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No. 1, Long
Mile
Road, Dublin 12, Ireland.
Tel : 00353 1 456
6222
Fax : 00353 1 456
8077
Bikeworld's
Guide
Welcome to the extensive Bikeworld's guide to literally everything you need to
know about biking. Whether you're starting out down the two-wheel road for the
first time or even if you're a seasoned biker, we've packed our guide full of
practical hints and advice to make your biking life safe, fun and
cost-effective.
Rider Licensing in Ireland
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Motorcycle licences in Ireland are divided into two categories :
M - Engine Capacity upto 49c.c. | Minimum Age 16 years
A1 - Engine Capacity 51 c.c. to 125 c.c. | Minimum Age 16 years
A - Engine Capacity greater than 125 c.c. | Minimum Age 18 years
New Regulations
Since December 15th 1999 (S.I. No. 352 of 1999), there have been
significant changes regarding Category A (motorcycles over 125 c.c.)
motorcycle licences. All persons granted first time Category A Licences
after 15th December 1999 will be restricted to riding motorcycles not
exceeding 25kW (33bhp) engine power for the duration of all Category A
Provisional Licences granted to them and for the first 2 years after
taking out a full licence in Category A.
Almost all motorcycles can be restricted to 25kW (33bhp) by a
restrictor installed and certified by us. |
The Motorcycle Riding Test in Ireland
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| The Department of the Environment has overall responsibility for driver
licensing but licences are issued by the principal local authorities as
licensing authorities. There are, in all, 29 licensing authorities.
Driving licences are issued for periods of one, three or ten years at a
cost of EU 5, EU 15 and EU 25 respectively. Provisional licences, which are
valid for two years and cost EU 15 permit novice drivers to learn to drive
on public roads. The test fee is EU 38 There are currently 1.75 million
holders of driving licences of which 330,000 are provisional licence
holders. {Prices and statistics Oct 2003}
Driving tests are designed to establish whether applicants
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Know the Rules of the Road
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Have the knowledge and skill to drive
competently in accordance with those rules
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Drive with due regard for the safety and
convenience of other road users
Things You Should Remember When You Go To Do Your Test
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Study the Rules of the Road
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Seek the advice of a good driving instructor
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Practise driving as much as possible on all
types of roads and in all types of traffic situations, including driving
at night;
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Build up your driving experience and
confidence before applying for your test.
Make sure to avoid
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Unnecessarily obstructing traffic or causing
annoyance to other road users;
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Practising on driving test routes as
congestion on these routes causes inconvenience to residents and test
applicants alike.
For further information on Driving Tests in Ireland, contact Driver
Control (Driving Test) Section, Department of the Environment and Local
Government, Government Building, Ballina, Co. Mayo. Tel. +353 96 70677;
Fax: +353 96 70680. |
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Helmets
When riding a motorcycle on the road the law states that you must wear a
safety helmet. All helmets sold in Ireland are tested by the British
Standards Institute to BS6658 and should carry a kitemark. Testing is done
to 2 levels; type A and type B. Type A is a higher standard and should
mean the helmet is safer. Helmets are generally made from three basic
materials; Polycarbonate, Glass Fibre and Kevlar. |
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Polycarbonate helmets are usually the cheapest type and have the shortest
life. They are lighter than Glass Fibre but cannot be painted, cleaned
with solvents or have stickers affixed. Glass Fibre will last longer than
polycarbonate and is easier to clean, though it is heavier. Glass fibre
helmets can also be painted by specialist painters to personalise your
helmet. Kevlar is an extremely tough material which is used as a composite
with other materials. This type of helmet will be the most expensive but
combines great strength with low weight. When buying a helmet the most
important thing is to try it on. No two people have the same head shape
and all helmet designs vary, so it is important to try out as many
different makes as possible. A good fit is not just important for
protection but also reduces wind noise which can damage your hearing. It's
also a good idea to wear earplugs. Check that the visor offers enough all
round visibility and make sure you can operate any air vents with gloves
on. Finally consider the weight. If you're going to do a lot of distance
riding, the lighter the helmet, the better. |
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Leathers
Leather is the most popular protective clothing for motorcyclists. There
are 3 basic types of leather clothing; one piece suits, two piece suits
and separate jackets and trousers. One piece suits tend to be a close fit
so offer a high level of windproofing and reduced wind resistance. The
disadvantages are that they can be expensive to buy and can restrict
movement. Two piece suits are a zip together jacket and trouser
combination. Being able to zip the items together gives good draught
proofing and, of course, you can wear them separately. |
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Separate jacket and trousers can be the least expensive option and gives
you access to the widest range of styles, sizes and prices. Not all
jackets and trousers can be zipped together so it is worth checking.
