Voyage Pictures
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Monday 6th March 2006
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time – 34 36S 58 22W (Alongside Buenos Aires)
Dist travelled from Cork – 6340 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Buenos Aires – 0 nm

Today is one of the warmest days since we came to Buenos Aires. Our programme is busy. I start at 1000 hosting a meeting of the Admiral Brown Society, The Instituto De Almirante Brown and the Argentine Navy. The agenda is full and includes preparations for the next years 150th Anniversary of Admiral Brown's death, shipment of the ADMIRAL brown Statue, arrangements for setting to work the generator and computers that LE Eithne has shipped to the Admiral Brown School up the Parana River among many others.

Our first external service provision will be a visit by the ship's company to Garahan Hospital where we arrive at about 1345. The hospital is one of the largest in Buenos Aires and has an aura of quiet efficiency. It has almost 2500 staff and 451 beds of which up to 107 are intensive care. It covers the entire country of Argentina. Before I left Ireland I was listening to the debate regarding the optimal site for Ireland's new children's hospital. In the course of our visit today I met one patient who is undergoing treatment over the past few weeks and has travelled 3500km from the south of the country. Another father tending his three-month-old baby, who was born prematurely, lives 300 miles to the Northwest up near the border with Bolivia. He explained that he has been here since the baby was born and that his wife is caring for their other children at home. He used to be in the Argentine Navy and served on the Belgrano shortly before it was sunk. The severity of the children's conditions were striking with some too weak to communicate. Others however were in much brighter spirits and followed us around the wards giggling and smiling at our crew.

Back on the ship Lt Cdr Aedh McGinn was doing an interview for a freelance journalist prior to visiting the Chairman of the Buenos Aires Chamber of Commerce. Cork Chamber of Commerce had asked us to present a gift when we arrived.

Returning to the ship from the hospital, the ship's company are preparing for open ship again. The programme of events seems never ending with many events happening simultaneously as the ship's soccer team leave to play against a local team, hopefully they will enjoy their game.

Later Admiral Godoy will host a reception for Commodore Lynch and the Officers of LE Eithne. I must get to bed early tonight as transport for San Pedro will leave at 0700 in the morning. From there we will take a coastguard boat for three hours up river to the Admiral Brown School - but more about that tomorrow.

I continue to appreciate the e-mails of support and advice I am getting from all over the world. I thought it might be nice to share just some of these e-mails with you.

Dear Commander Mellett,
As your voyage nears Mar Del Plata ones thoughts turn to familiy memories of times past.>

Patricio [Patrick] McCarthy my grand-uncle and his brother Timoteo [Timothy] McCarthy my grand-father, were born in Balcarce, Mar Del Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1897 and 1895 respectively and farmed in Balcarce an area approximately 20km West of Mar Del Plata. Both Timoteo and Patricio were brought to Ireland in 1905 and ended up in the Sacred Heart Home Drumcondra run by the Sisters of Charity. In 1906 they were sponsored by the St Vincent de Paul Society and sent on to St Vincents Orphanage, Glasnevin in Dublin. Spanish was their spoken language at the time.

Later on both went to sea. Patricio McCarthy served on the Irish registered fishery protection vessel Fort Rannoch before he lost his life on the steam Trawler Leukos on the 9th of March of 1940. He is the only Argentinean National to have lost his life on an Irish Registered Vessel during World War 2. Timoteo [Timothy] McCarthy served on the Muirchu during 1939 until the handover to the Irish Department of Defence on the 10th November 1939 and later served with honour on Irish Ships throughout the War years.

Just to say it is an honour and a priviledge to witness albeit thousands of miles away the first visit of an Irish Naval Vessel to a mother country. I wish to take this opportunity to wish you and your crew god speed and a fair wind.

Is Mise Le Meas
Peter Mulvany
Chairperson
Irish Seamen's Relatives Association (1939-46)

Dear Capt. Cdr. Mark Mellett:
These simple lines are to welcome to you to our country, and in your name to all the crew of your ship and to wish for a very happy stay in Buenos Aires.
I know indeed the importance of your visit, that fills me up of emotion and happiness. My father belonged to the Argentine Navy and I myself dressed this uniform when I performed with my military service, so I know to appreciate what signifies to be a Seaman, and the special confraternity that exists among all of them in the world.
Also by this reason I feel a deep admiration to the Admiral Brown and his feats, and through his figure I became to discover Ireland, and I began to research about its history, its culture, its music, and, although I do not have Irish blood, today I feel my heart plenty of love for your beautiful country, to which I expect to be able to visit some day. Even I learnt to play Irish music!!.
I have thought to visit L.É. Eithne before you sail back, and I would appreciate very much to be able to tighten your hand. By the way, I do enjoy the voyage diary, I am very pleased to read it.
I remain at your service by any thing that you could need from our country.
Respectfully yours,
Alberto Burgos

Mark:
It was an honour and a privilege to be invited to the reception aboard the L.E.Eithne. I wish to thank all the crew for their kindness, hospitality and wonderful food, with special thanks to William Leahy and Matt Connolly for try to have a chat in spite of my limited knowledge of English.My grandparents came to Argentina in 1889 from Cork, Limerick and Dublin (Nealon, Foley, Tuckey, Donaghue, Lomazny). I am trying to gather the Irish descendants in the Mar del Plata area and I hope your visit to our city will serve as a cornerstone to the foundation of an Irish Association. My best wishes to you and the wonderful crew of the "best little flagship in the world", and have a a good and safe return.

