| O'Regan's Athenry
Mythology, History
and Stories from the 'Fields of Athenry'
Monivea: History and Heritage
The history of Monivea begins with the story of the ffrenches in the
12th Century, when their ancestor arrived in Ireland in the company of
the Anglo-Norman invader Strongbow. Strongbow married the daughter of the
King of Leinster and eventually became king himself. He rewarded his loyal
men with lands of their own, the ffrenches settling in County Wicklow.
It was not until the late 16th century that the family moved west and bought
the lands of the O'Kelly family in 1609, building onto the fortifications
of the O'Kelly castle and establishing Monivea House. The village grew
out of the dwellings of the estate's farm workers and domestic servants,
and of the merchant posts established to serve their needs.
Successive generations of the ffrenches - and their workers - worked
hard to reclaim useful land from an estate which was mainly bogland. Oliver
Cromwell came in 1650 and confiscated their lands, but once he was gone,
they bought them back again and continued the reclamation process. In 1744,
a descendant named Robert ffrench inherited the estate and set about many
improvements.
He drained bog land by ploughing, liming and seeding it, turning it
into arable land within a few years. He also set up a linen
industry on the estate. He built houses in the village to house the
weavers and laid out the broad greens for bleaching and drying the flax.
He built a school for village children. In another strategy to drain
the land, he planted trees where Monivea Wood now stands.
The ffrenchs were well respected in the county, enough so for Robert
ffrench to have represented Galway in the United Kingdom parliament between
1768 and 1776.
By the late 19th century the land was rich and productive, and another
Robert ffrench was employing the trappings of their wealth to extend his
family's high social connections, travelling overseas as a British diplomat.
Church of Ireland, Monivea
In 1759 Robert ffrench presented a memorial signed by most of the Protestant
inhabitants of the village stating that Monivea was an appropriate site
for a Chapel of Ease. This brand of ecclesiastical architecture is usually
an ancillary church more accessible to some parishioners than the main
church within the parish. They are sometimes associated with a large manor
house where they provided a convenient place of worship for the family
of the manor.
The Board of First Fruits granted Robert ffrench £292 which was
nearly 75% of the projected building cost and in January 1762 construction
work commenced. In October 1769 the Archbishop of Tuam consecrated the
church and Mr. ffrench spent £2 3s 9d on his pew. He later bought
two more pews, one for the children of the Charter School and the other
for his servants and tenants. By the late part of the 1700s a pulpit
was installed in the church with bible, prayer books and linen. The
church testifies that by this period a large Protestant community had grown
in Monivea.
The Church continued in use until 1924. In 1955 the south end of the roof
collapsed. The Dean of Tuam, J. Jackson, hired a contractor to take down
this portion of the church at the cost of £78. The stained glass
windows were removed by the Dublin firm Hogan & Co. and put into storage.
Some of the windows were used in Dugort Church, Achill, County Mayo. The
bell was given to Creggah Parish, Belfast who donated £20 to the
Parish of Athenry.
Over the last 30 years the church has degraded into a ruinous state
with lightning striking the bell tower and causing serious damage to the
building.
The Icehouse
Icehouses – buildings for storing ice – can be found all over the world,
dating from the earliest times. By the mid nineteenth century, most
country estates would have had at least one.
Until refrigeration was generally available, people lived on seasonal
fare with inevitable fluctuations in supply. Food was dried, salted,
pickled in vinegar or alcohol, smoked, parboiled, potted or kept in sugar
syrup. Greater variety was available only to the rich who had living
supplies in the dovecote, deer-park, fishpond and rabbit warren.
The wealthy supplemented that fare through the use of an icehouse, regarded
as a luxury in the eighteenth century.
In 1786 an icehouse at Inberaray, Strathclyde, was constructed in four
months and cost £25. By this time, not only were new construction
methods being used but there was also a new appreciation of the potential
for food storage offered by the icehouse as demonstrated by the architect,
John Papworth: “the icehouse forms an excellent larder for the preservation
of every kind of food liable to be injured in the heat in summer; thus
fish, game, poultry, butter, etc., may be kept for a considerable time”.
