On the diplomatic front the catalyst for this visit was the invitation of the Argentine government for Ireland to send a warship to Argentina in 2006. There are many strong links between Argentina and Ireland with an estimated 500,000 second and third generation Irish living in that country. One of the key figures in the Argentine state is the Mayoman Admiral William Brown who is iconic in stature in the eyes of the Argentinean establishment and citizens. Brown, who left Foxford as a young boy, is to Argentina as the Kennedys are to the United States. When finalising what dates in 2006 LE Eithne should travel to Argentina it was decided that it would be important that the visit should coincide with a key date in the Brown calendar. So in 2006 we are coming to Argentina to celebrate the anniversary of the death of this great man on March 3rd. A man who was not hostage to doctrine and who continually surprised his enemy through his unconventional approach to Naval Warfare. A man who was a humanitarian in his outlook. So it is entirely appropriate that these two themes should be hallmarks of the services we will provide – being unconventional and being humanitarian.

On the protocol and diplomatic front the tax payer can be proud of the services that the men and women of LE Eithne will deliver on their behalf. Of course to some degree the assessment of success will be qualitative, but any opportunity in this region, which succeeds in bringing diplomatic communities together under an Irish flag, also serves as a statement of genuine interest in South America. Of course there is also the business opportunity and LE Eithne through the diplomatic receptions as well as through other focussed events will act as a focal point for key decision takers to meet and develop existing relationships and explore potential new trade links, thereby enhancing our national economic objectives

Irish exports to Latin America exceed €500m (2000) and this represented 1% of Irish merchandise (i.e. hard goods as against software) exports and 5% of EU trade with Latin America: Latin America represents 7% of all EU Trade. The big beasts of the Latin American economy are Brazil (a remarkable combination of a first world economy (Brazil is a major exporter of aircraft, for example) mixed with some abject poverty, Argentina (now recovering from a difficult economic decline about 3 years ago) and Chile, commonly regarded as the fastest growing and in many ways the most European of Latin America countries. Incidentally, Uruguay, although small, has the second highest GDP per capita in Latin America. The deployment is consistent with the other efforts in recent years by Ireland to raise our profile and, ultimately, our trade with Latin America. President Robinson visited the area (Argentina and Chile) in 1998; the Taoiseach visited Argentina and Brazil in 2003 and President McAleese visited Argentina, Brazil and Chile in 2004. LE Eithne is visiting two of the three ‘big beasts’ and, also, one of the most economically and socially advanced countries in Latin America, which is on a par with Ireland. Specifically the ship will be used as a platform to promote Irish goods and services notably for the Galway oil services company MCS Limited and for the Kerry Group.

On the cultural side in addition to the ceremonies in Argentina for Admiral Brown, the ship will act as a floating show case of “Irishness”. Besides the crew each of which in his and her own right will act an ambassador we will reach out and leverage off the Irish community in each city we visit. The result of our efforts will be more than the sum, a synergy which will see Ireland and things Irish being on the agenda in each country before, during and after our stay. The food we will serve is Irish, the music we will play is Irish, the pictures we will show will be Irish the art we will display will be Irish.

I am delighted that the Mayo Artist Ger Sweeney has loaned LE EITHNE an entire exhibition of paintings entitled “Coast” for the duration of the deployment. The exhibition, which in due course I will talk about in more detail, comprises of a selection of his works inspired by travel and memory and completed over two years at his studio on the Mayo Coast. It will form the centre piece of every formal and informal occasion we have on LE Eithne.

I would like to talk in more detail about the humanitarian aspects of the work we will do but I am piped to the bridge. Just on the bow at three miles the Officer of the Watch Ensign James Harding draws my attention to a large cylindrical object floating in the water. A number of days ago I spoke about the risks to ships from hazards such as lost containers well here we have such a risk. It looks like a buoy that must have come adrift from the Pampos Oil field three hundred miles north and which was carried south by the Brazilian current. There is no doubt in my mind but had I struck this 50 tonne hazard at night the solid angle iron, at each end could have seriously holed our ship.

Flicking through the Navigation warnings there it is one of two last reported drifting two hundred miles to the north. The easy thing to do would be just to report it to the nearest competent authority and carry on. My experience in home waters however is that our Naval Operations command would regularly divert our ships hundreds of miles to deal with Navigation hazards and why should it be any different here. We are in International water, we have a serious hazard to navigation, we have the competence and the capacity to deal with the problem and more we have a duty as professional mariners. I bring the ship to action stations and increase our damage control status. By closing hatches below decks and subdividing the ship into smaller compartments we can increase the watertight integrity of the ship. This is necessary so that I can manoeuvre close to the object before deciding on a course of action.

