V.T.O.S. 

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Introduction to Woodturning

Copyright notice.

Before making use of these files please read the copyright notice. Failure to read this notice does not exempt the user from the conditions of use.
© Brian Clifford (March 1999)

 

Chapter 1: The Basics

1.4 The basic principles

It must be noted, however, that although skill can only be acquired by practice, by ‘making shavings’ as the saying goes, it is futile practising unless the basic principles are being applied. The basic principles are comprised of four main elements:

  1. The choice of the correct tools
  2. The use of properly sharpened tools
  3. A good stance
  4. The use of correct cutting techniques

Consideration must also be given to safety. Safe working habits should become habitual and are as much part of basic principles as the four points covered above. Unsafe practices may not prevent good turning but they may cut short a turner’s career.

Much of the first part of this book is devoted to these basic principles. However, before he can practise the basic principles the prospective turner must provide himself with a certain amount of equipment. At the very minimum this will be a lathe, a grinding machine and a set of tools. He will also need somewhere to keep it and somewhere to work; usually, of course, these are the same place, namely the workshop. The question of a workshop and equipment is discussed in the next chapter and tools in the one after that.

1.5 The pleasure of woodturning

Some of the comments made above may make learning to turn seem daunting but it is not intended to put people off. Anyone, from nine to ninety, male or female, with a modicum of manual dexterity, can learn to turn successfully. Given a reasonable degree of application it will only take most beginners a few hours of practice to learn to make simple but attractive objects, which provide immense satisfaction. Many of these objects only take an hour or so to make. (Some ideas for these objects, and instructions on how to make them, will appear on this web site.)

The great pleasure, which can be derived from wood turning stems from two things. One is that, whilst very satisfying results can be obtained with relatively little experience, learning and improvement can go for the rest of a lifetime. The other source of pleasure is that hand turning brings the maker into a very close and intimate relationship with his material. Turners get to know wood as few other people can.

Chapter 3: The tools

3.1 Introduction

The range of woodturning tools on the market today is enormous. Ashley Iles, for example, produce 350 different woodturning tools. These are all standard tools made in a range of sizes in carbon steel or high-speed steel. In addition a number of manufacturers are making some highly specialised (and very expensive) tools, such as the Stewart System. Most beginners, however, will only be able to afford a limited number of standard tools so they will have to make some careful choices. My suggestions for the minimum basic set of tools are given at the end of this chapter.

But, before coming to the choice of tools the beginner needs to understand the functions of the different types and the reasons for some relatively subtle differences in shape and form. The difference between carbon steel and high-speed steel also needs to be understood.

When I started turning at the beginning of the eighties only carbon steel tools were available, but since then high speed steel turning tools have become ubiquitous. High-speed steel, which is harder than carbon steel, was originally developed to enable higher cutting speeds to be used when machining metal. Because of this high speed steel tools retain their edge longer on wood.

Nevertheless, each type of steel has its advantages and disadvantages. These are discussed later in this chapter. There are three principal types of tool: scrapers, chisels, and gouges. Gouges can be sub-divided into three further types: bowl gouges, spindle gouges, and roughing out gouges. Chisels and gouges are usually described as cutting tools, because they are designed to sever rather than break, or tear, the wood fibres. In contrast scrapers are often perceived as crude tools, which simply tear out a shaving. However, when employed with care, and the correct technique, scrapers can be used to sever the fibres and leave a good finish. It must be pointed out, too, that chisels can, on occasion, be used for scraping.

However, there is a clear distinction, which can be made between chisels and gouges on the one hand, and scrapers on the other. This concerns the attitude in which they are used. When employed in the cutting mode chisels and gouges are used with the bevel rubbing and the wood moving onto the edge of the tool (see also Chapter 6). In contrast scrapers must never be used with the bevel rubbing and the edge must be trailing. Except in very special circumstances this means that a scraper must be used with the tool pointing downwards. (See Diagram 3.1) If a chisel is used for scraping it must be held in the same attitude as a scraper, that is, pointing downwards.

Contents

Chapter 1: Learning to turn
Chapter 2: The workshop and equipment
Chapter 3: The tools
Chapter 4: Sharpening tools
Chapter 5: Safety
Chapter 6: Making the cut
Chapter 7: The effect of grain and other factors on the cut
Chapter 8: Introduction to spindle turning
Chapter 9: Spindle turning - setting up for practice
Chapter 10: Spindle turning - roughing down
Chapter 11: Spindle turning - the planing cut
Chapter 12: The 'V' cut
Chapter 13: Cutting a bead
Chapter 14: Cutting a cove
Chapter 15: Chapter 15: Spindle turning - the final cuts

Copyright notice

Before making use of these files please read the copyright notice. Failure to read this notice does not exempt the user from the conditions of use.


© Brian Clifford (March 1999)

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