Unplug the spark plug caps.
11. Remove exhaust muffler and down pipes.
12. Remove gear shift linkage.
13. Remove front sprocket cover
    Remove the chain gaurd.
    Slacken the chain and remove it from the rear sprocket
    Remove the front sprocket.
    Pull the excess chain slack towards the front sprocket shaft.
14. Place strips of heavy cloth across the tops and down the sides of the rocker cover, and tape into place.
15. Place trolley jack under engine.
    Note: Avoid putting the jack under the oil filter or the water pump.
16. Attach a hoist or strap to the frame to lift the front wheel off the ground by 20-25 cm.
17. Remove the two M8 bolts and the bracket that secure the front cylinder head to the frame.
18. Remove the front engine mount bolt and two spacers.
    Note: Make a note of which spacer goes on the right and which on the left.
    Note: Sometimes this bolt is seized and may require cutting off.
19. Remove rear upper engine mounting nut and bolt,
    Loosen the adjuster bolt lock nut, remove the adjuster bolt.
20. Remove swing arm pivot bolt nut, loosen the lock nut with the special tool, screw out the adjuster bolt 4-5 turns. Use a rod to tap out the long bolt but keep the swing arm aligned.
21. Angle the engine so that the top of the engine is moved to the rear and then let the jack down and remove the engine.
    Note: Do not rest the engine on the oil filter or water pump.
22. Place engine on your engine stand.
    Removing the water pump cover and it's metal pipe will allow you to mount the engine using the lower bolt hole on the engine.

Engine installation

1. Use hoist to lift front wheel 20-25 cm off the ground.
2. Place heavy clothe over the tops and down the sides of the rocker covers, and tape in place.
3. Place engine on trolley jack, and position under frame.
4. Pull all the chain up towards the engine and place it around the gear change shaft and the front sprocket shaft.
5. Angle the engine so that the top of the engine moves rear-wards and then jack up.
6. Install Front mounting bolt, spacers and nut but don't tighten it yet.
7. Install rear upper mounting bolt and nut but don't tighten it yet.
8. Install swing arm pivot bolt and nut but don't tighten yet (If the swing arm has moved out of alignment then
   you will have to move it to install the bolt.
9. Tighten the front engine mount bolt/nut to 40Nm.
10. Tighten the swing arm pivot bolt adjuster to 15 Nm, then hold the adjuster steady while you tighten the lock nut to 65Nm,
    then tighten the pivot bolt/nut to 65Nm.
11. Tighten the rear upper mount adjusting bolt to 11Nm, then tighten it's lock nut to 55Nm, then tighten the mount bolt/nut to 40Nm.
12. Install the bracket and bolts that secure the front cylinder head to the frame, tighten to 23 Nm.
13. Re-connect the 3 core wire from the generator and the 2 core wire from the neutral switch/oil pressure switch.
    Note: Connector blocks are near the cooling system expansion tank.
14. Connect the positive and the negative wires to the starter motor.
15. Connect the 4-core wire from the pulse rotor (Wire exits the crankcase near the cam oil feed pipe).
16. Install chain and sprockets.
17. Install radiator, re-assemble cooling system, fill cooling system while checking for leaks.
18. Reattach spark plug caps, throttle/choke cable, carbs, airbox, fuel tank, gear shift linkage and exhaust.
19. Check engine oil level before starting.