Feeney's Flight Files.

It's Gerard Feeney with some "uplifting" tales from everybody's favourite model zone!!

Is it just me who finds the commercially available model aircraft cleaning products absolutely useless? Having tried both the liquid and the spray-on aerosol 'foam' stuff down through the years, one has been underwhelmed and unimpressed - to put it mildly! I guess it all depends on yer definition of model cleanliness. If a 'squeaky-clean' model surface finish is the desired objective, certainly the greasy, hazy 'fog' left after using the commercial cleaners ain't too inspiring - in fact, it's crap! Sure, the commercial products will partially shove the gunk away - but, as far as 'deep cleansing' is concerned, the types I've tried have been a total failure.
So, when it comes to 'Feeney Zone' R/C model aircraft cleaning, wot do I do? Not a lot, really…

Talking Dirty!

Most 'Feeney Fliers' are film-covered, so the actual 'grunge-impregnation' suffered ain't too bad. I've always adopted the policy of simply giving my models a good paper towel-rub down between flights and at the end of flying sessions but, other than that action, I don't actually spray/bathe 'em in any cleaning fluids - apart from about every six months or so. Funnily enough, I've found that the regular rubbing action with soft kitchen towel - carried out promptly after each bit of flight fun - seems to dissuade major crap deposits forming. Using a screwdriver tip to work a rag into engine bay corners and other restricted spaces seems to 'de-gunkify' these areas reasonably too.

Rise and Shine

So, what do I do when the comprehensive half-yearly model aircraft clean up is on the cards? Well, on those occasions, I do resort to 'cleaning products' - but, not the 'aeromodelling-grade' variety. Quite simply, I rush to the kitchen sink and commandeer the available household cleaners. Personally, I use 'Jif' Cream, 'Flash' Liquid and good old 'Mr. Sheen'. A bucket of warm water is also standing by. Here's wot I actually do…

Coming Clean..

First, I ensure that the model is as clean as possible from the previous flying session. A paper towel wiping session may remove some oily spots, but it won't do much if you've not been flying for a while. Next, it's out with the Flash Liquid. This stuff is poured neat out of the bottle on the area to be cleaned, and a clean damp 'J-Cloth' spreads it all over. I give this a good rubbing, then dry it off with paper towel. When dry, a yucky haze will cover the 'cleaned' component so, although grime may be gone, the surface ain't 'crisply' clean. Next, I keep applying/spreading/ drying off the neat Flash - but only using dry paper towel.
After a few minutes of 'Flashing' in this manner, the hazy film surface will look a bit better. I've always found that areas not exposed to exhaust goo will come up sharper than those areas which are constantly 'basted'. Go over the entire model in sections in this manner then, when it all looks reasonable, have a word with Mr. Sheen!
Mr. Sheen only has his say after the basic surface has been made as smear/haze-free as possible. Spray a light but even blast over the model in 'sections' again. A new very dry 'yellow' duster or paper towel is used to buff the furniture-polished areas. Don't spray on too much Mr. Sheen or you'll have a tedious job 'cutting back' to that hoped-for shine!
And what of the Jif Cream? This can be used diluted in water on a J-Cloth for overall model airframe cleaning. It's best suited to tackling heavily grimed finishes, but I've stopped using it because the cream is too caustic. Certainly, generally speaking, Flash Liquid is my preferred choice. (The Jif Cream would be better suited to grimy 'fabric' coverings. An old toothbrush is useful for scrubbing dirt out of the weave.)

A Shining Example?

So, does the model now gleam like the proverbial new pin? Not really, but it does look a damn sight better than after being treated with the model-specific cleaners! Naturally, if you follow this cleaning rigmarole regularly (say every month), the basic grime levels will remain low so, hopefully, the cleaning process will have maximum benefit. I've always used this model airframe cleaning ritual on the eve of air shows with adequate results.

Spirit Level

Let's not forget methylated spirit as a potential model cleaning substance either. I had, in fact, tried this stuff briefly in the past but I was so unimpressed with the results that I kinda ignored it after that! I have to admit, I didn't give it a fair trial initially, so I tried it again on 'Calypso' recently in a more comprehensive manner. Did I still get 'rubbed up' the wrong way? Well, the outcome was so-so…

High Spirits?

