David Blount from T-Bay, along with Californian
Joe McNulty, represented Ireland in the 1999Reef\ISA
World Big Wave Contest. The comp was held in Todos Santos,
an island 12 miles off the coast of Baja, Mexico. He
was drafted in as a replacement for Joe's brother Terence
McNulty (who could not compete due to injury). The 2
McNulty brothers are hardened veterans of countless
epic sessions at Todos and performed heroically in the
HUGE conditions off the 1998 Todos comp to place second.
Here is Dave's account of the 1999 contest.
The first I heard of this contest was in Hawaii during
the epic 1998 El Nino season. Word had filtered pretty
quickly to the North Shore that the ISA contest at Todos
had been run in huge surf, that Taylor Knox had caught
the K2 wave and that Ireland, represented by the McNulty's
had placed second, beating Hawaii, the US, Australia
et al. Having known Terence and Joe from our participation
in the worlds in Huntington in 96 I was stoked at their
success. However the reality of what they'd done didn't
hit me until nearly a year later.
The same contest was scheduled for Feb 1999, with a
2 week waiting period. It was about November when the
coach of the Irish team, Peter Cooke, approached me
about competing in it. Terence had buggered his shoulder
and a replacement was needed. I think it was more a
case of looking for volunteers than selecting from a
list!
There were a number of reasons in why I was keen to
go. First and foremost, the chance to represent your
country is always an honour and I jump at every chance
to do so. Then there is the opportunity to get out in
possibly some huge surf amongst some of the best big
wave riders in the world- sooo much you could learn
from it. Add in the factor that Todos in most circles
is considered the easiest of the big 3 (Waimea and Mavericks
completing), and that it was a La Nina year and up till
then no big swells had hit that winter
. I figured
that it would be well manageable.
Both of the last 2 myths were pretty soon put to pasture
though
.. I got a hold of the video footage of
the 1998 comp. for preparation
. 2 words, immortalised
by Miley Byrne
Holy God
. Anyone who has
watched that video without getting a hollow pit in their
stomach has never been in the ocean with sizeable pieces
of water moving.
so much for Todos being an easy big wave. The
awe at what Joe and Terence had done in 98 was now beginning
to multiply.
The second arrived later, a few days before I was due
to depart in the form of a big red coloured storm on
the FNOC WAM. A friend from California phoned me saying
it was the biggest storm since the el nino year
.
Looks like it was gonna get big. My only consolation
now was that I was probably the fittest that I'd ever
been, after spending the previous few months bike sprinting
20 miles a day, swimming 7km a week and surfing at every
available opportunity.
Threw my boards in the bag, jumped on at Dublin and
jumped out at LAX. Bumped into the French team (Che
Guevarra, Thierry Domenech and their coach Francise)
as I was getting picked up by Joe. They were heading
straight down to Mexico to get some practise in, Joe
and I were going to hang in San Clemente, as Joe was
limited in the time he could get off work.
The next 2 days were spent enjoying myself, surfing
Blacks and Upper Trestles with Joe's roommate Barnum,
ever conscious of the approaching swell. On the evening
of the second day, Barnum & I arrived back to find
Brock Little in Joe's living room. (-OhmyGodBarnumThatIsBrockLittleTheresBrockLittle-).
"Hey Brock, how's the crack?", "Hey,
you must be Dave, Hi, Hey listen, the contest is called
on for tomorrow, get your boards together, Joe'll be
back in 10 minutes". So, there we were, myself,
Joe McNulty and Brock Little, driving south through
Tijuana with the sun setting, burning everything dusty
orange, Carlos Santana providing the soundtrack, to
surf Todos, with a macking groundswell bearing down
from the NW
.. couldn't help but reflect on the
good fortune I'd had to get in such a place.
Arrived in Ensenada, a busy port\fishing town, the
place where all the competitors were staying and where
our boat was to be launched from. Spent the night in
a hotel nestled in the hustle and jive of Ensenada.
During dinner, discovered from the French coach Francise
that the surf that day's been about 10-12ft and that
Sean Collins, the SurfLine forecaster, was calling for
15-18ft for the following day. Nice, I thought, ideal,
a little bigger than I'd previously surfed, but not
survival material huge.
After dinner came the briefing from the safety crew.
The K-38 water safety crew were being employed for this
comp and did an outstanding job last year. They use
jet skis to get into the impact zone and help out anyone
who is in a bad situation. As much as I am a believer
in the mantra of that if you cant get yourself out and
back and do the business under your own steam, then
you shouldn't be out there, I gotta admit that it was
a comfort knowing that these guys were buzzing around
keeping an eye on us. Shawn from K-38 was briefing us
on how we were going to be picked up in case of needing
assistance, about how the first thing to do was to take
off your leash and ditch your board. At this point Joe
(whose 9'6 I was using in the comp.), leans over and
mutters
. "That board is worth about 600 bucks,
you aint gonna be using that rescue crew"
.
