These socks were designed in November 2007 with the help of Barbara G. Walker's wonderful book of knitting patterns.
    I chose the lacy "Double Wing, Openwork Version" which is worked on a multiple of 16 sts. There are 4 pattern repeats
    around the ankle.  They are knit in the round.  I liked the way the pattern caused the stripes to ripple gently, while the
    "wings" looked intricate, but were quite easy. 

    The Regia 4-ply sock yarn (75% wool, 25% nylon) is one of my favorites. The colors reminded me of striped blue agate, or petrified wood.
    It has held up wonderfully to 3 years of frequent use & washing on the wool cycle in the machine.

    When I reviewed my notes & wrote out this pattern for my socks, (Oct. 2010),
    I realized that they are almost the same (except for minor details) as Cookie A.'s Monkey Socks.
    http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTmonkey.html
    I was surprised & encouraged to see that I was on the same wavelength as someone as creative as Cookie A.! 
   
    I wrote out my pattern notes here, but refer to Cookie A.'s pattern if you need more details or find mine confusing.

    I did a crochet edging on the top of the sock, after they were finished, and omitted the ribbing at the start.
    (I just started in with the lacy Double Wing pattern after casting on 64 sts.)
   
    Materials: 
    4 double-pointed needles, size 2.5mm
    100 gms of self-striping sock yarn, 75% wool, 25% nylon.  (I used about 85 gms total for both socks.)
    I used Regia Design Line - Kaffe Fassett, #4251
     Tapestry needle

    Size:
    Woman's Medium, 8 inches around ankle.

    Gauge:
    32 sts/46 rows = 4 inches

    Lace Pattern: 
    "Double-Wing, Openwork Version" from A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker,
     p. 142, modified for knitting in the round.

    Cast on 64 sts loosely.

    Round 1:  K all sts.

    Round 2: *P4, k8, p4, rep from * to end.

    Round 3: *P3, k2tog, k3, yo twice, k3, ssk, p3, rep from * to end.

    Round 4: *P3, k4, k into front & back of double yo, k4, p3, rep from * to end.

    Round 5: *P2, k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk, p2, rep from * to end.

    Round 6: *P2, k12, p2, rep from * to end.

    Round 7: *P1, k2tog, k3, yo, k4, yo, k3, ssk, p1, rep from * to end.

    Round 8: *P1, k14, p1, rep from * to end.

    Round 9: *K2tog, k3, yo, k6, yo, k3, ssk, rep from * to end.

    Round 10: K all sts.
  
     Repeat Rounds 1 thru 10 for the pattern.

    (Cookie's version has an extra 11th round of "K all sts" but Barbara Walker's doesn't.)

    Repeat the pattern 8 times, then divide for the heel flap.  Length was 7 inches to the heel flap for me.

    Divide the stitches in half and arrange them so that 2 pattern repeats (32 sts) are evenly placed on each side.
    Place 32 sts on a holder.

    The Heel flap will be worked back and forth on 2 needles on the other 32-stitch section.

    Heel flap stitch that I prefer:
    - It gives a dimpled effect, instead of a ribbed effect.
    Row 1: *sl 1, k1, repeating from * across the row.
    Row 2:  sl 1, then purl the rest of the row.
    Row 3:  sl 1, then *sl 1, k1,  repeating from * across the row.
    Row 4:  sl 1, then purl the rest of the row.
    Repeat these 4 rows until you have about 2.5 inches of heel flap, ending with a wrong side row.

    Maintaining the Heel flap stitch as above, shape the heel decreases *:
    (sl 1, k 1) X 9, k2tog, k1, turn.
    sl 1, p 5, p2tog, p1, turn.
    (sl 1, k 1) X 3, sl 1, k2tog, k1, turn.
    sl 1, p 7, p2tog, p1, turn.
    (sl 1, k1) X 4, sl 1, k2tog, k1, turn.
    sl 1, p 9, p2tog, p1, turn.
    (sl 1, k 1) X 5, sl 1, k2tog, k1, turn...
    Continue in this manner, ending with a wrong side row, when there is one unused st at the end of the wrong side row.
    (*Note - I find that continuing the heel flap stitch adds strength in this area, but it is optional.    You could simply slip the
    1st st of every row and either knit or purl across to the decreases.)