Jorge Nealon
Mar del Plata

Dear Captain Mellet,

My name is Aoife Ní Fhiannaí i am a 17 year old student from Dundalk, and i am enjoying your diary entries every day. I would like to ask you what exactly is your job as captain of the ship, i.e. whats does average day have in store for you on board? Hopefully you can answer my question.

Is mise le meas,
Aoife

28/02/2006 Mar del Plata, Argentina
To: Cap. Mark Mellet
From: Nahuel Nuñez
Hello:
Hello, I don´t speach english but, I visited your ship in Mar del Plata, and I take pictures. When I have the photos, send to you for this mail, this is my gift for the crew of LÉ Eithne.
Good Bye, and good luck!!!
Hasta Pronto!! Saludos y buen viaje
Pd:. Somebody of the crew speaks a little Spanish?

Hi,
Many thanks for your "captains log" to date, good to hear that you all arrived safely. I am interested in knowing more about the working of the sextant since I first tried one in the Shackelton exhibition in the National Museum last year, it is interesting to know that you still make good use of and that the skill is still alive and well.
Can you recommend any reading on the subject that gives the principles and use of the instrument. I am familiar with navigation principles in general so I am used to the basics and the methods.
Keep up the log book entries !.
Gerard Scott,
Sligo.

The Godson family from Ilford in Essex (E London) would just like to say hi to all onboard L.E. Eithne. Your travelogue is really interesting and, as a second generation Anglo-Irish family with loads of family in Dublin, Tipp and Donegal, it makes us really proud that you're flying the flag for the country.

Good luck, carry on the travelogue and I hope you escape the worst of the weather.

Warm Regards

Mark Godson and family

NB We saw L.E. Aisling in Portsmouth four or five years ago too (one of my daughters is called Aisling, and other is Sinead) - never realised the Irish Naval Service had so many ships these days - your web site is great.

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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Tuesday 7 th March
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time – 34 36S 58 22W (Alongside Buenos Aires)
Dist travelled from Cork – 6340 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Buenos Aires – 0 nm

We always intended that our last full day in Argentina would be such that we would have some time to ourselves, but as I get into my car at 0700 I have a feeling that that is not the way it will be. I switch to a minibus and together with our electrical/electronics team SLt Fergal TURBIRDY and Chief Petty Officers Tom Kelly and Fergus Heaton as well as JJ O’Hara, Martin Casey and Florence (a reporter) we are on the road to San Pedro which is over two hours away. There we hope to pick up a Coastguard boat to bring us several hours down the Parana (Paranah) River to the school project on Los Laurelos Island. Meanwhile back on the ship preparation is afoot for visits by three different children’s groups. One from a home in Buenos Aires for abused children, one from a home for children with serious illnesses including some terminally ill and one from Children of the Fahey Institute in Buenos Aires. We are stretching ourselves to ensure the broadest service provision possible and why not.

We get to San Pedro and meet with Pepe who is our link with the Admiral Brown School. We also meet Alejandro Pablo Castellu of Prefectura Naval Argentina (Coastguard). He has worked a miracle only getting notice of our requirements 12 hours before. Some time ago Foxford School wrote to all of the Schools in Argentina called after Admiral Brown and there are many. One of the replies received was from the school we will visit today called Admiral Brown on the island of Los Laurelos on the Parana River. It is only accessible by boat and services children from the surrounding islands and riverbank of this huge delta and river system. Many of the children come from very poor backgrounds. As we move down the river I notice that there are many bush fires. I am told that families eat otter and that the otter numbers are now in decline accordingly the locals have taken to burning areas of the bush in order to flush out remaining otters. In the main the banks of the river are tree lined, however further inland the trees appear to thin out. Now and again houses can be seen in shaded areas, there presence normally signalled by a makeshift jetty on the water’s edge. As the boat speeds downriver at 17 or 18 knots the repetitiveness of the waters edge is broken by the occasional local waving with both arms. The water is muddy as is the River Plate system the result of soil run off from the surrounding countries, Paraguay, Bolivia, Uruguay, Argentina and even Brazil. I talk with one of the members of the Prefectura Naval Argentina (Coastguard) who tells me that there are up to 5 million people using Argentina’s waters on any one day and that the waters cover an area 46 million square kms, an awesome area. Now and again a herd of wild horses can be seen racing and jumping near the waters edge – it seems that we are as much a novelty to them as they are to us. We joke about the piranhas in the Parana – but I am assured there are none. We are warned however to be on the look out for snakes when we get ashore. I am also told that many of the parents have spent several hours cutting the grass around the school to mark our arrival and also to reduce the risk of snake encounters. It is becoming a real adventure. Finally after nearly two hours in our boat we approach what looks like a long water taxi tucked into high reeds. This is no normal boat stuck out here in the middle of nowhere it is proudly flying the Irish Flag. We berth on a fragile jetty as the water taxi comes off to let us alongside. Within minutes we come through a clearing and there it is Almirante Brown school. The children are having their lunch. Like children anywhere they pretend not to look, giggling and joking to themselves – is my nose really that big! Some of their parents are also there to greet us many having brought younger siblings. This is a big day. With our brief formalities over we set to work on the generator that we have brought all the way from Ireland. Yesterday using a river craft the Argentine Navy had delivered the generator this last couple of hundred miles after the LE Eithne had brought it six thousand miles from Ireland. The school is fitted with a 24 volt wind/solar power system that is totally unserviceable. A small petrol generator gives enough power for some lights only.