Leather clothing is generally enhanced by padding and/or armour for
additional protection. Check that any padding/armour is CE-approved (the
European standard for safety wear) as this should offer greater protection
in an accident. Make sure any armour is well secured and fits comfortably.
Examine stitching on leathers. Double stitching is far more effective than
single and the quality of stitching is a good indicator of overall quality
of the garment. Also check the number of panels stitched together to make
the clothing. Since stitching is weak (compared to leather) the more
stitching there is, the more chance there is of the garment failing under
duress. Check that there is sufficient ventilation to keep cool in hot
weather but without compromising protection. Ensure all fastenings give a
close fit particularly at wrists and ankles. If they pull up easily then
they will do the same in a spill reducing protection. Also be aware that
metal fastenings can get hot if you slide along the road, leading to
burns. Nylon is better. Finally, try them on. This is the only sure fire
way of making sure they fit and are comfortable, but remember, leather
does stretch slightly. If you can't find leathers to fit you then there
are made-to-measure companies who will tailor a set of leathers for you,
often at a minimal cost above 'off the peg' clothing. |
Man-Made Fabrics
Whilst leather is the most popular type of clothing man-made fabrics are
gaining in popularity. Leather is only showerproof and due to the close
fit required you may not be able to wear extra layers of clothing to keep
warm in cold weather. Both of these problems can be overcome with man-made
garments which are designed to fit over your normal clothing. This type of
garment consists of an outer fabric with a thermal lining (that may be
removable) which may also have a waterproof membrane incorporated. The
most common outer fabric available is Cordura, an extremely durable and
strong fabric with high abrasion resistance. |
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Thermal liners are designed to provide insulation in cold weather but at a
minimal use of space to cut down on bulk which would restrict movement.
Liners are often removable so the garment can be used all year round. To
provide waterproofing a membrane can be located between the outer fabric
and the thermal liner. The best type of membrane is Gore-tex which
provides 100% waterproofing with 100% breathability, keeping you dry and
comfortable, it is also windproof. As with leather, man-made garments
often have additional protection in the form of padding or armour. Again
make sure the protection is secure and comfortable before you buy. |
Boots
The vast majority of boots are made of leather due to its strength,
flexibility and weather resistance. Though many now incorporate man-made
elements such as Kevlar for protection and Lorica for lightness, boots
fall into two basic categories; race boots and all-weather boots. Race
boots are lightweight whilst offering good protection and will have a
minimal degree of weather protection.All-weather boots (sometimes called
winter boots) are designed for warmth, weather protection whilst retaining
impact protection. |
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The
type of boot you buy is largely dictated by the type of riding you do, but
there are certain things to take into account. Firstly, try them on! Make
sure you can do up the zips comfortably and that they fit with your
trousers on! Try them out sat on a bike. This is the only way to ensure
they are comfortable when riding. Make sure the sole is fairly stiff (this
is usually achieved with a steel plate or shank) to provide protection but
not so stiff you can't walk in them. |
Gloves
Gloves fall into two basic categories; summer and winter. If you only want
to buy one pair of gloves you need to decide when you will do most of your
riding. Many riders have 2 or even 3 pairs of gloves to suit the weather
conditions. Summer gloves are generally leather with no lining. Levels of
protection vary from nothing but a single thickness of leather to double
leather with moulded Kevlar. Things to look out for are:- |
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Double layers of leather on the palm for extra protection.
