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Edited e-mail from Anne: Hola from Argentina! Hello to you all from wonderful Argentina. I hope all is well with everybody at the moment. We are currently in a town called Salta,in the North Western Chaco Province. It is nestled between beautiful Polychrome mountains at the foot of the Andes. We arrived here earlier today after a mammoth 22 hour (4bus) journey! Hopefully we will become re-acquainted with our bottoms at some stage within the next few days. However,let me start from Buenos Aires.... We arrived into BA from Auckland on the 26th, which turned out to be the longest day I have EVER experienced. Having left Auckland at 6.30pm on Sunday 26th to arrive in BA at 4pm on Sunday the 26th. After crashing for a couple of hours in the hostel in the old, colonial area of San Telmo, we grabbed some very cheap and very good food in an atmospheric little Argentinian "Parilla". Then after a couple of bottles of deliciously cheap Rioja, we decided to check out the night. Found a great bar run by an Argentinian who had lived in Stillorgan for about 2 years and who had worked with Irish in London..he had the maddest Dooblin/Spanish accent! Nice guy too.Met up with a few guys there,a Kiwi,a German,and a Dutch who had arrived into BA about 2 weeks ago and so far have made it only as far as the bar and back to the hostel..can´t get over the jet-lag was their excuse, but after this night I could certainly empathise. At 4 am we tumbled out of "Gibralter Bar" and into the streets of Buenos Aires. We happened to hear some guitar & singing coming from a doorway..I took a peek and it turned out to be one man sitting at the head of a large table of men, playing spanish guitar and singing folk songs, yeah, I know it sounds a bit contrived, but it wasn´t. They spotted us and invited us in. It was a private birthday party for the owner of the salsa club.At 8.30am we fell out of there having partaken in more beer,birthday cake and some impromptu salsa lessons! (Oh..and Brian did his bit for Irish/Argentinian relations by singing a couple of dedicated numbers for the birthday boy!) They were all pissed as pigeons and so were we, a great night though! We walked, well, sort of walked, back to the hostel and collapsed for the day,waking at 5pm for paracetamol. We spent the next couple of days recovering and discovering BA. San Telmo, the area we stayed in is quite a poor barrio of BA, but full of character. A sort of "Montmartre", without the kitsch..The beautiful, and more affluent area of Recoleta, with its eerie cemetary (Not unlike Pere Lachaise in Paris, but bigger.) This is where Eva Peron is buried, and there are regular pilgrimages to see her tomb. That evening (Wed. 29th) we caught a long distance bus up north to Puerto Iguazu, near the Brazilian border to witness the spectacular Iguazu Falls, discovered by the invading Spanish in the 1500´s. Actually, they were sailing along the river Parana one day, minding their own business and almost sailed over the edge. (Images from the "Road Runner" cartoon spring to mind, of Wil E Coyote back-paddling as fast as he can in his little boat,before plunging off the edge, leaving nothing but his eyeballs floating in the air..?? (OK.. stay with me..)Anyway, we decided to fly in the face of conformity and see the Brazilian side of the falls first,before the Argentinian side,so we took a bus over the border into the town of Foz de Iguazu, Brazil, where we were overwhelmed at the immense power of water as it plunged over the precipice known as "La Garganta Del Diablo", the Devil´s Throat, into the murky depths below. Having never seen falls of this size before I was speechless. The following day, we visited the falls in Argentina..and were glad we had seen the other side first, because this experience was even more spectacular. One of those instances that images such as these just cannot be captured effectively on camera. We did try though. Afterwards, we travelled out to see the Itaipu Hydroelectric Dam, the largest in the world, costing about 4 times what it was estimated, and taking about 20 years to complete. It is situated, geographically,in Paraguay but also serves Brazil and Argentina. We were too late for the last bus out to see it, so we had to make do with a scale model in the info centre! Ah well..prefer the natural wonders myself.. A day later, we were on our way to Asunçion, Paraguay. Caught a bus from Puerto Iguazu (Arg) via Foz D´Iguazu (Brz)into Ciudad Del Este (Pargauay) to Asunçion.(6 hrs) Had to put our watches back one hour, which was a little strange. Stayed overnight in Asunçion,had a look around the following morning, then caught a bus to Resistençia (Arg) (6 hrs) Had a bit of an "issue" with the Paraguyan border police, when entering Parag. from Brazil, the bus we were on didn´t bother to stop at border control,just drove on through,so we ,albeit naively, figured this was normal and thought no more about it, until we tried to leave Paraguay and were told we actually couldn´t. Well not until we went back into Asuncion and got our passports stamped anyway,and as we had paid for our bus ticket out, that wasn´t an option..so after a heated debate between a border official and me, in bad Spanish, a "payment" was decided upon..initially of US$50.00 each but because of our claims of poverty, he took what we had on us at the time, about US$60.00 worth of pesos, stamped the passports and we were on our way. Well, we expected this to some degree anyway..South America and corruption go hand in hand I´m afraid. (And I thought Cambodia was bad.) So, after another 6 or 7 hours on a bus we reached Resistencia (Arg.) at about 9.30pm just in time to catch a bus to Salta. (13 hrs) We encountered 5 Police checkpoints along the way, lots of passport perusing and baggage searches and a couple of playful insinuations as to our disposition towards "Marijuana", and we were on our way again. At 8.30am we reached the Tucuman Province, where we changed buses for another 3 hr journey to a small Chaco town called General Güemes, where we changed buses again, for another hour or so, finally reaching Salta at about 1pm. Pretty wrecked at this stage. Found great accommodation in an "Hospedaje", a sort of homestay type place run by three elderly sisters. The rooms are spotlessly clean,large and airy in a very typically Argentinian house. (If one sister doesn´t have a room for you, she´ll ask the sister next door etc..) Only $20 pesos (approx €7.00) per night. There´s a picture of the virgin Mary and Child over the bed and a crucifix on the wall..so I think perhaps Carmen is trying to tell us something..eh?? So, tomorrow we are going to explore this area a bit and organise to take the "Tren a las Nubes" (Train of the Clouds) on Saturday into the old mining town of San Antonio de los Cobres. This is the highest (altitude)running train in the world and circumnavigates around an area, into the foothills of the Andes..so I am REALLY looking forward to that. We had hoped to take a freight train tomorrow which runs to the Chilean border,but unfortunately it is not actually running tomorrow as its cargo is not sufficient..oh well. Mañana mañana tal vez? We have decided, due to time constraints, to take a flight from Salta back to Buenos Aires on Sunday, as we have to leave Argentina (with great sorrow) on Monday, for Chile.
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