Meanwhile back on the ship the first of today’s children’s visits has just arrived onboard. I am sorry that I can’t be there to greet them but I know Lt Cdr Aedh McGinn and Warrant Officer John Walsh will do a good job supported by most of the rest of the ships company who turn to for the three visits. I rely on Aedh and John for my diary entries regarding what is happening while I am away. The children are from an organisation called La Casa De Ronald McDonald (Ronald McDonald House) which is dedicated to housing families of long-term sick children who need prolonged medical treatment. Some of the 12 children are accompanied by their parents and there are five carers. By now our team has become very slick with a tour, food including chicken, chips and ice cream washed down by soft drinks. The last but one act is the distribution of the presents which on this occasion brings a tear to the eyes of not just our own sailors but also some of the staff. One of our lads gives a little boy a plastic power ranger gun only to realise that the boy is blind – but the boy smiles running his hands along the gun, feeling all its gadgets until he finally gets it to emit a laser whoosh. Some children had their face’s painting by A/Sea Jenny Blackwell including one six year old girl who is terminally ill with cancer. The first group are joined by a further 32 from Fundacion Juanito (Jonnie Foundation) for the Protection of Children. This organisation is dedicated to finding and housing children who have been abused both physically and sexually. They join in the party and tour and are also delighted with their toys.

Back in Los Laurelos we have hit a hitch as the cable run is not quite long enough to reach the generator – we can either move the school or the generator. We opt for the latter. A long rope is produced and it is all hands on deck as we push the generator and the children pull the rope – the generator slides along the concrete to its new temporary site. The school is built on stilts because of the risk of flooding so the generator will have to be raised a number of feet off the ground. We have neither the manpower or resources to do it today but we are reassured that this will be sorted. With the connection completed and the school wiring surveyed we will soon be ready for the ceremonial switch on. The boilers, toasters, and electrical equipment which JJ O’Hara has brought from Ireland are all fitted with Irish standard square pin plugs. Options are discussed and before long the extension leads are modified with local plugs leading to multiple outlets with Irish sockets. While this is all going on Ensign James Harding is out playing soccer with the kids – they call him Maradonna and every time he scores a goal the kids all run around with their hands in the air giving high fives. Its time for the ceremonial “switching on” every one gathers in one of the class rooms. Below us the diesel generator purrs into action and we count down 3, 2, 1 and the lights come on. It is a great moment. I have always been saying that every sailor is not just a sailor – he is an electrician or a carpenter or a plumber or engineer. Our electricians have done a great job against the clock. With the power running the head teacher produces a large ghetto blaster plugging it in with excitement – linked to it is a mircro phone and we move into the next stage of the ceremony.

Back onboard children from the Fahey Institute are having a tour of the ship. Fr Fahey founded the school many years ago in order to ensure schooling was available for the children of Irish families who otherwise might not have been so lucky. The pupils are from the sixth class, where school hours are from 0800 to 1630 each day. Food is served and each student gets a presentation pack of a pennant, Brown medallion and information sheet about the ship. These children are more fortunate than our visitors of this morning and the children of Los Laurelos. All enjoy a great afternoon onboard.

Up in Los Laurelos rather than things coming to a close it seems that the school principal had other ideas. The children are formally assembled. The small crew of the Argentine Coastguard boat has fallen in on parade. What am I supposed to do – we fall in on parade. The principal then delivers a typed scripted speech which she clearly had spent sometime preparing. Then some of the children with a homemade flag sash and bucket carrying the Argentine national flag and Admiral Brown colours march on parade to the sound of the Argentine National Anthem being played through the Ghetto Blaster and the salute of all military personnel present. Emotional speeches then follow from JJ O’Hara and Pepe. I am very pleased with all that has been achieved but there is more work to be done and I am worried that without resources the generator will not be located on to its raised position. If it remains where it is, it will certainly be flooded when the river waters get higher in winter (our summer). So it is great that I can conclude my few words by presenting 500 dollars to cover follow on work. The money was from the fund given to LE Eithne by the Naval Association for projects just like this. The rest of the fund will be used in our next ports of call. It is now nearly 6pm it will take us three hours to get back to San Pedro working against the river current. Before we leave we present each of the children with a coin with the bust of Admiral Brown and a Harp on one side and a map of the Atlantic Oceans and our route on the other.

We leave the children in their water taxi. They are heading down river we are heading up river. Their boat still carrying the large Irish Flag is faster than ours but I don’t think I will ever see them again. With many stops for disembarking children and the numerous dog legs some children spend over five hours a day on the boat. On the way back to San Pedro I have time to reflect on what has been achieved. Here we are over 6000 miles from Ireland having carried a generator and other essential supplies sponsored by Irish citizens and Businesses and set to work by Defence Force personnel in what is for all intents and purposes the middle of nowhere. With the sun setting to the west and the moon rising to the east, guess who overtakes us like a flagship doing a victory sail by – the school water taxi with her remaining school children all waving and cheering and shouting gracias.