    Turn and knit across, slipping the last (unused st). - This is how I handle things if the decreases
    don't come out evenly and I have an spare heel flap st on each end. 

    I may have made this over-complicated, but it's how I always do my socks.  Cookie's way will work just fine too.

    Gussett:
    Pick up desired number of sts along the edge of the heel flap - I picked up 16 sts. (needle 1)
    Work across the top 32sts in the Double Wing pattern.   (needle 2)
    Pick up the same number of sts along the other edge of the heel flap (ie. 16). (needle 3)
    Knit exactly half of the sts from the heel flap onto needle 3. (I think there should be 10, if I remember correctly.)
    The other 10 sts from the heel flap should be together with the 16 sts you picked up on needle 1. (~26 sts on needles 1 & 3).

    Even Round: Knit one round even.
    Decrease Round: Knit to the last 3 sts of needle 1 and k2tog, k1.  Work in pattern across needle 2.  K1, ssk at beg of needle 3, k to end.
    Repeat these 2 rounds until 18 sts are on needles 1 and 3, but 32 on needle 2.  (68 sts total.)
    (Usually you would decrease until the sts on needle 1 + needle 3 = needle 2.  But I wanted the 4 extra sts
    on the base of the foot, for extra room - and will get rid of them just before the toe shaping.)

    I continued to work the Double Wing patt on needle 2, but even stockinette st on needles 1 and 3.
   
    I started the toe shaping after I had a total of 15 Double Wing patt repeats, from the cast-on edge.
    I wear a USA shoe size of 8, so you may want to start your toe sooner than mine.

     Toe Shaping Set-up (to bring 68 stitches down to 64):
    Knit to the last 3 sts of needle 1 and k2tog, k1.  Work in pattern across needle 2.  K1, ssk at beg of needle 3, k to end. (66 sts)
    Knit 1 round even.
    Knit to the last 3 sts of needle 1 and k2tog, k1.  Work in pattern across needle 2.  K1, ssk at beg of needle 3, k to end. (64 sts)
    Knit 1 round even.

    Now that the # of sts on needle 1 (16) plus those on needle 3 (16) = the # of sts on needle 2 (32), then you
    can begin Toe Shaping--

    Decrease Round: Knit to the last 3 sts of needle 1, then k2tog, k1.  Then on needle 2: k1, ssk, work patt across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.   
    Then on needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to the end.
    Even Round: Work one round even, knitting on needles 1 & 3 and maintaining patt on needle 2. 
    Repeat these 2 rounds until you are left with 28 sts total. 

    Then work decreases on every round (skipping the round of even knitting) until you have a total of 20 sts.
    Knit across the 5 sts on needle 1. You will have 2 needles, each with 10 sts.

    Graft the toe with kitchener stitch.

   

    CROCHET EDGING ON THE TOP OF SOCK:

    This is from a "mini-edition" booklet excerpted from "Crochet Edgings & Trims" by Susan Smith.
    (It came free with an issue of Knit Today magazine, a UK publication).

    "BLOCK EDGE" (USA terms)

     Hook size = probably 2.5mm or as desired.. - Whatever "feels right".
     Make sure the edge is not too tight and has some "give" in it.

     Work Row 1 directly into the item to be edged, with the right side facing you.
     Row 1: ch 1, 1 sc into each st to end, turn.
     Row 2: as row 1.
     Row 3: ch 4, *skip 3 sts, make 1 trc (treble crochet which begins with 2 wraps around hook) in the next st,
                           ch 3, make 4 dc around the stem of the trc just worked, rep from * to end.
     Fasten off.