At about 12 metres in length and three metres in diameter including the reinforced metal protectors at each end the cylinder has an enclosed volume of between 60 and 70 cubic metres. Satisfied that the hazard is a derelict and in consultation with the Brazilian Search and Rescue Authorities I open to two hundred metres and one of our 20 mm cannons firing armour-piercing rounds is brought to bear. Single shot first just in case it’s full of gas and then automatic fire. Even after the first rounds it is clear that the object is beginning to take some water but filling a 70 cubic metres cylinder with 50 or 60 trickling taps is going to mean it will be a long time before the tank sinks. So we move to phase two.

Having holed where possible along the waterline we despatch our divers supported by our engineering staff to open the five vent holes on top of the hazard. Everything is going smoothly until just as we launch our Jaguar boats there is a call of shark, shark. Sure enough circling the hazard like sentries on duty are three or four hammerhead sharks with their fins breaking the surface. Any plans we have for going to swimming stations after the operation are shelved.

Phase two however will still progress with the proviso that the divers are to stay out of the water and to get on to the object directly from the boat only if it is safe to do so. Petty Officer Paul McCarthy our Bosun, and Leading Seaman Gordon Cummins are first to climb on to the hazard. Petty Officers Maurice Plant and Eric Stephens (whom I beat in the third round of the darts tournament last night) then close with PO Plant also getting on the derelict to give technical advice. Moving confidently along the hazard and using probing rods through the bullet holes they report that the cylinder is hollow and not filled with polystyrene or other similar material. The divers open each valve in turn and to my delight report that it is now filling easily with water. We make our report to the Brazilian Search and Rescue authorities and we resume our passage to Mar Del Plata satisfied that are doing our duty.

Dinner tonight was special – we celebrated Christmas again, Turkey and ham, plum pudding and whiskey cream – the nearest we will get to alcohol for another four days. Despite my joy of making it to the fourth round in the darts, tonight, Seaman Robert Wallace knocked me out. Its now 30 minutes after midnight and I need to do my night orders and guess what with the stroke of a pen I am going to make it 30 minutes after eleven we are moving to Argentinean time.

An extra hour in the bunk for many, an extra hour on duty for those on watch. As I turn in there is a gale warning for South Oceanic just what we need – will we avoid it you will have to wait and see!
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Wednesday 22nd of February

Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time –29 46S 47 32W
Dist to Cork – 5320 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Mar De Plata – 695 nm

By morning LE Eithne is about 100 miles to the east of Lagoa Dos Patos. It is the largest lagoon in Brazil extending 130 miles north from Porto do Rio Grande to the mouth of Rio Guaiba. It is separated from the sea through its length by a sandy peninsula, 6 to 12 miles wide, on which there are dunes and a few small patches of vegetation. We will pass closer to this lagoon in two weeks time on our passage to Rio De Janeiro.

The wind is offshore and where we are I am thinking - how things can change overnight. By 7 am I am running uphill on the treadmill with an almost three degree incline which I have not put into the machine. The wind is now gusting to a near gale from the west and LE Eithne, catching the wind easily, is listing to port causing the incline. We are light because of our low fuel tanks after the 4000-mile journey from Santa Cruz. It is unusual for the wind to be this fresh but we are prepared for it. Imagine waking up and finding your house tilted to one side. It would be the simple things that catch you like the water in your shower tray won’t go down the plughole. Worse still it will probably overflow into the rest of your bathroom space and if you are really unlucky out under the door into your bedroom, taking your toilet brush with it on the way. By midday the pitching is starting as the sea begins to build and our speed starts to drop. Last night we went back to one engine because we were ahead of schedule. Now we must stay on one engine because of the weather. While it also helps conserve the remaining fuel – we are making slower speed than anticipated because of the wind. If there is a lull we will bring back that second engine and race for our objective – the rendezvous with the Argentine navy and the Port of Mar Del Plata.

