Tie-in climbers and ramblers
as they grow.
Remove rose suckers and tree suckers.
Prune deciduous magnolias if necessary.
Prune June-flowering shrubs such as
Philadelphus and Weigela
after flowering.
Fast-growing hedges such as Leyland cypress should be clipped as
necessary throughout the growing season. They can get out of hand very
quickly.
Ensure newly planted trees and shrubs do not dry out. They often need
much more water than people imagine.
Take semi-ripe cuttings of shrubs such as
Choisya,
Hydrangea and
Philadelphus. Root them in pots
of gritty compost in a cold frame or even with a plastic bag tied over
them.
Clematis can be propagated by taking internodal cuttings (i.e. taking
stem sections above and below a leaf, rather than cutting the stem
immediately below a leaf joint).
Air-layering is another method of propagation that can be used for
some climbers, such as Akebia,
and some shrubs, such as Magnolia.
Pest & disease watch
Brown patches on conifers may indicate an earlier infestation by the
cypress aphids. Telltale signs include black sooty mould along the stems
and shed skin cases. Spraying earlier in the summer may have helped, but
once damage is done, conifers can take a long time to recover. Where
hedges are affected prune out brown shoots and tie in neighbouring
branches to help fill the gaps.
Thickened and curled margins on bay trees (Laurus
nobilis) are a sign of damage by the bay sucker. Scale insects can
also affect bays at this time of year.
Neat circular areas removed from the edges of rose and other leaves
are telltale signs of leaf-cutter bees at work. These fascinating
creatures are best tolerated since damage is rarely severe.
Yellow and distorted leaves on cherry laurel (Prunus
laurocerasus) indicate a powdery mildew problem.
You may notice damage to leaves of
Viburnum by viburnum beetles. The damage is not usually bad enough
to warrant treatment.