Description:

Carpet pythons are a slender python with a distinctively broad head and slender neck growing between 4 and 7 feet in length. The colouration of the carpet python is brown with yellow spots fused to produce multiple yellow bands and stripes over the body. The shades of colour on carpets can vary greatly, the brown can be black on some specimens and the yellow can vary from dull orange to a bright, shiny yellow.

Distribution:

Carpet pythons and their sub-species naturally inhabit the forests and rain- forests of Southern Indonesia and New Guinea. They also have a vast range in Australia being found in the rain- forests, open- forests and scrub- land.

Feeding:

As hatchlings carpet pythons should be fed weekly on defrosted fuzzy mice or rat pups, as the snake grows the food size should be increased until the snake is taking large mice and eventually small to medium rats. Adult carpets can be fed once every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly.

Water:

A water bowl must be available at all times for not only drinking but also bathing; the water must be changed every day.

Vivarium:

Adult carpets are comfortable in a 24x36x24 wooden vivarium with sliding glass front doors but if it is possible to accommodate a larger vivarium then all the better. Carpet pythons are in general arboreal so height is just as important as width. Hatchling carpet pythons can be kept in a 15 inch cube vivarium with plenty of branches and greenery for security until you are confident they are feeding regularly enough to be moved up to a larger size. Ventilation is essential with these snakes as they do need spraying with water occasionally especially when shedding.

Heating:

Carpet pythons require a daytime temperature of 86F and can have a basking area up to 90F, the temperature can be dropped to 82F at night. The best form of heating is with a thermostatically controlled ceramic heat bulb at one corner of the vivarium to create warm and cool areas. It is not advisable to use heat mats with pythons as they will not create the air temperature required. If a spot bulb is used to create a basking area then it must be turned off for at least 10 hours a night so the snake has a day/night photo period. WARNING: All ceramic bulbs and spot bulbs must be guarded with fine enough mesh so the snake cannot get through.

Lighting:

No specialist lighting is required for carpet pythons although a viewing strip light or spot bulb can be use. Any lights used need to be turned off for at least 10 hours every night to give the snake a day/night photo period. If lights are left on for 24 hours a day it can stress the snake and it may show signs of aggression.

Substrate:

Beech chip is a suitable substrate as it is dust and mite free, also aspen bedding, hemp bedding and coconut bark are adequate substrates. WARNING: Do not use any damp or wet substrates as these can harbour mites and cause scale rot.

Décor:

As with all snakes a hide big enough for the snake to get completely under is essential whether it is a box, piece of wood or cork bark. Make sure there are no sharp edges or points that the snake can damage itself on. Being primarily arboreal carpet pythons require plenty of branches to climb on and sit around. Hatchling carpets like all young snakes can be nervous and it is advisable to have plenty of artificial greenery in their vivarium for them to hide in. All branches must be securely fixed in place for the safety of the snake; carpet pythons are deceptively strong and can easily dislodge or break branches.

Potential Problems:

Problems encountered with carpets can be limited as long as the vivarium and heating is adequate. One problem that can be encountered is not shedding their skin properly so it is an idea to spray the snake when its eyes blue over prior to shedding and keep a hide box lined with sphagnum moss in the vivarium at all times. Carpets, if not handled regularly, can be a little snappy so it is wise to handle your snake on a regular basis so it is used to human contact.