It is after midnight before we get back to LE Eithne in Buenos Aires – the ship is really quiet – nearly everyone is in his/her bunk worn out - too late to share our adventure stories and too late to get this journal entry back to you in time for timely posting. Tomorrow we leave Buenos Aires and Argentina we have been here nearly two weeks it feels like we just arrived this morning – next stop is Montevideo and Uruguay but first I need to sleep.
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Wednesday 8th March
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time – 34 36S 58 22W (Alongside Buenos Aires)
Dist travelled from Cork – 6340 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Buenos Aires – 0 nm

So we start our last day in Argentina – at 7 am I go for a run towards Avenida Costanera. I hope that the park is open but it is not. The area is a nature reserve and local regulations enhance the quality of ecological protection by ensuring the area is not always open to the public. When I get back to the ship I have a lot of paperwork to catch up on. I must also get on top of e-mails, routine mail and junk mail which have arrived in the last 48 hours. I have time to reflect on the services we provided in Argentina. I review the log of events, the gangway numbers, the numerous meetings, bi-lateral, multi lateral, economic events, social events, sporting events, military events, diplomatic events, humanitarian events, and I total – we break the 5000 visitors between Mar Del Plata and Buenos Aires and have engaged in over 75 events. Is it any wonder the ship as so quiet last night? But this is a campaign and we are just about to complete our duty in our first theatre of action, tomorrow we will be in Uruguay and we need to shift focus.

Our pilot’s board at 1030, a harbour pilot for Buenos Aires and approaches and a river pilot for our passage down the river plate. The weather is perfect. I say good bye to my liaison office Fabian from the crew of the ARA Robinson, I say good bye to her Captain Felix and his executive officer. Both Fabian and Felix are great ambassadors for their navy, bright, engaging and most helpful – mentoring us through our stay with great efficiency. ARA Robinson will escort us down the River Plate before breaking right and heading south. Unfortunately for her the forecast is set to deteriorate as she gets moves on, for me it should stay ok.

Without doubt the highlight of the visit from a military perspective is the honour bestowed on our Navy Chief and our Naval Service with the Award of the Order De May. In terms of services delivered I would say the highlight is the delight in the faces of sick and disadvantaged kids hosted by the LE Eithne’s ships company. In terms of external service provision the highlight is the restoration of electrical supply to a poor school in the middle of nowhere. There was a stage when everyone was tired – but today everyone is proud of what they have achieved and I think they are happier for having pushed it to the limit. The feeling of success brings warmth like that given by the music of a Stradivarius in the hands of a gifted musician – why am I obsessed with this Stradivarius?

We are gently pulled off the wall by two tugs the manoeuvre is straightforward but with ARA Robinson tight to my stern and a number of other Naval vessels close ahead there is little room for error. The band of the Argentinean navy plays music as we depart including Saint Patrick’s Day in the Morning. ARA Robinson’s crew line the side – they have paraded a Guard of Honour – we exchange salutes, let go our tugs and we are out the gap and on the way down the river plate. It is daytime and I am not as anxious as when I last passed through these waters. The river is brown as ever. For some reason we have embarked some mosquitoes that are not on the manifesto we keep the air conditioning citadel tight so as to keep them outside the accommodation.

As we pass La Plata we disembark the harbour pilot and continue our passage. Our draught allows us leave the channel occasionally to let larger traffic pass, mainly commercial container ships bound for La Plata, Buenos Aires and beyond but also some Cruise Liners including one from Italy. They must be surprised to see an Irish Naval Vessel in the River Plate – I suppose because of the similarity in flags most will think its one of their own!

I must spend more time on the bridge than usual so I decide to research the award given to Commodore Lynch. In his speech Admiral Godoy said that

“The Order of May is a token of our country’s recognition of the virtues and merits of those people – both military and civilian – who have distinguished themselves by services rendered and work performed for the benefit of humanity and of the Republic itself. Argentina and Ireland are inseparably united by strong links forged throughout their history, and our navies, joined by traditional bonds of friendship and cooperation, have increased their exchange and interoperability thanks to your valuable contribution. This is therefore, a most suitable opportunity to confer the Order of May upon you, as homage and an expression of our deep respect for your outstanding personal qualities and your vast professional career.”

The award is accompanied by an Order which reads:

NATIONAL EXECUTIVE POWER

HAVING REGARD to the provisions of the executive order No. 16.629 dated 17 December 1957, ratified by Law No. 14.467, whereby the “ORDER OF MAY TO NAVAL MERIT” was instituted, and
WHEREAS:

THE Board of the Order has consented to the proposal to award Commodore Francis Lynch, Flag Officer, Irish Naval Service, a decoration as a token of high recognition by the Argentine Nation.

It falls to the NATIONAL EXECUTIVE POWER to promulgate the pertaining complementary provision in exercise of the powers conferred by Article 6 of Executive Order No. 16.629 dated 17 December 1957, ratified by Law No. 14.467.

Therefore,

ARTICLE 1

The Record of the Board of the “Order of May to Naval Merit”, signed on 15 February 2006, is hereby approved, awarding the “ORDER OF MAY TO NAVAL MERIT” in the grade of “GRAND CROSS Admiral Guillermo Brown” to Commodore Francis Lynch, Flag Officer, Irish Naval Service.

ARTICLE 2

The pertaining diploma shall be issued, in accordance with the provisions of Article 19 of the “ORDER OF MAY TO NAVAL MERIT” Regulations, as approved by Executive order No. 16.644 dated 18 December 1957.

ARTICLE 3

To communicate published, transmitted to the National Department of Official Registration and placed in the archives.

[Signed]

Nestor Carlos KIRCHNER

President of the Argentine Republic.

I cannot add to what has been written and said – it is a great honour for Commodore Lynch and our Navy.

