Pick the last of the remaining runner beans. Any really late and stringy ones are better composted than eaten.

Dig up outdoor tomato plants and hang them upside-down in the greenhouse to allow the fruits to ripen. Any that don’t ripen can be used green in chutneys.

Continue lifting carrots and beetroot, plus any remaining potatoes still underground in mild areas. Only store healthy, intact roots. Parsnips should be left in, as they taste better once frosted.

Sow overwintering broad beans in situ (mild regions only). Covering the trench with fleece or cloches will provide insulation in colder areas, as well as protection from pigeons.

Carrots and peas can still be sown in cold frames, but only in mild areas.

Plant out spring cabbages if not already done. Remember to net them for protection from pigeons.

Finish planting autumn onion sets for a crop in early to mid-summer next year.

Garlic can still be planted in mild areas having free-draining soil. Otherwise it can be started in containers or modules, and planted out when more mature.

Radishes, mustard cress, and winter lettuces can be sown in growing-bags under glass or on a windowsill; the ideal temperature is 16°C (61°F). Old, used growing-bags from the previous summer are fine for this, as long as regular liquid feeds are given. After this second use, they can be emptied over the beds as a soil improver. (Don’t, however, spread compost used for tomato growing over your potato beds, as these crops can share many pests and diseases).

Earth up, or add to the cardboard sheath over any remaining trench celery plants that have not yet had their final top-up. Only a tuft of foliage should show at the top. In cold areas, the plants may benefit from being covered with fleece and straw (or bracken, paper, etc.) in case of frost. Self-blanching types are less hardy, and should be harvested before the first frosts. Beware celery rash when handling plants, especially in sunny weather - gloves and long sleeves are necessary.

Chicory (e.g. Witloof), and seakale, can be forced to provide salad leaves into the winter. The blanched, forced leaves are produced when an upturned pot, for example, is placed over the plant to block out the light.

The dying tops of Jerusalem artichokes can be cut back to ground level. Tubers can be cleared from an area of ground if the plant is becoming invasive, as they will re-grow readily.

Cut back asparagus foliage if not already done last month. Take care of the spines, and give the plants some mulch afterwards.

Now is a good time to get ahead and prepare new asparagus beds for planting up in the spring. Plenty of organic matter and grit will help to improve drainage to the level required by asparagus. A raised bed could be a good investment on heavy clay soil, to make it more asparagus friendly.

When clearing old pea and bean plants, simply cut off the tops for the compost heap, and dig the roots into the soil. They return valuable nitrogen to the earth, acting as a natural fertiliser.

October is a good time for digging over vacant areas of the vegetable plot, as the approaching cold weather may help to improve the soil structure by breaking down large clumps into crumbly particles. After digging, any vacant ground can be covered with black polythene to prevent re-colonisation by weeds, or smearing of the surface structure by rain-splash (this is known as 'capping').

In the south of England, green manures can still be sown until the middle of the month. Plants such as field beans, winter tares and Italian ryegrass will prevent autumn weeds establishing, and will act as a soil improver.

Pest & disease watch

Keep an eye on Brussels sprouts, removing yellowing leaves to prevent grey mould from becoming troublesome.

Remove all plant debris from the vegetable patch or allotment, to reduce the spread and the overwintering of disease and pests.

Refrain from composting diseased material, as the temperatures in domestic heaps may not be sufficient to kill pests and diseases. Burning the waste, burying it deeply, or placing it in the domestic rubbish are alternatives.

Place mouse controls near your stored vegetables.

Flea beetle can still be a problem until the end of October, so keep nets in place, but the potential damage caused is unlikely to be as severe as it was in the spring.

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