Ahead as we look to the river Plate we have more to think about, as a relatively deep depression off Uruguay is likely to give us problems soon. Our weather information providers are forecasting gale or strong gale force winds in our area for Friday night or Saturday morning. They are not however forecasting the weather we have now – something is strange and looking at the relatively rapid drop in the barograph my feeling is that the depression is deepening earlier than expected or else an unexpected frontal system is passing through. The deepening depression is bad news in the short term but might just be to our advantage in the longer term. Lt Olan O’Keefe gives an assessment and his judgement is just what I suspected. The depression off Uruguay is possibly deepening and we are getting the effects earlier than expected. The positive side is that we are still 600 nautical miles from the depression centre. If it goes according to the weather forecasters predictions on Friday/Saturday we would be about one hundred miles from the depression centre. In that position we could expect much stronger winds than those, which we have now and they would be from the South East whipping up a large sea and swell. Our hope is that the depression will behave as they do in this area and shouldered by the blocking high of the horse latitudes slip down to the southeast feeding the roaring forties.

We are now in the horse latitudes. Under normal circumstances the wind should be light and in the days of sail when ships were becalmed for long periods in these latitudes to save water the horses were the first to go overboard. South of the horse latitudes we have the roaring forties – the equivalent to our prevailing westerlies in Irish latitudes. In the southern hemisphere they reach gale force with such regularity that they are called the roaring forties after the latitudes wherein they are generally located. For today at least the roaring forties has expanded its footprint! Throughout the day we will monitor the forecasts. Is this an unexpected frontal trough or an early more rapid change in the character of the depression?

Earlier the afterdeck was awash as the waves broke over the starboard quarter. But the wind continues to back to the South as LE Eithne gives an occasional pound causing the ship to quiver like it has just taken a bite of a bitter lemon.

Life carries on as normal onboard. All departments have moved their personnel below decks. We used the good weather window wisely and externally LE Eithne is now looking good. Internally the electricians and Engine Room Artificers are busy trying to repair one of our air condition units as well as installing lighting in the cross deck alleyway, which is adjacent to our main reception area. We have placed a picture of our President Mary McAleese in this area. The shipwrights, including Leading Hull Artificer Declan Tighe, work side by side with the electricians removing and drilling panels as required. Seaman Aidan Hitchins is on watch ready to take the wheel as required by the Officer Of the Watch – but right now because traffic is non existent the ship is on auto-pilot and steers itself. This allows Aidan to keep a sharp lookout. Aidan took over watch from Seaman Helen Meridith of the Naval Service Reserve. We were delighted that Helen was able to come with us on the deployment.

This time last year LE Eithne was four hundred miles off the West Coast following the Blue Whiting shoals as they migrated north chased by mainly Norwegian, Faeroese and Russian fleets. When we needed additional help Helen made herself available for the extended patrol in what are statistically some of the most hostile seas in the world. These long patrols are carried out over the horizon and I suppose are the other side of the coin in terms of service provision. In the past I have sometimes felt that there isn’t much understanding of this type of work, being carried out as part of Ireland’s contribution through the EU to the North East Atlantic Fishery Commission’s (NEAFC) work. There is however another important consideration some of the waters covered by the NEAFC area of jurisdiction overlap with the area of continental where Ireland has or will submit its claim for sovereign rights over the seabed and sub-seabed resources. From a ship’s commanding officers perspective it is a tasking like any other that requires all his skills in order to ensure the maximum service provision while maintaining morale.

LE Eithne’s deployment to South America in terms of output for 2006 will represent just over 3% of the total patrol output of the Naval Service. The vast majority of the remaining patrol time will be focussed on home water patrols such as NEAFC up to 200 miles off the Irish coastline.

In addition to Helen from Cork we have another Naval reserve member Leading Seaman Rachel Calopy from Limerick. Rachel was a late addition to the crew list – she has already proved her worth in her work and because of her fluency in Spanish she will be particularly valuable in Argentina.

The miracle men under PO Chef Eddie Staunton are in the galley getting dinner ready – tonight we are going to the Chinese – Sweet and Sour Pork, Fried slice beef in Oyster sauce and Stir Fried Chicken. We are very fortunate to have such talent onboard LE Eithne and this talent in the creation is complimented by our silver service team. Supply Jackie Shanahan, Supply Chris Hurley and Supply Paddy Lawlor who work with us in the wardroom under the direction of Petty Officer Michael Broderick will be key members of our catering team when it comes to our formal dinners, luncheons and receptions. Also helping in the logistics side and attached to the ship for the deployment is Senior Chief Petty Officer Tom Cronin one of the longest serving Non Commissioned Officers of the Naval Service.