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Double stitching in key areas such as the palm and base of the thumb.
As
with all clothing the more protection the better. Winter gloves are also
generally leather but are much bulkier than summer gloves due to thermal
liners and in many cases waterproof membranes. Thermal lining is a must
for winter and since leather is not waterproof a waterproof membrane is
the only way you can achieve dry hands. As with summer gloves look out for
double leather in key areas and double stitching. Another item to watch
for on winter gloves is stitching at the fingertips; the less the better
as this will let in the cold and this is the first part of your hands to
suffer. Try them on with your jacket on before you buy. Make sure you can
move all your fingers easily and that the fastenings all give a close fit
near wrists and sleeves. The latter will ensure protection in a crash and
keep the weather out. |
Waterproofs and Thermals
Since
leather is neither warm nor waterproof you will require additional
clothing in cold or wet conditions if you have purchased leather clothing.
For warmth you can buy thermal underwear which is available from most
accessory stores, in addition you can buy glove and boot liners to give
additional warmth. The lower face and neck are very exposed in cold
weather and some form of protection is essential. Many riders use a scarf
or balaclava but the specialised chin and neck protectors made from
Neoprene are ideal. These give total wind block and provide insulation
keeping you warm. |
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If
warmth is particularly important to you there are electrically heated
garments available. Waterproofs are generally one piece suits designed to
be worn over leathers, so are fairly loose fitting. Make sure the
manufacturer says they are waterproof as opposed to showerproof. Make sure
the waterproofs can be folded to a size where they can be carried when you
are riding. Ensure wrist and ankle fastenings are secure and will fasten
easily over gloves and boots. The collar should be high enough to give
some neck protection and the front fastening must have a protective
over-flap. Studs are generally better than velcro which is fine when new
but deteriorates over time. Any studs should be rubberised to prevent tank
scratching. Finally, the less stitching the better, as this will always be
a weak point where water can get it. |
Motorcycles:
Motorcycles
come in many different types and sizes, which can make choosing the right one
for you extremely confusing. If you choose the wrong one for you and your needs,
you will not only be making an expensive mistake but you will also jeopardise
your enjoyment of motorcycling. In this section there is some simple advice of
what to consider. The basic type of machine and some examples of machines in the
various categories. The two basic considerations are budget and type of machine.
Budget:
- Firstly you will need to determine how much you want to spend, either in cash
or as a monthly payment through finance.
Next
comes insurance. Where you live, your age and the type of bike will lead to huge
variations in insurance costs, so check this out before committing yourself.
Running
costs may be important to you. What sort of fuel consumption suits your pocket,
how much are tyres, spares and servicing for the bike? Normally, the higher the
performance the higher the running costs.
Don't
forget to allow for buying clothing, helmet, boots and gloves. These can be
expensive (but don't compromise on protection and comfort). Type of machine: -
Firstly, what size bike does your licence allow you to ride? Next, and equally
important, what sort of riding will you be doing? A sports bike is unlikely to
be suited to inner city commuting. Sit on the machine in a showroom and make
sure you feel comfortable in a riding position. Make sure your feet touch the
ground and the controls are easy to use. If you're going to have a pillion
passenger take them with you to make sure they can be comfortable and hold on to
the bike easily. This next section covers the various types of motorcycles and
lists some by models from various manufacturers for you to consider.
Mopeds &
scooters
A moped is
a motorcycle with an engine size of 50cc or lower and is restricted to a top
speed of 30mph. They can be ridden without L-plates if you hold a full car,
motorcycle or moped licence. Mopeds now come in a large variety of styles and
designs, and their cost can vary considerably from one model to another. Mopeds
are suitable for short distances particularly in inner city or urban areas.
