route>directory

Dalkey Quarry

Dublin

 

East Valley  

 

The Ragged Edge                  E3 6a   

Start as for Jingle Bells, but continue on up the arete.

R. Browner, M. Duffy                 16-05-1996 

 

Alter-Ego                                E2 6a

Start below the arete right of Jingle Bells. Climb up and right onto a ledge in a groove. Then climb up and right out of the groove onto another ledge to finish above.

R. Browner, M. Duffy                 16-05-1996

 

Ground Zero                           E2 6a

Climbs the groove just right of Jingle Bells. Climb the groove from bottom to top.

R. Browner, C. Rooney,             18-05-1996

M. Duffy

 

Custodian Conduct                  E3 6b

Climbs the obvious corner 5m to the right of Jingle Bells.

R. Browner, M. Duffy                  18-05-1996

C. Rooney

 

Demonic                                  Severe

Climb the obvious easy crack 2m right of the previous route.

R. Browner, C. Rooney,             18-05-1996

M. Duffy

 

Ice Cream                                E4 6a      6m

An exciting route of poor quality i.e. no gear on dubious rock. Start 2m left of High True Buffer Clear. Climb directly up onto a moving flake at about half height, make a reachy move slightly right and finish decisively. Low in the grade but of a serious nature.

R. Browner (Solo)                       20-3-1994

 

Indecent Assault                      E7 6c      20m

Start at the ash tree to the right of Ripsnorter. Climb with relative ease to a ledge where good protection can be arranged in a deep crack (2 home made pegs, not in-situ). From here a series of sequencey moves lead to the finishing groove. A big reach or strong left leg may be beneficial on the crux.

R. Browner, J. Gillmor                 04-07-1995    

 

Haunted                                   E5 6b?

Reclimbed after crucial foot hold broke off.

R. Browner, P. Keane                 04-08-1998

 

The Bogeyman                        E6 6a      21m

More of an obvious challenge than line. Follow The Ghost to the niche and continue directly up the slab.

R. Browner, M. Duffy                   21-09-1996

Toproped prior to ascent

 

Horrified                                   E4 6a      20m

Start 3m left of Yorkshire Pudding. Climb directly up between two faint seams to a wire at the right hand end of The Ghosts sloping ledge. Follow The Ghost to the 'arched overlap', step left and finish eliminately between Poltergeist and The Ghost. Probibly not worth the effort.

R. Browner, S. Coughlan,             27-7-1995

W. Walshaw

 

Hung Over                                E3 6a        20m

Slab between Yorkshire Pudding and Honeypot Crack. Climb slab using thin crack right of Yorkshire Pudding for protection. When crack thins step delicacy right to small pocket (6m 1st crux) and up to good stance at bulge (Small hex in borehole) Climb bulge in centre to gain good hand hold (2nd crux) and finish direct to top. Alternative finish: Step left at borehole to corner and climb it to top.

T O’Connor, N Keegan                     April 97

 

Need a Drink                             E4 6b       15m

Wall right of Drinker’s Delight main corner. Start below ledge of Drinker’s

Delight climb direct to ledge of Drinker’s Delight at 5m. Climb thin crack in wall 

to small borehole from this to good handhold in nitch (crux) finish at large 

borehole in skyline. 

T O’Connor, C O’Connor, N Keegan     Aug 1997

(Top roped prior to ascent)

 

 

 

West Valley

 

Bodyform                                  E5 6b        14m

Follow Body Stretcher to the base of the obvious steep corner. Climb this using a preplaced RP for protection.

M. Duffy, C.Rooney                       04-1997

 

Body Bag                             HVS 5b      14m

Large corner right of “E” Route. Start 1m left of “F”route and climb up into corner, climb corner to roof, step left and climb head wall to finish at top of Body Stretcher.

T O’Connor, N Keegan                 Sept 1996

 

 

 

Upper Level

 

Rapture                                     E5 6b     27m

Climbs the leaning arete left of Great Central Route.

R. Browner, S. Coughlan             01-08-1996

C. Rooney

(Top roped prior to ascent)

 

Slapstick                                    E6 6b      35m

The left arete of Central Buttress.

R. Browner, M. Duffy                   16-5-1999

(Top roped prior to ascent)

 

Spandex                                     E6 6b       35m

The pegged project left of Return of the Jedi. Climb the steep corner and meander on upwards to finish.

R. Browner, M. Duffy                    16-10-1996

(Redpoint ascent)

 

Bitter Aftertaste                            E6 6a       23m

Takes the obvious line of weakness through the steep wall on the east flank of Tower Ridge. Climb the ramp just above Giants Staircase to a peg. Swing left onto the steep wall and continue up on small but positive holds to reach a jug on the lip (dubious thread). Pull over the lip to gain a ledge and good nut protection. Finish up and right to gain a crack. Follow this to the top.

R. Browner, C. Bligh                      09-06-1994

(Top roped prior to ascent)

 

Purgatory                                        E2 5c       24m

Start as for Preacher and move left under pulpit to gain the tree. From tree gain small ramp and finish direct (crux) to top of Preacher.

C O’Connor, N Keegan, T O’Connor    Aug 2000

 

 

 

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