I just applied the meths neat out of the bottle and kept rubbing it away again with paper towel. Certainly, the meths did dislodge some built-up grime better than the household cleaners - but again the problem seemed to be at the 'post-rub-down' stage. Basically, the Solarfilm ended up looking hazy and scuffed. Whether this was due to the paper towel rubbing action or the meths itself, I ain't sure - but the overall effect was/is less than satisfying.
So, one is left with a '50/50' result here. From a distance, my Calypso looks quite clean, but up close the buffing routine has left the film semi-dull. I shall try meths again for stubborn grime removal - and I'll try different wiping cloths - but I will still remain true to the 'household' cleaning method just advocated for overall model airframe 'de-filthing'!
I must say, however, meths is good for removing smudges and epoxy stains (both cured and 'going off') from new film-covered airframes. So, despite its nasty niff, I shall use it extensively in this area in future.

Talking Crap!

Personally speaking, the task of cleaning model aircraft airframes in a 100% satisfactory manner remains an unattained goal. The methods discussed work equal to or better than 'specialist' cleaners for me, but I remain unconvinced that any product can/will cut back to a clean dry scuff-free shine - which is wot's needed. If any readers have revolutionary model aircraft cleaning ideas, please let me know.

"Web" of Intrigue

Francis O' Hara from County Mayo is one of the more 'radio-active' model aircraft flying graduates to come out of the Feeney Zone in recent years. Francis started aeromodelling in 1996 with a 'Hi-Boy' and quickly gained his 'wings'. Nowadays, he's putting a 'Lo-Boy' through its paces when his amateur competitive cycle racing doesn't get in the way. Francis has also tried his hand at designing his own R/C models just lately - a most commendable activity in this day and age of the mass-produced ARTF 'Yawn Box'. There are, in fact, a couple of O'Hara ODs currently on the boil, but Francis' very first OD creation has actually already flown - after a slightly 'testy' test-out session…

Web Design

The 'Web' is a radical-looking 48"-span low-wing sport/aerobatic ship, which seems to be bizarre combination of a T-tail sailplane, crossed with a 'Gee Bee' racer and a Klingon Battle Cruiser! The all built-up airframe structure features conventional partially-sheeted framework flying surfaces, with a semi-sheeted box-section fuselage. No one can accuse the airframe configuration of being run-of-the-mill - that's for sure! An inverted O.S. 25FP powers the Web, and its Solarfilmed airframe is guided around the wide blue wotsit by 'full-house' Sanwa radio gear.

Spinning Webs...

The 'test-fright' sessions over in County Mayo were slightly fraught affairs - both ROG and hand-launching attempts saw some serious screwing about. In other words, the model wanted desperately to get back to earth even before it left the firm-terra! It chose to follow this course in a 'wun-wing-low' attitude. No serious damage ensued one is happy to report; but obviously a calm, seasoned, and highly professional model flier was required to sort the thing out. Unfortunately, no such individual existed, so Francis had to call on me instead!

Web Sight..

One must admit one was initially taken aback by the model's 'striking' appearance in the flesh! However, basically, the airframe layout is quite well-balanced, so it should have flown without too much trouble. After only a brief 'hands-on' session, I immediately became aware of a worrying tail-heavy tendency; this, combined with a slight wing warp, sure wouldn't be conducive to fuss-free first flight fun! Additional detail points needed sorting, mainly some cosmetic covering repairs, but overall I was quietly confident that it would fly. Nevertheless, one's Valium/Viagra prescription was renewed in advance of the refurbished model's test-fright - nowadays, this medication is the only thing that keeps my spirits up…

Spider to Mars!