Ice was collected from natural or artificial freezing ponds on the
estate. Efforts were made to keep the freezing pond as clean and
clear as possible, sometimes posting a gamekeeper there to move twigs and
scare away birds and mammals. A head gardener and writer, Charles
MacIntosh describes filling an icehouse: “the ice should be broken with
mallets or stampers to a coarse powder and well rammed down in the well
or pit, keeping the upper surface concave and adding a little water from
time to time in order to fill up the interstices and assist the congelation
of the whole into a solid mass”.
Icehouses continues in general use until the end of the nineteenth
century. With the decline of country estates after the First
World War, icehouses increasingly fell into disuse and overgrown examples
were often rediscovered only by chance.
The icehouse in Monivea Demesne was constructed by the ffrench family
to serve the castle. The chamber reaches several metres underground
and is well insulted at the top with stone and earth, thus enabling food
to be kept cool in the hottest weather. The shelter of the surrounding
trees would also have helped to keep the temperature of the contents down.
This might explain the distance between the icehouse and the castle, which
would surely have created extra work for the castle servants.
The entrance was repaired in 2000 and a grille installed for the safety
of the public.
Source: Icehouses, Tim Buxbaum, Shire Publications
Ltd
ffrench Mausoleum
Hidden deep in Monivea Wood, this magnificent mausoleum shelters
the earthly remains of Robert Percy ffrench, the last male landlord of
Monivea Demesne and those of his daughter, Kathleen, who commissioned the
building of the mausoleum.
Born in Monivea Castle, Robert ffrench was a member of the British diplomatic
service and served as Secretary to the British Embassy in St. Petersburg
and Vienna. He married Sophia, only child of Alexander de Kindiakoff, a
Russian noble of great wealth with seven estates on the Volga River.
Robert died in Italy in 1896. Kathleen, their only child, came to
Monivea to oversee the building of the mausoleum. His body
was embalmed in Milan and remained there until the mausoleum was ready
to receive him in 1900.
Designed by Francis Persee, younger brother of Augusta Gregory, the
mausoleum is a miniature castle built of finely cut Wicklow granite. The
facade bears the coat of arms and the motto of the ffrenchs “malo mori
quam foedare” which translates as “Death before Dishonour”.
The double oak doors open onto a funerary chapel vaulted in granite
and floored in white and grey marble.
The mausoleum is reputed to contain seven types of marble, including
Connemara marble.
The chapel is lit by five fine stained glass windows made by a German
company, Mayer of Munich. The window above the altar depicts Our
Lord with two angels. Those on either side of the chapel show the
coats of arms of the ffrenchs and families related to them.
In the centre of the chapel floor before the altar is a splendid sculpture
of Robert ffrench lying in state in his robes of the Order of St John of
Jerusalem, known as the Order of Malta. It was carved by Francesco
Jerace, a renowned Italian sculptor, in fine white Carrara marble,
shipped to Ireland and brought to Monivea by horse and cart. A black
marble column stands at each corner of the effigy, supporting the vaulted
ceiling.
The altar is intricately carved from fine white marble set against
a background of black marble.
Once her father had been laid in his final resting place, Kathleen returned
to her Russian estates. After the Bolshevik revolution in 1917, Kathleen’s
lands were confiscated and she was imprisoned. She was released in
1919, having lost all her Russian wealth and fled Russia via Finland.
A passion for international travel in her blood, Kathleen settled in
Harbin, Manchuria, China, where she spent two years learning Mongolian.
She then crossed Outer Mongolia, the first non-Russian European woman to
reach the then new Republic of Tannu Tuva (established 1924) and on to
Peking, completing a round trip of over five thousand miles. She died in
Harbin 1st January 1938. Her body was brought back to Monivea, a
distance of four thousand miles.
Kathleen lies beside her father in the crypt of the mausoleum, reached
via the winding stone staircase to the immediate left of the altar.
VirginiaMoyles- Monivea Community Council
Return to Social
history contents
Home
Baile
Átha 'n Rí
|