Transmission is always fully automatic; i.e. there are no gears.
Most manufacturers produce scooters with 125cc engines, but some also
produce larger scooters with 500cc engines. As with mopeds there is a large
range of styles and models to choose from. Transmission is generally fully
automatic and these machines are most suitable for short journeys in urban
areas, with larger engine models performance can be very sporty.
Commuters
This
terms is generally used for machines deemed most suitable for commuting to
and from work. Performance will usually be good without being blisteringly
fast. If most of your riding is commuting but you also ride at weekends,
one of these bikes may well be the right choice for you. Engine size is
either 500cc or 600cc and transmission is manual. |
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Most
commuters come in a faired or unfaired version. Faired machines offer
better weather and wind protection for the rider (at a price premium) but
many riders prefer the looks of unfaired machines |
Dual
Purpose
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Dual
purpose machines are sometimes referred to as Paris Dakar bikes, as they
have the style of machines used in the desert rallies. These machines
combine the style of off-road motorcycles with the characteristics of road
machines, which makes these bikes popular with people who want a commuter
that can also be ridden off-road on dirt tracks. |
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The
high seat and wide handlebars gives excellent visibility and easy handling
in town and heavy traffic. However, this makes them unsuitable for the
smaller rider.Engines are usually single or twin cylinders, which should
lead to lower maintenance costs. |
Custom
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Custom bikes are instantly recognisable by their unique styling of low
seat height, relaxed riding position and lots of chrome! These machines
are most suitable for riders looking for style and enjoyment on the open
road. Engine sizes vary from 125cc up to 1500cc and this largely dictates
their suitability for distances. |
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There
is large scope for personalising custom machines via the purchase of
accessories from either the manufacturer or after-market suppliers, which
can be purchased from most dealers. Due to the low seat height and low
centre of gravity these bikes are often popular with the vertically
challenged. |
Sports
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Sports bikes are machines designed with speed and handling first and
foremost. Styling is based around race bikes and generally means a full
fairing and a seating position that is leant forward. The majority of
bikes in this category will have an engine of 600cc + and four cylinders.
Servicing costs will be higher than for single and twin-cylinder machines.
Insurance and other running costs also tend to be higher. |
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These
bikes are most popular with riders who want a quick machine that handles
well at speed. |
Tourers
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Touring machines are designed for long distance riding in maximum comfort,
but retaining good performance and handling. The minimum engine size of a
sports tourer will be 750cc, and this increases to 1200cc. Because of the
larger engine and the need for good weather protection, these bikes tend
to be large and heavy, |
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which
reduces manoeuvrability but allows for extended high speed riding. The
seating position will be relaxed and comfortable for both rider and
pillion. In addition there is often built in luggage space. |
Super
Sports
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These
machines are the closest you can come to riding a full race bike on the
road. Engine size starts at 750cc and goes up to 1000cc with either 4
cylinders or a 2 cylinder v-twin arrangement. These bikes are extremely
powerful and light and can easily catch out a less experienced rider.
Handling and performance will be to a very high level. |
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Servicing costs are generally no more than for a Sports bike but insurance
is usually higher as are the prices of spares and tyres. These categories
are a broad outline and not all bikes fit into one category or another. In
addition it is important to remember that one mans sports bike is another
mans commuter and vice versa. Also the examples are just that, examples.
There are many more bikes to choose from that may well fit your needs much
better. |
WHY BUY
NEW?
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You'll be the first rider of the bike so
there'll be no history to worry about, such as has it been thrashed, serviced,
raced or crashed.
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Full manufacturers warranty means no big
repair bills.
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Manufacturers incentives can make it
nearly as cheap as a used bike via:
o
discounts and vouchers.
o
free or subsidised insurance.
o
low rate finance.
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Buy from a main franchised dealer and
you'll be certain the bike is a full specification machine.
Why Buy
Used?