We finally arrive near the approaches to Montevideo – we are nearly twelve hours ahead of our pilot pick up time. Lt Cdr McGinn brings the ship to her anchorage and asks me to say what a fine job he does. When we finally drop the hook buoys marking the wreck of the Graf Spee are bearing 308 degrees by 6 miles. I need a haircut and Ensign Sean Linehan is the best barber onboard. Sean agrees to bail me out and cuts my hair on the bridge wing. I look in at the lights of Montevideo and am reminded about the background to Saint Patrick’s Day in the Morning.

The first Argentine Naval victory, the taking of Martin Garcia Island, was the initial step prior to the decisive battle of Montevideo. The Island fortified with, artillery, dominated the mouth of the Uruguay River, a great affluent of the River Plate.

It was dawn on the 15 march 1814 when Guillermo Brown disembarked commanding land and sea troops, and attacked the Spanish under the orders of Commander Jacinto de Romarate. The attack was made to sound of this march, performed by the fife and drum players (both Irish like Brown and a good number of the attack forces) of the Flagship, to Hercules Frigate.

By sunrise the Republicans were in control of the batteries whose cannon had fired on the Hercules two days before, and the blue and white flag was raised for the first time.

In 1977, on the occasion of the bicentenary of the birth of Admiral Guillermo Brown, the Argentine Navy added this march to its repertoire.
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Thursday 9th March
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time – 34 54S 56 13W (Alongside Montevideo)
Dist travelled from Cork – 6340 nm (nautical miles)

We wake off the approaches to Montevideo with the wind gusting up to near gale from the West. In home waters because of the large fetch on the Atlantic coast giving rise to a significant swell this is normally bad news. Here with the wind off the land it is not quite such a misfortune. My body clock knows it is only 0530 but because we advanced our clocks one hour last night the local time is 0630. Just to make it really confusing we will have to retard the clocks on Sunday. Petty Officer Michael Broderick knows my form when we have these early morning starts and thrusts my thermos mug full of strong coffee into my hand. The pilot will board us shortly and Aedh will bring LE Eithne into the harbour.

With the pilot onboard we navigate the channel – the chart display screams at us that we are navigating in waters with less than two metres depth – as we look out the window we are clearly in the channel. I am satisfied about the name of Monte Video – in reality coming in from sea there is only one hill and it stands proudly on the shoreline – Monte (Hill) Video (I see) there can be no other answer. The buoyage system here is different to that in Irish waters – with Red to Starboard on the way in to harbour and Green to Port. As Aedh moves the ship towards the harbour entrance the pilot calls for more speed it is like the entrance to Mar Del Plata with a surf running from left to right – but Aedh hold’s his nerve and the ship is in. The GPS fed chart display shows the ships track having passed over the harbour breakwater!

Once alongside I prepare for my calls – but first a run. The wind is cooling but the sun is still hot. They say that with the depletion of the ozone layer that the sun at this latitude is particularly strong. I run towards the East and see that with the wind, having shifted to the southeast, is forcing clearer seawater into the river plate system – the river plate is blue once again.

My first call is to the senior Naval Captain of the port. A guard of honour greets me on arrival and we exchange plaques. He proudly tells me about the founder of the Uruguay navy Mr Peter Campell – another Irishman. I move on to my second call and another guard of honour and meet the senior Coastguard Captain. Again we exchange plaques. He explains that because of the access restrictions imposed on foot of the new International Port Security Code it will not be possible to allow LE Eithne be open to the public. It is a disappointment. He also explains that because of an agreement between the government and a commercial diving contractor there is a restriction on diving on the Graff Spee. Our divers had hoped to record that they had dived on the wreck – for now we will have to be content with a dive on another ship sunk close to the harbour approaches.

Back onboard ship preparations are under way for lunch. Derek Lambe from the embassy has given us our guests’ names and the table plan is prepared. At the lunch as well as the two Captains we are joined by a Naval Admiral.

In the afternoon the ship is a hive of activity as we prepare for our evening reception. I have no idea of how big the Irish community is in Montevideo. The guests start to arrive by 1915. A large proportion is ex pupils of St Brendan’s school, educated by Christian Brothers. I greet all the guests as they board, shaking their hands and welcoming them onboard. I shake one hand and notice that the man is missing some fingers but I don’t think to much of it at the time. Many wear a blazer with a shamrock motif of their rugby club. They are all so proud of their education.

In all we have about 300 guests and the evening is a huge success. Interestingly some are survivors of the 1972 air crash in the Andes. They recall how their aircraft with their rugby team which was travelling to Chile was delayed in Argentina because of bad weather. It was October. The plane crashed in a remote spot in the Andes mountains with air temperatures of -30 degrees centigrade. The search for the missing aircraft was concentrated in the wrong area and it was not until two members of the team having walked through the mountains for many days suffering from frost bite raise the alarm. I think of the man with the missing fingers. Their story is recorded in the film “Alive”.

The reception is a huge success with our ship’s band “Hercules” once again performing in an outstanding manner. Before we know it, it is after 11 pm and some of us go ashore for a meal. We return about 1245 AM. It is 0530 when I am called we must move our berth to make room for a passenger cruise liner. My body clock says it is 0430 – I could really do with a full nights sleep.
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Friday 10th March
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time – 34 54S 56 13W (Alongside Montevideo)
Dist travelled from Cork – 6340 nm (nautical miles)

Its 0530 and my body says its 0430 – we are all closed up and awaiting for a liner to berth and a freighter to depart before we shift our own berth. It is a little frustrating but this is a commercial port providing the lifeblood of the Uruguay economy. We are pulled off the berth by two tugs one named Gaucho and one named Huracan. I wonder has Huracan ever been in a Hurricane. I remember early in 2005 when on LE Eithne we spent several days at anchor in Lawrence’s Cove near Catletownbere during bad weather recording on one-occasion hurricane gusts across the deck. Technically wind speeds of greater than xx are classified as hurricane. With the change in weather patterns as a consequence of global warming the probability of such winds in Irish waters is increasing. This is not good for the future given that statically we already have the worst sea conditions off the Irish Coast in the world.