In case anyone thinks otherwise – LE Eithne is a twenty-four hour operation. Using a watch system all departments are manned every hour of every day with a reduction in manning only when we are not underway. At two and five thirty in the morning the galley will spring into life as the night rations are cooked for the middle (12 – 4) and morning (4 – 8) watches. We don’t expect our chefs to turn to for these feasts so normally one of the duty watch is press ganged for the duty. Delights such as sausages on toast and runny egg sandwiches are divided between the bridge, communications centre and engine-room watches. Amongst those on duty tonight will be Mechanicians Patrick Collins and Joseph Byrne as well as Engine Room Artificer David Culleton. While on watch but not on the bridge additional tasks such as polishing decks and painting jobs in the internal high transit areas are often assigned. As evening approaches the weather moderates and I am able to phone the Officer Of the Watch, our Navigator Sub Lt Patricia Butler and ask her to ring on the second engine. While we can we will try and make a few extra miles. Patricia who did the passage plan for this 13000 nautical mile deployment will effectively have command on my behalf until Midnight when she will hand over to Lt Damian Mc Cormac. Having competent watch-keepers puts the Captain’s mind at ease and so that there is no ambiguity in command policy for the period during which I will sleep my night orders will be written during which instructions peculiar to the particular passage are articulated. Issues covered include minimum traffic separation, action in the event of weather change, charts to be used, courses to be followed and special engine requirements.

Having completed night orders I have just reviewed the weather and it seems that low is still developing just off the coast of Uruguay. It is right in our path to Mar Del Plata – the bad weather has not gone away and I sense I won’t be able to run on two engines for two much longer. If the low develops as they are now forecasting the wind will be full gale force from the southeast offering us no real opportunity for shelter – will we be up the River Plate without a paddle we’ll have to wait and see!
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Thursday 23rd of February

Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time –33 40S 52 00W
Dist to Cork – 5715 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Mar De Plata – 300 nm

Overnight the weather has continued to moderate and we wake to a beautiful morning. The winds are relatively light and the temperature has dropped to about 24 degrees. The seawater temperature is also falling a little and is now 25.6 degrees. We are about 70 miles south south east of the Port of Rio Grande, which sits on the southern end of Lagoa Dos Patos, the lagoon I spoke about yesterday. An unusual consideration when approaching the Port is the need to be cautious when calculating draught for entry and exit. Depending on the wind conditions the seawater density can change from almost completely seawater (meaning less draught) to completely fresh water (meaning greater draught) in the space of a couple of hours.

Before 7AM I am alerted that the Gerry Ryan show has taken an interest in our hammerhead sharks and would be keen on an interview. My run is put on hold for the time being. We will use satellite phone to make the link. I was surprised to find that Gerry thought we might be bored on the passage from Cork to Argentina. The way I feel now I wish I was bored – before we even get to our first Port we are feeling a little tired so I for one will take it easy tomorrow. First however it is time for a run.

As I mentioned last night it looks like the weather has not given up and the depression off Uruguay is continuing to build. Through our Naval Communications Staff we pass a message to the Argentinean authorities that we have a concern over the weather. Their assessment is even more severe than ours with a forecast of wind-speeds gusting up to 47 knots this is just below storm force. The only way to avoid the weather is to turn back and run north. As it is we may have to put the weather on our stern, particularly if it is blowing from the Southeast as there will be no lee whatsoever from that direction in these waters. We decide to stand on and get to our rendezvous position ahead of schedule so that at least we have time to pull back if the sea and swell begins to rise. One last obstacle before we can taste the harmony of Mar Del Plata.

Our Argentine escort has been changed and we will be met by ARA GUERRICO one of the DRUMMOND Class. This 80 Metre Frigate has quite an impressive, missile, gun and torpedo fit. The ship has an unusual history in that it was originally built for the French Navy and sold to the South African Navy in 1976 while still under construction. As a result of an UN embargo on arms sales to South Africa this sale was cancelled and it was purchased by Argentina arriving there in 1978. The class has assisted in United Nations operations off Haiti in 1994.

After yesterdays internal preparations the ship is ready for me to carry out Commanding Officers rounds. This inspection can take up to two hours and entails the Captain visiting every nook and cranny on his ship. Each department head stands by his department and all personnel turn to. I am very pleased with the inspection. After rounds the entire ship’s company muster in the hangar and I give my assessment. In the final analysis it is really a matter of pride, pride in your ship, pride in your department and pride in yourself. By now it is clear to all that mediocrity will get us nowhere on LE Eithne. We have come to the other side of the world to deliver services and notwithstanding the bad weather ahead of us the easy part has been done from now on the reputation of our service and our Defence Forces is in our hands. It will be judged by how our ship looks, how we deliver services and how we perform on and off duty.