So much for the comfort of a rescue crew!
After a good nights sleep, it was a pre-dawn start,
loaded up everyone, competitors, boards, judges, media
and officials on the boat (a 60ft big game fishing boat)
and motored out the 12 miles to Todos Santos. It is
hard to tell the swell size as the islands shadow the
swell until you round them, so I was amping the whole
hour it took to get there, butterflies being multiplied
by the smell of marine diesel and the spewing of some
seasick passengers. As we rounded the tiny island and
killers (as the main break at Todos is called) came
into view, it was obvious that the swell predictions
were a bit overstated. Double-overhead waves, with possible
triple overhead sets, were unloading on the point in
sheet glass conditions. After some delibration, they
decided to push on with the contest at the buoys were
indicating that the swell was on the rise.
At this stage, with things starting to happen, all
the nerves and apprehension drain away, just want to
get wet and get a few waves! Managed to get out for
a few warm up waves before they started. Even though
it was not very big the thickness of the wave and the
open ocean speed at Todos are formidable. Poto shows
some Polynesian aloha by sharing a few with me.
Joe is out in the first heat, with Cheyne Horan, Brock
Little and Antonio Gamas of Portugal. The ocean went
through a long lull for most of the heat but it looked
as though it was Joe and Cheyne going through from my
reckoning. Next up myself, out with Elijah young of
Hawaii, Paul Paterson from Oz and Miguel Ruivo from
Portugal. The biggest set so far arrived at the heat
start and I managed to snag one. The swell had definitely
started to pulse through more consistently now. Got
caught inside on the way back out by an even bigger
one, but managed to get under it OK. On my next wave
I dropped in on someone (later found out it was Miguel),
but figured no big shakes as we'd been told that they
were not scoring drop-ins. Caught 2 more before the
hooter with the last of them being definitely bigger
than anything else I'd seen so far. Came back to the
boat pretty happy that I'd done my best.
Results started coming through, Joe'd gotten 3rd
he
was kinda bummed, me more so, I'd figured he'd definitely
progressed. He'd been watching my heat though and reckoned
Paul had won it and I was second. I was stoked beyond
words but brought back to earth when it was announced
Paul 1st, Miguel 2nd, Elijah 3rd and me 4th. Brock who'd
been up with the judges, then returned and it turned
out that they had penalised me for the drop-in, otherwise
I'd have come 2nd and progressed.
Nothing to do now, but watch the rest of the comp
The swell continued to build throughout the day but
unfortunately so too did the wind, turning a finely
groomed piste into a mogul run. A few heavy wipeouts
went down, most notably Che Guevarra of France, who
snapped his 9 footer, got held down and dragged a distance
before being picked up by a ski.
The standout surfers of the contest were Taylor Knox
and Paul Paterson who were really laying down some serious
rail turns on waves that were difficult to even make.
However, as in 1998, when 2 Brazilian darkhorses won,
this year it would also be 2 dark horses, the South
African team of Cas Collier and Ian Armstrong. They
are 2 little known rastafarians from Cape Town who'd
been taking on the heaviest that the southern ocean
could throw at them for years and were now finally getting
some recognition for it. The 2 of them consistently
snagged big, steep waves from deep. They ran out popular
winners, as underdogs usually are. (There is a profile
on them in the Surfers Journal volume 10- number5, and
is a fascinating read).
There were no takers for a free surf after the event
due to the mess the wind had made of the waves, so it
was back to the hotel in Ensenada for the presentation
dinner. The stoke and camaraderie amongst everyone was
epic, and I spent a great night drinking and carousing
with everyone involved in the contest.
Next day it was back to the old Us of A and from there
to Ireland.
Looking back now on the contest, my only regret is
that it wasn't bigger. It would've been an ideal opportunity,
with the crew that was around, to ride waves bigger
than I previously had. However the memories of the people
I met, the dusty desert of Baja, the metallic blue of
the deep water waves hitting Todos and the sound of
the massive boulders being rattled around on the bottom
as they broke, will be with me for a long time to come.
I cant finish this without giving my thanks to a number
of people, first off Joe & Terence, for the friendship
and guidance given (you gotta add barnum and the whole
San Clemente crew also), Peter Cooke for having faith
in me and T-Bay surf club for helping out with the finances
for the trip. It was an experience for which I will
be forever grateful.
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