With LE Eithne alongside her new berth I go for a run only to be joined by a number of Dockers who forget their work loading a grain vessel and light-heartedly run along the quay wall calling in Spanish as their tummies spill the beans of their running prowess. My run takes me along the seafront called Las Ramblas. As the run winds by a small park adjacent to the seafront I run by a monument – before I read the inscription I can see that it is of Admiral William Brown. Yesterday when I ran here the wind was fresher from the Southeast and in places waves broke across the wall on to the path. Today the sea is calmer and as I pass one spot where the waves were breaking I see the remains of flotsam and seaweed on the paving. I also sea the oil stains from the polluted water like black patches all around the concrete. This is one penalty of the level of maritime traffic in the River Plate. By far the greatest cause of oil pollution at sea is the deliberate discharge of oil or oil products. Tank cleaning is one activity which gives rise to a large proportion of these discharges. In 1998, which was the year of the oceans, the independent world commission on the oceans said that our seas are in crisis, unfortunately between then and now I have seen very little in terms of user practice to suggest that things are getting any better. Irresponsible fishing methods, selfish commercial activities and reckless disregard of International Law combine to ensure that the state of our seas is in serious decline and we are effectively engaged in Intergenerational Sabotage as we destroy in this generation that which we should gift to the next. Since we have come to South America in conversation the same issues that affect the seas off our coast are also the agenda items here.

Onboard ship preparations are in hand for the visit from CAS (Creativity, Action, Service). This is an international program in which senior secondary students volunteer their personal time to help the disadvantaged. By 1530 the bus has arrived carrying about 8 final year students from St Brendan’s college in Montevideo in addition there are over 30 younger students from a disadvantaged school about 40 kilometres from the city called La Paz. Each weekend and during their holidays senior students from St Brendans visit the more junior students of La Paz – mentoring and helping in the students of this deprived school in whatever way they can. We break the group into smaller parties and give them a tour of the ship. Each group in turn see all the nooks and crannies of the ship, bridge, ops room, engine room, damage control headquarters and so on. They are also shown into my dayroom where I run a power-point picture show of our activities. We then treat all the children to a party and conclude by presenting both schools with a framed print of LE Eithne by Philip Grey. They all leave at about 1730 as we close up and prepare to shift berth again.

It is a beautiful evening with a light breeze. The pilot explains that he wants to use two tugs. I am relaxed even though we are tucked in to a tight corner with the large grain ship overlapping my starboard bow on a perpendicular berth. There is also another merchant vessel close to my stern. With both engines clutched in the pilot orders the tugs to pull me off. Gaucho the bigger tug has a line from my bow and starts to pull me towards the grain ship. Hurrican is astern and is supposed to pull my stern clear of the other ship but she looses an engine and before I know it we are closing the grain ship quickly and it looks like we might touch. Petty Officer Paul McCarthy quickly drops the Jack Staff as we drift in under the bow of the much larger grain ship. Two metres, one metre we nearly hit. I go astern but I have no room with the other merchant vessel so close. Petty Officer Brendan Madden calls the distance from aft 4 metres, 3 metres I stop engines and give a slight kick ahead to take way off the ship and we begin to drift again towards the grain ship again. The pilot is becoming agitated with the two tugs and neither is helping me in any way. I would gladly go back alongside if I could and wait for the tugs to get their act together. I have no bow thruster and it will mean that Gaucho will have to slip his tow and push me back. I have lost confidence in both of then. We continue to jockey between the two ships until eventually Hurrican recovers and starts to behave as planned. LE Eithne is pulled off the berth and we clear both ships, swinging in the centre of the harbour. We go alongside port side to, with our bow pointing out ready for departure on Sunday. I learn a lesson, not for the first time and I am sure not for the last time – never be complacent when manoeuvring your ship.

That evening we go ashore for something to eat. The meat is as good as Argentina. Montevideo is much smaller than Buenos Aires and the pace of life seems more relaxed. Food is very good value with a meal of good steak and wine costing about 8 euro per head. The currency is the pesos and the exchange rate is about 30 pesos to the Euro. There is an interesting relationship between Uruguay and Argentina with one or two bones of contention, which I will talk about before we leave. Tomorrow we have been invited to All Christians Rugby Club to watch the Ireland Scotland match and also play a game of seven aside – I agree to tog out – will I be sorry, lets see!
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Saturday 11th March
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time – 34 54S 56 13W (Alongside Montevideo)
Dist travelled from Cork – 6340 nm (nautical miles

It is little overcast when we jump on the Bus for “All Christians”. Many of the ex students were at our reception on Thursday night and they were kind enough to invite us to visit their clubhouse. It is about an hour by bus. We arrive at the beautiful clubhouse with the smell of a bar-b-q in the air. We are greeted by the members and shown around the house – they are very proud of what they have. But, there is something deeper in their warmth a strength of character and a friendship that has been forged from something. I think that today is the first day since we came to South America that other than the Rugby match we have no other service provision requirements. I am happy that we can relax – although I do think why did I allow myself be co-opted on to the Rugby team. I am happy I can run forever but that might not be good enough if the opposition decide I need to be tackled!