With rounds complete we continue with some preparations for Mar Del Plata. Our marquee decking is laid. I have a concern that the wind may catch it but Aedh is happy that we can strap it down. Getting this job out of the way will make it easier when we get alongside. The officers’ forum is convened and we review the most recent version of our programme for Mar Del Plata, Buenos Aries. Everything from menus, to ceremonial, to children’s visits, to the visit by the Argentine Special Olympic Committee and team is discussed. We have a number of wreath laying ceremonies and parades. There are several diary clashes and deputising Captains are appointed.

By 8pm LE Eithne is beginning to roll more severely as a building easterly sea and swell runs up towards the River Plate. There is still no significant drop in the barograph. We are well ahead of schedule so we drop back to one engine. The semi final of the darts tournament was played earlier tonight and Supply Paddy Lawlor and Mechanician Patrick Collins were to meet in the final but that has to be postponed. By 11pm the sea has continued to build. We have now reached the mouth of the River Plate and we are between Cabo St Antonio in Argentina and Pta Del Este in Uruguay. As we move towards our rendezvous point the waters are beginning to shallow and the wind is freshening further. It is now gusting over 40 knots. The Sailing Directions talk of a local wind called the Sudestadas. These winds are caused by depressions moving into the area from the Parana basin, which then deepen rapidly near the coast before moving off to the southeast. On average around five to eight Sudestadas occur each year. The sailing directions reassures me that the incidence of winds of force 7 and above at this time of year should only be between 2 and 5 percent. I feel like throwing the book overboard. It looks like nobody is going to get much sleep tonight!
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Friday 24th of February
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time –37 07S 56 06W
Dist to Cork – 6015 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Mar De Plata – 88 nm

This morning, we all wake as if we had not slept. The wind is a full gale and the seas are heaping up from the southeast. Our escort ship has (wisely) reviewed her rendezvous position so that it is closer to Mar Del Plata. My view is that the conditions are such that they are perhaps too extreme to justify the protocol of sending an escort to meet us, but this is a matter for the Argentine authorities and we are grateful that they will honour us in this way. As I look out on the grey wind swept waters it finally dawns on me as to why William Brown felt so at home in these seas – right now they look exactly like the squall ravaged waters of Blacksod bay on a dark winters day. While the probability of us experiencing these conditions are between 2 and 5 percent – when it occurred it must have brought Brown right home to his native Mayo – that is where my mind is right now.

We are now over 6000 nautical miles from Ireland. The air temperature has dropped to a cool 16 degrees which together with the gale also drags down our morale - at least a little. I am not unduly worried however because I simply could not see how the morale of the past two weeks could be sustained or go any higher – a slight dip today is timely leaving sufficient room to surge tomorrow when we enter Mar Del Plata.

Yesterday afternoon we had moved the generator out to the end of the flight deck. Even though it is well covered and protected from the elements on more than one occasion I thought of it overnight especially when we took a heavy wave. This generator along with a raft of other items were acquired by JJ O’Hara from the proceeds of the charity of the people of the Mayo and Galway. Such is the weight of the generator we used a block and tackle arrangement to give us the required purchase to haul it across the flight deck, using plywood sheeting to protect the paintwork. Once in position the ship’s company set to laying the deck for marquee. This was my second worry overnight – but I was well assured by the bosun PO Paul McCarthy that it was going nowhere.

By late afternoon we close the Argentinean coast and for the first time we see Argentinean soil. In some ways we are like a dog looking into a butcher shop so close but we still have nearly 24 hours before we enter the Port of Mar Del Plata. Besides torturing ourselves there is a practical reason why we close the coast to get a mobile phone signal. Within twenty minutes mobile phones, which have been dormant for the past two weeks, are popping up left right and centre.