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Price
There
are so many advantages to buying a new bike as opposed to a used one that the
deciding factor has to be price. You may feel that a new machine is out of range
of your budget but weigh up the costs and you will be surprised. For a few extra
pounds a month you could well be on a brand new machine with all the peace of
mind that entails. Don't make the decision to buy used until you've fully
checked it out!
Insurance
There are 2 basic types of insurance; third party only and fully comprehensive.
Third Party
is the cheapest form of insurance and pays out to a third party if you injure
them and/or damage their property. If you damage yourself or your bike .......
tough!
Fully
comprehensive is the most expensive type of cover but also pays for repairs to
your bike following an accident (even if it's your fault). The majority of
policies have an excess amount, this is the amount you have to pay towards the
cost of repair. You also need to be aware that if you do make a claim you will
almost certainly lose your No Claims Discount, this means it is generally a bad
idea to claim where the cost of repair is less than or slightly higher than your
excess amount. Most policies only cover you to ride your bike, so don't let
anybody else take it for a spin; it could prove expensive.
Do's and
Don'ts
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Do be honest when supplying information
to the insurance company or your policy could become invalid.
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Do inform the insurance about any
modification to the bike.
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Do make sure you use all security
measures possible. Not only will it help stop your bike being nicked, it could
also save you money on the insurance cost.
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Do tell the insurer if you've had
specialised rider training, again it could give lower premiums.
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Don't admit liability if you're in an
accident, even if it seems clear cut. Once you say it was your fault it's very
difficult to change your mind.
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Don't go for the first quote. Shop around
a number of brokers to get the best deal.
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Don't just go for the cheapest policy.
Check the extra's offered such as breakdown cover, legal protection and European
cover.
Security
Your
motorcycle is a valuable investment (as well as being your pride and joy) and
needs protecting properly. Before talking about specific security products there
are a number of measures you can take to minimise the risk of theft. Don't leave
your bike parked outside your home overnight, put it in the garage. If you don't
have a garage park it at the rear of the house and use a bike cover. This at
least stops a prospective thief seeing what a shiny beautiful machine it is and
tempting him into stealing it. Don't leave your bike unattended with the engine
running or with the keys in. Do park your bike where you can see it. Don't lend
your bike to somebody you don't know well (sounds daft but it happens!). Always
use the security at your disposal. The day you don't will be the day it goes
missing.
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DISC
LOCKS: These are locks that fit through the brake disc to prevent the
wheel turning. These are small, compact and easy to use, but fairly easy
for a thief to beat. |
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CHAINS: Chains can either be used to immobilise the bike by Putting
through a wheel or secure your bike to a post or even to another machine.
The quality of chains and locks varies greatly but as a rule of thumb, the
more expensive, the better. |
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GROUND ANCHORS: These are posts concreted into the ground with a bar that
slots through your front wheel. Not very mobile security but at home it
takes some beating. |
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ALARMS:There is a great deal of variety in the bike alarm market as in the
car market, both in features and in price. If your pocket can stand it,
key features to look for are self arming (in case you forget), back up
power supply, movement sensors, mode and separate siren (louder than your
horn). |
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ALPHADOT:Alphadot is a system of security marking specifically for
motorcycles. It has two key features. Firstly, all panels and glass are
etched with a unique identity number. Secondly, there are 5 transponders
hidden on the bike that can be scanned to reveal the bikes real identity
should it be stolen. All data is registered & helps reunite a bike with
its rightful owner. |
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Apart
from these fairly standard security measures many people keep their bikes
securely locked away in a garage with an alarm fitted. Many security products
are now granted "Sold Secure" status which can often generate savings on
insurance, so check the product and confirm with your insurer prior to purchase.
Disclaimer
The above tips are provided for information only. No responsibility is
accepted by Bikeworld for incidents arising from its use.
Contact Us
M.R.T.G wish
to acknowledge Bikeworld for allowing us to use this document. The
original can be found on Bikeworlds site
http://www.bikeworld.ie
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