The Ireland Scotland match starts. There is a lovely atmosphere in the club and everyone is so friendly. At half time we eat steak, kidney and Uruguayan sausage. After the match Gustavo Zerbino one of the survivors of the 1972 Air Crash gives us a short talk about the circumstances surrounding their crash. He explains that there is a great tradition of Rugby in All Christians. He talks fondly of the principles and values which the Irish Christian Brothers instilled into them as students. He says that as students they were mentored about the need to be courageous on and off the sports field and never to throw the towel in. He tells of how their team was travelling by plane from Montevideo to Santiago in Chile. The plane was diverted to Mendoza in Argentina because of weather. On the 13 of October it continued its flight to Chile. The plane eventually crashed some distance from its normal flight path and actually ended up coming from Chilean airspace into Argentinean airspace. The wreckage came to rest on a glacier about 5000metres above sea level. In all the survivors spent 73 days in the mountains. Gustavo in a simple statement said they did what had to be done to survive. As they were well off the planned flight path the search was concentrated in the wrong place. Eventually two of the team headed off to try and raise the alarm. After many days exhausted and gaunt they found a shack in a remote part of the mountain. The occupant a man who is now in his eighties couldn’t believe where they had come from. He had no communications with the outside world. He then undertook a 100km journey on horseback to raise the alarm. We were shown original footage of the rescue. 29 died in the disaster and 16 survived. It was a very emotional talk as the survivors spoke of how some of them lost their parents, brothers and sisters in the crash. They continually referred to the values that the Christian Brothers had given them and they were unanimous in their view that it was the schooling and conditioning to be courageous and never to throw the towel in that ensured they survived. There were many tears in the room. At the end they made the point of how honoured they were to have us the same blood of the Irish Christian Brothers who had been their mentors. They presented us with a Club Rugby Jersey and other souvenirs. I found it very difficult to reply. We had witnessed in their courage something that many of us will never see in our lifetime. In the Defence Forces we sometimes have to show courage and spirit in very difficult conditions such as in search and rescue or counter drugs operations in the case of the Navy or in difficult overseas missions in the Defence Forces in general. What we all had felt today made us humble and I said just that, but I was still proud to present the print of LE Eithne breaking through the sea in a gale with her small 7metre Rigid Inflatable Boat doing point several miles ahead. The Caption of the print was most appropriate for our hosts – “With Spirit & Courage we Face The Unknown”.

We then all piled into the bus and headed off to see Uruguay’s top two Rugby teams play a friendly. All Christians conceded that Cacero Polo Club were the current champions but they intended to change that this year. The match was as exciting as it was tough and Cacero won by the narrowest of margins. We then togged out for our Rugby Sevens guess who we were playing – Cacero. As our team were heading to get changed – for a moment I had second thoughts. There was no pressure on me but at the same time I had given a commitment so I joined them. Warrant Officer John Walsh, our manager gave his talk and outlined the game plan. With our bullets on the wings we were to feed the ball out. I sat on the line for the first half – it was a lot more competitive than I had expected. Once you get a few knocks the competitive spirit kicks in and you want to win. SLt Fergal Turbridy opened the scoring for us with a great run from the half way line. Lt Cdr Aedh McGinn was well able to ruck an maul with Uruguayan players sailing through the air like confetti at a wedding. Our supporters are brilliant spreading themselves over both sides of the pitch. Leading Seaman Noel Dunne was on fire as was Leading Mechanician Giggles McPhilbin – for a rotund man he was really able to move. Ensign James Harding showed that he was not just a good soccer player. The pace was electric and by half time we needed fresh legs so on I went. As I said I knew I could run but could I hide? Seaman Adam Purcell showed his talent as a GAA player. Mechanician Brian Hastings was well up for it also as was Mechanician Joe Byrne. Into the second half we were neck and neck at twelve points each. On more than one occasion SLt Ciaran Carr’s strength helped win the ball. Then with a minute to go Fergal kicked a clever ball up the middle. I was off running like there was no tomorrow I looked up as the ball descended – could I catch it? No it was going to bounce. There was nothing in front of me but the ball and the line. The opposition were breathing down my neck please bounce favourably – and it did straight into my arms – then whack. I was hockeyed from behind the biggest player on the opposition had brought me down with a crash I felt my knee go. But I still had the ball – I rolled over on the ground and held on to it for dear life – there was no way I was going to give it up – and then I came to my senses as Ensign James Harding screamed in my face give me the f***ing ball ……Sir! He grabbed it and fed a long throw to Giggles who kicked it with the grace of a front row forward to Noel Dunne. With the agility of a gazelle Noel was gone and in behind the posts for a try – it was 17 for us and 12 for the opposition. Our motley crew had just beaten the strongest club in Uruguay.

The man of the match was Giggles McPhilbin he epitomised what had been achieved. We bought our win with our hearts, our spirit, my knee but most of all we paid in courage and as we headed back to our ship many reflected on the great day we had – and I think of the words of John F Kennedy

For without belittling the courage with which men have died, we should not forget those acts of courage with which men have lived.
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Sunday 12th March
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time – 34 54S 56 13W (Alongside Montevideo)
Dist travelled from Cork – 6340 nm (nautical miles)

No run today as I hobble around the ship more embarrassed than anything. I ask Petty Officer Matt Connolly the ships Emergency Medical Technician to have a look – he is satisfied that it is just bruising and tells me to rest, elevate and put ice on it. He tells me I should have put ice on it within twenty minutes of receiving the injury – I say doc next time we play rugby sevens I want you there with a bucket of ice!