At 1800 we sight the Naval Vessel Guerrico and we proceed to close her position. The wind has eased off to a force six and we do what we in the Irish Navy do best we despatch one of our boarding teams from six miles to close the Argentinean vessel. As I have mentioned before with an interception speed of up to 70 km per hour she can close the distance three times faster than LE Eithne and as dusk is approaching rapidly I am keen to get the formalities over with and get into the passage programme before our entrance to Mar Del Plata. ARA Guerrico then formally welcomes us as follows:

" Ireland’s Navy Vessel LE Eithne this is Argentine’s Navy Vessel Guerrico. In the name of the Commander of the Naval Atlantic area Capitan De Vaio Roque Andres De Vicenzo, the Commander of the Navy Patrol Division Capitan De Navio Eduardo Castro Rivas and the Commander Task Element, Officers and Crew of this Warship welcome to Argentinean waters. For us it is a great privilege and honour to receive and sail with a warship of the heroic Irish Navy who carry the traditions and the blood of our most important Navy hero your fellow countryman Admiral William Brown. We truly believe that this visit will serve to reinforce even more the historical bonds that join us. We wish you the greatest success in your task and we expect you to enjoy your time to the maximum in our country."

In response LE Eithne extended the following reply:

"Argentine Naval Vessel Guerrico this is the Irish Naval Flag Vessel Eithne on behalf of Commodore Frank Lynch Flag Officer Commanding Irish Naval Service, Captain James Robinson Officer Commanding Naval Operations Command, the entire Irish Naval Service and the people of Ireland, Commander Mark Mellett fellow county man of your great hero Admiral William Brown and the crew of LE Eithne wish to thank you for your welcome and honouring us with your presence in this difficult weather. We have come a long way full of excitement and with high expectations and we look forward to our visit to your great country. With Spirit and Courage we have faced the unknown the same spirit and courage that your great hero and our countryman Admiral William Brown shared with your people".

As the greetings concluded LE Eithne’s executive officer Lt Cdr Aedh McGinn with the agility of a trapeze artist and accompanied by Ensign Sean Linehan boarded ARA Guerrico on its starboard side. Gifts were exchanged and the passage plan to Mar Del Plata was agreed. As dusk set in Aedh and Sean were again in the port Jaguar under the command of Able Seaman Adam Purcell and returning to LE Eithne. In doing so they reinforced what is the Irish Navy’s niche area of expertise, heavy weather small boat operations. With the Jaguar hoisted we set course for the overnight passage to Mar Del Plata carrying out a variety of evolutions underway such as signal lamp exchanges.

As I finish my journal for today ARA Guerrico is taking up position in our wake. With the evolutions now completed we will stay in company overnight. We switch our hangar red night lighting to white as we gather for the final of our darts competition (which is won instyle by Supply Paddy Lawlor beating Mechanician Patrick Collins). Already the morale metre indicates a rise, the lights of Mar Del Plata glow on the horizon and every sailor on board LE Eithne feels honoured and privileged for having been described as the blood of Argentina’s most important Navy hero our fellow countryman Admiral William Brown.
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Saturday 25th of February
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time –38 02S 57 32W
Dist to Cork – 6100 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Mar De Plata (Centre) – 1 nm

Mar Del Plata has a population of approximately 500,000 but swells with over 1.5 million visitors during the summer months. The summer season is just about to winding down now in Argentina. Besides the Naval Base Mar Del Plata is also home to a large number of fishing vessels and has boat building and repair facilties. There are a number of beaches as well as a fine yacht club. On the hill overlooking LE Eithne’s berth there is a golf club.

Two TV stations arrive and I give an interview to each. They are interested in what views the Irish people have of Argentina and whether or not we will invite the public onboard.

Late in the evening I go ashore with the rest of the Wardroom for a meal. In a way the significance of our journey passes us by and it is not until we relax with a glass of malbec wine, our first drink in over two weeks, that we realise what we have had a very successful passage. We travelled from Cork to Argentina arriving two days ahead of schedule having completed four gunnery shoots, two damage control exercises, two fire fighting exercies, two diving exercise, two armed boarding exercises and station keeping with the Argentinean ship ARA Guerrico. In addition we have sunk a major hazard to Navigation. We have provided met reports to met eireann and kept a log of all cetaceans and marine life we have seen along the way, including hammerhead sharks. I finally retire to my bunk at a time I am not going to record here – more tomorrow.
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Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Sunday 26th of February
Midday Posn (Z) Irish Time –38 02S 57 32W (Alongside Mar Del Plata)
Dist to Cork – 6100 nm (nautical miles)
Dist to Mar De Plata (Centre) – 1 nm