It was a hot, heavy, almost flat-calm summer evening when one ventured into one's 'field of aeromodelling' to try to get the Web up where it really did belong. I was feeling distinctly limp-wristed at the time and, perhaps, it would have been wiser to wait - but the weather was just too good to miss. Another factor also made me less than confident - 'Marvellous Michael, the hand-launcher's friend' was AWOL, so a solo low-wing fling was on the cards. Could one 'get it up' on one's own? Would it stay up for long? Would it be controllable while it was up? Time to find out…
That split-second after a new model's hand-launch always tends to have one in suspenders (or is that just me?) - will it fall or will it fly? Francis' Web certainly flew - and very well at that! The model just sailed away, climbing quite steadily into the sunny sky. There was a strongish tendency to roll to one side, however this was easily controllable - but more slight aileron had to be held over on the joystick in addition to the deflected trim lever. Apart from that, the model handled very nicely, and the responses proved quite crisp - so much so that one was already twiddling one's knobs probably too energetically at such an early stage in the flight envelope. It sure looped and rolled no bother - and the slow speed handling seemed reasonable too.
The landing was fairly fuss-free. There was a tendency to loose pitch 'bite' with the engine cut, but a bit of airframe tweaking would soon fix that. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the Web's performance - and I was gratified that I'd only consumed three bottles of medication during the session - a very favourable sign!!!

Plans to Go?

What this experience does illustrate is the enormous 'kick' factor that's available from 'rolling your own' flying model aircraft (of any sort). Far too few aeromodellers try designing themselves, but they really should as, when you get it right, there's a great 'buzz' to be had. Of course, there's always the possibility of magazine publication which is a great thrill - and the little bit of cash is welcome too! So, dear readers, why don't you follow the example of people like Francis O' Hara (who is currently about to fly his Web solo) and add an extra dimension to yer model aircraft building activity? Don't know where to start? Just order Peter Miller's 'Designing Model Aircraft' book from yer friendly local model shop - and start designing now!

"Fuel-ish" Behavior?

Believe it or not, until about 1994/1995 (nineteen years or so into my aeromodelling career), I was plagued by recurring engine-running problems. This took the form of premature leaning, overheating, and cutting at various inconvenient phases of the flight envelope. Why this should have happened so frequently, I honestly don't know. Of course, I was guilty of running engines minus fuel feed line filter protection, and yes (due to model design) some tanks were a bit too low, but I still had these problems when these areas appeared to be rectified…
To add insult to injury, I used to run-in the engines in what seemed to be the prescribed manner before fitting 'em into the latest 'Flier'. I well recall getting hideously vexed on many occasions - I certainly made the comment more than once that 'rough-and-ready' modellers, who just threw their new engine into their roughly-prepared model and let rip slightly rich, got on much better than me!
Perhaps, in hindsight, that was part of the problem; many engines don't nowadays benefit from 'slobbering-rich' bench-running - at that time, when the engine 'alloy combinations' were changing, I may have been overly-careful in that department with negative results. (But, those instruction manuals always advocated a brief bench-running period if desired.)
Whatever, for literally years on end, my models displayed what I can only describe as disgusting unreliability in the engine-running department. It was virtually impossible to complete a flight - let alone a flying session - without suffering 'premature burn-out'. Aggravating, to put it politely!
In 1986, I recall being really screwed by a bad-running engine - it would just go for a few minutes then start cutting out. The only way to keep it going was to throttle back to a high idle! This was with an O.S. 25FSR; I had exactly the same problem with an Irvine 61 a year later! At this point, I had seriously considered giving up glow-fuel engine-powered R/C model flying - such was my lack of confidence in the engine type. After checking all the obvious points one reads about, periodic improvements followed, but I still seemed jinxed with unreliable engine runs.

Fuel for thought?

In about 1994, I did something I'd rarely done before - I changed my brand of fuel. I switched from my usual stuff to Model Technics 'GX-5'. From that point onwards, my engine running luck seemed to change. My engines started well, ran smoothly and throttled so much better than at any time in the past. Also, amazingly, despite forgotten-about gunk build-ups in the filter, my O.S. 25FP in Calypso seems to run with gay abandon - even in climbs!
What does all this mean? Well, as far as I'm concerned, the fuel I previously used must have been partially responsible for the ongoing bitchy engine shenanigans experienced. I'm fully aware too of course that my own stupidity/shoddiness in the 'powerhouse preparation' was also a contributory factor in the misery. However, if one could take a time machine back and view my model engine/tank installations of the 'good-old days', I feel very confident that few actual basic faults could be detected.
So, dear modellists, if you're experiencing glow engine-running hell, and if you're certain all the running-in/plumbing details are correct, why not try a change of fuel? It's not often I recommend anything but, with the GX-5, I can almost endorse its use - based on my experience so far…

"Tanks" for the Advice!

