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The first time I entered Bruxelles' dark basement was a gloomy Autumn evening, the half-deserted city streets were rain-dampened and slick with motor oil, the shops were mostly closed and shuttered, a few late-workers hurried home under umbrellas, their collars up. A newspaper seller on the corner of Suffolk Street, shuffled from foot to foot.

The zodiac mirror on the lower landing reflected John's and my attempt to look older and cooler than we were or felt as we passed beneath the pavement slabs into unknown territory. In our nervousness, the descent seemed dizzying, disorientating, though only two short flights. They stopped, abruptly, outside a toilet door.

Left and right were murky bars, pale lamps cast an uncertain light at intervals through the smoke. Rock music from a generation removed blared out from unseen speakers, smothering the noise of the packed punters whose numbers spilled over into the entryway. Pint glasses perched precariously on shoulder-high mouldings of the panelled walls, or crouched, like their owners, on the sand-coloured floor underfoot.

Long-haired, hard-bitten drinkers glanced at us in disinterest, or, it seemed, in near hostility. Somewhere in the distance, a glass toppled and smashed to the sound of raucous cheers. Motorcycle helmets piled like the trophies of some ancient, bloody conquerer filled one whole corner. But we'd come this far... Alcohol and the slight possibility of female company were too close now for us to turn tail. We took a deep breath, sucked in balls and bellies (the one for courage; the other for the look of the thing) and wound through the press to the nearest counter. A dog-faced, hump-backed barman filled our order wordlessly. We counted our change. There wasn't much; town was expensive. But we'd arrived! And we planned to stay.

 

   
 

Ann-Marie sports the style

 
     

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