Sunday morning is nice. Some of us go for a run along the seafront. The ship will open to the public, but unlike home the demand will be later in the evening so at the request of the Argentinean Navy we agree to open from 1700 to 2000. Our divers carry out a ship’s bottom search. During the dive we check out all the ships inlets checking for mussel growth or blockages. We check each blade of the ship’s controllable pitch propellers. The leading edge of each blade is approximately 2 metres long. The blades have a sleek design so as to minimise cavitation. They are designed primarily for ahead propulsion and as such are less efficient when going astern. LE Eithne does not have a reversing gearbox and in order to go astern the pitch of the blades is changed by a hydraulic system while the shaft continues to turn in the same direction. While diving we check both rudders as well as the sacrificial anodes to ensure that they are reasonably intact. The visibility is just over one metre with a lot of mud stirred up especially by the keel diver, which happens to be me on the return leg. There is about 5 feet of water below the keel.

On the quay wall a large crowd has gathered to take part in a sports day.

Preparations continue onboard for tomorrow’s events. With three calls of custom and protocol - gifts have to be prepared. The main gift we will bring is the Philip Grey painting of LE Eithne in a gale with one of our Jaguars in the forefront and the image of Admiral Brown looking down – the painting is inscribed as follows:

With Spirit and Courage We Face the Unknown ”This painting is a tribute to Admiral William Brown a man who shared his great courage and spirit with the Argentine nation. Died 3rd March 1857.“ His Spirit Lives On

Co-incidentally Philip was my Petty Officer Gunner on LE Eithne and stood up the gunnery department with me when the ship was built in 1983. He was with me when LE Eithne crossed the Atlantic under Command of Cdr Jack Jordan in 1986. It was there that he had his first exhibition in the hangar.

In the galley the chefs have planned their menu for the lunch and the reception. Last minute provision requirements need to be identified now. As I type the scent of baking finds its way up to my flat from the galley two decks below probably brown bread for the smoked salmon and cases for the vol o vonts. The menus and place names are printed as well as a raft of other notices and signs – in both English and Spanish – ladies, gents, cloakroom and so on. The backing boards for the art exhibition are being prepared by the chippy, naval slang for Shipwright or carpenter or as they are now called hull artificer because of their expertise with fibre glass and other composite materials. These backing boards are painted white which is Ger Sweeny’s preferred backdrop for his paintings. All the paintings are acrylics on canvas or wood and range in dimension from 12” x 12” to 60” x 60”. Ger currently has a show at Hilsboro Fine Art , 3 St Anne’s Lane, Dublin where he is showing “Terrain” between Feb 23 and Mar 18. Ger’s Statement for the exhibition on LE Eithne reads as follows:

This exhibition comprised of a selection of my works inspired by travel and memory and completed over two years. Having travelled to South America, India, Europe and the US I find myself invariably drawn to coastal regions as a fertile source of inspiration for my work. Trade and cultural interaction via the sea has for centuries fuelled the development of countries globally. Ports continue to be a hub of activity, change and possibility. In doing so they have long been a source of inspiration for artists worldwide. As well as being fascinated by the ever changing light and the elements particular to coastal regions I am intrigued as a painter by the metaphorical resonance of such locations. The sense of exploration in my paintings to some degree reflects a quintessential aspect of the Irish psyche. The forging of new horizons has always been part of our culture, reflected by the broad Diaspora of Irish people in South America. As an Irish artist this is an ongoing debate in my work. Ultimately it is through syntax of memory and exploration that my paintings evolve, resolving themselves in a manner that is “open”, so the viewer may interpret according to his/her own opinion and experiences. Enjoy!

I am delighted that Ger has loaned these paintings and I think that they will provide a unique character to the reception area. The Argentine people will not miss their maritime theme together with the fact that Ger is a Mayoman producing these paintings not far from where Brown was reared. While the art offers me a perfect solution to a complexity that I had been thinking about for sometime in the final analysis this is just another example of a service that LE Eithne will provide, unconventional maybe but LE Eithne is supporting the arts!

It is nearly 8 pm local time and the last of the visitors are leaving the ship, in all 673 people were onboard over the three hours, which is a huge turn out. Interviews were given to radio and print media. I am now getting itchy feet as I am due in a venue for 830 pm to watch a recording of the Ireland Welsh match. We have tried all day to ensure nobody says the score – lets see if I get there without somebody pricking my bubble – more tomorrow.

Week One
Week Two
Week Three
Week Four
Week Five
Week six
Week Seven

Voyage Pictures