We are leaving Montevideo at 1300 – travelling to our first port of call in Brazil Rio De Janeiro. The wind is forecast to be near gale from the northeast. It might be rough.

I think of how similar Uruguay is to Argentina and yet I sense that things are easier going here in Uruguay. In 2002 Uruguay had the second strongest economy in South America the country has traditionally been better off than many other countries in the region, and is known for its advances in education, its established social security system and liberal laws governing social issues such as divorce. Uruguayan banks were host to many Argentine private and business accounts and when the economic collapse was occurring in Argentina many Argentineans withdrew their money at such a scale as to destabilise the unit of currency in Uruguay.

Uruguay was amongst the first in Latin America to establish a welfare state, maintained through relatively high taxes on industry. The system, which had increasingly strained state finances, was reformed in the 1990s.

While both Argentina and Uruguay are very close, during our time in both countries we have become sensitive to a particular tension centred around the construction of two paper-processing plants on the River Uruguay. The Argentinean argument is that due to the amount of water that is polluted during the manufacturing process the rivers eco system, which both countries share, will be severely damaged. The rift is so severe that it has led to a blockade of border crossings between the two countries by protesters. Uruguayan Meat and other exports to Chile now have to go by Sea as opposed to travelling via the traditional land route. The point is also made that Argentina has a dozen or so of these paper-processing plants, which are using older technology.

Uruguay's colonial towns, beach resorts and a year-round mild climate have contributed to an increasingly important tourist industry. Punta del Este is the main resort and used by both Argentineans as well as Uruguayans. Its economy has also benefited from substantial earnings from offshore banking. But a dependence on livestock and related exports has left Uruguay vulnerable to fluctuations in world commodity prices. Recessions in Brazil and Argentina - its main export markets and sources of tourists - propelled the country into economic crisis in 2002. Disbursements from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and a restructuring of foreign debt helped to foster a fragile recovery. However, the recession left many Uruguayans living in poverty.

Uruguay’s population like that of Argentina consists overwhelmingly of second- and third-generation Europeans, mostly of Spanish or Italian origin. However, while it has a large middle class and is largely free of serious income inequality, the 10% or so of its population who are of African or mixed European-native American descent form a higher proportion of its poorest people. Some statistics in brief regarding Uruguay are:-

• Population: 3.5 million (UN, 2005)
• Capital: Montevideo
• Area: 176,215 sq km (68,037 sq miles (Twice the size of the Island of Ireland)
• Major languages: Spanish, Portunol or Brazilero (Portuguese-Spanish mix) Major religion: Christianity
• Main exports: Meat, rice, leather products, vehicles, dairy products, wool, electricity
• GNI per capita: US $3,950 (World Bank, 2005)

With the pilot onboard by 1300 I think to myself that this is a nice country. It certainly is a very cheap place to live and the climate is very favourable. I look out the bridge window and there moving into position to take a line and pull me off the wall is Hurican – this time I will keep the con taking the advice of the pilot as necessary. I ask the pilot to have the tug pull me off gently and two minutes later as we drive out from our berth we slip the tow. A tight turn to port brings us toward the breakwaters which protect the harbour from the south and southeast. Speed is increased and before long we are out of the harbour inner area passing the wreck of the Graf Spee probably for the last time – but never say never! We drop the pilot and alter to the East towards Punta Del Este

The wind has not got up yet so we push on to clear the Rio Plata in daylight. Passing Punta del Este I can see loads of high-rise buildings. As we turn in to the South Atlantic and track northeast the wind has stayed below near gale and is on the nose. We are making good time.

Our focus must now shift to Rio De Janeiro where we host economic, diplomatic, humanitarian as well as events associated with St Patrick’s Day. The 16th of March is going to be the busiest day with commitments starting at 0900. It will be non stop until we finish the economic function for the Galway based company MCS who work with the Brazilian Oil Industry Petrobras. We must fit calls of Portocol, custom and the return lunch as well as host a party for Street Children. I will talk to the ship’s company before we get there and outline my expectations – but I know they have a good idea already. Jokes about raising the bar so high that we can’t even see it are order of the day. Besides the preparation for service provision – in Rio we can’t afford to take our eye of the ball regarding the onboard routine. Our passage will take us closer to the Brazilian coast than we have been to date. Besides the increased pressures in terms of navigation with poorly local fishing vessels, other threats like unlit fishing nets, navigating through the busy oil fields and of course the piracy risk all must be considered. We will be running against the Brazilian current so my speed over the ground will be reduced by at least a knot.

As night descends I look along our track checking over the courses that SLt Patricia Butler has laid down. She has everything marked up with little notes like do not hit beside dangers along the way. Checking the sailing directions I note that uncharted shoals exist in these waters and a number of dangerous charted wrecks lie between 5 and 10 miles offshore. Trish has them all marked. What she can’t mark are the uncharted shoals so I instruct that the echo sounder should be left running. As we pass Cabo Santa Maria I calculate that we will enter Brazilian waters at 0200 – another day another country we have now been away from home for five weeks – just four to go..more tomorrow.

Week One
Week Two
Week Three
Week Four
Week Six

Voyage Pictures