I'm a great fan of the SLEC 'Maxi Tank'. They're simple to fit, have no interior 'filler/vent' pipes to worry about, and their specially moulded front face allows a snug firewall fit - assuming engine mount anchor bolts are cut back or not in the way.
Fitting the plumbing inside is easy too - so long as you cut the flexible silicone clunk tube so that the metal clunk grabs on to it with about 1/8" clearance in front of the tank rear wall. If this thin-gauge flexible tube is left overly-snug with the clunk fitted, it's possible that an air-lock may be formed during loops as the 'oomph' stretches the tube and clunk against the tank rear wall. Be careful too when screwing the assembled feed tube/tank neck bung in place - if you 'screw around' crookedly here, you'll chew up the tank front hole thread. Don't over-tighten the fitted bung assembly either - that too can strip the thread.
One aspect of the Maxi Tank design never really appealed to me - namely the two undrilled stub pipes on the front corner top/bottom face, which are drilling points for the optional 'fuel-level' silicone fuel tube connections. The main thing that bugs me here is the possibility of introducing swarf inside the tank during the drilling process. No matter how minute this debris 'fallout' might be, it would be bad news - and it would be virtually impossible to get out except with the engine suction doing the job! Never having drilled the holes myself, I may be talking bollocks here. Perhaps those who have 'become bored upfront' in this area might let me know how they got on?
(One also wonders on the practicality of a 'viewing window' to actually see the installed fuel level tubes - after all, they seem to be right behind the firewall!)

Tubular Balls!!

My unfamiliarity with the SLEC Maxi Tank fuel-level pipe came back to haunt me recently with a friend's model. After apparently sorting out his slightly constricted tank installation, and cleaning up the model, I happily passed it back to him, confident in the knowledge he'd have no problems in the engine running area.
Next time he tried flying it, he spent a frustrating period flicking to no avail. After some more 'penance' he gave up, only to discover neat fuel pouring out of the nose area. Yup, you guessed it, during the tank bay refit I'd disconnected his fuel level pipe and then I'd forgotten to re-connect it again before handing the model back! Needless to say, one was profoundly sorry and the oversight was made up for by sending the guy on some of my cherished 'Teletubbies' interactive CDs. Well, it was the least I could do…
I had another 'SLEC-up' in 1996 when, after building a Multiplex 'Eldorado' for James Lennon of the Longford Model Flying Club, I experienced terrible engine starting/running hassle. I thought the 'bad old problems' had returned, when I suddenly remembered something! Had I fitted the clunk line at all? One quick check confirmed the crucial omission and, after suitable blushes, and the required component installation, all was just dandy again.

Air Play

If such i.c. engine-power model trouble is getting you down, why not do what 'Marvellous Michael' did recently - fly a small 'toy' free-flight compressed air engine-powered creation!
Michael received this specimen as a Xmas gift, so he was most curious to see would it fly as advertised - the length of a football field. It looks like a 'shampoo bottle' fuselage with small clip-on plastic flying surfaces attached. The tiny engine starts running easily when you flick the prop; the fuselage acts as the air reservoir/'tank' after one has filled it up with air injected from the supplied pump unit.
Incredibly, the thing flew quite well in flat-calm freezing conditions - in fact, I had to negotiate an electric fence to get to its landing spot in the next field! It hand-launched very easily and 'self-corrected' for the majority of the 30-second flight. It kinda lost stability just before touchdown though. Despite our 'frozen assets', we were chuffed to know that it could perform.
However, it's doubtful that either Michael or myself will get hooked on this model type - but as a plaything, they are cute little creatures when the macho models are playing up.

Landing Approach..

Well, one is out of space for now, but I could be back with more of the same in future. Bye for the moment!

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