|
Nutley
Herbalists
Hard Severe 8m
Start in the depths of a dark corner beneath the large,
low roof left of Definitely The Beach. Climb the corner to reach generous
undercuts in the roof crack. Follow this rightwards, then upwards until it
abruptly stops, leaving you to finish the remaining headwall all on your
own.
R.
Browner
04-06-1995
Got Any Rizlas Mate
E5 5c
14m
Follow Tandoori Chicken to the where it meets the large
roof. Hand traverse rightwards along the break at it's lip to the short
arete at the roofs corner. Finish up this.
M.
Duffy
Summer 1998
Flubber
E4 6a
12m
Start as for Tricky Dicky. Follow this to the where it
meets the right hand side of the huge roof. Hand traverse leftwards along
the sloping break at the lip, to finish up the short arete with an awkward
move.
M.
Duffy
Summer 1998
Viva Las
Vegas
E3 6a 14m
Climbs
the lower arete below ‘The Cabbage’. Start as for Elvis, but move up to the
long hoz. break in the lip of the roof. Hand traverse out to the arete and with
a couple of wild moves reach up for the next break. Move up again to the final
break and finish up the wall just left of the arete.
Paul
McArthur, Ali
Moles,
06-05-2000
Ali
Wilson
Meep
Meep
E4 6a
18m
Start 3m right of Wily Coyote, below a roofed corner at
three quarters height. Climb easily past good protection to a roof at 6m.
Make a difficult move through the roof to gain a good fingerlock and/or
good wire. Move briskly onward, upward and outward to pull into the roofed
corner for a good rest. Traverse left, around the arete and finish up the
middle of the wall above.
R. Browner, J.
Gillmor
24-06-1995
The Funky
Family
E2/3 5c 18m
Start 1m left of The Banned Wagon. Climb directly up for
3m the meander left to a faint corner, then right up through the roof at
it's right hand end. Then left again, and finish up the groove above.
R.
Browner
07-08-1995
Underworld
E5
6b
18m
Addresses the obvious crackline up the thin slab. left
of Fear of Feathers. Follow Fear of Feathers for 2m. Make a long step left
to gain the base of the left hand crack. Follow this crack until either
it, or you, can go no further.
R. Browner (Redpoint
ascent) 07-08-1995
The Borg ate my Mars
Bar E3 5c
Start 4m right of Pitchfork Wilt below a
large roof with two obvious cracks in it. Trend leftwards up a line of
weakness that leads to a horizontal break below the roof. Traverse right
to a good foothold on the arete and hastily arrange gear before climbing
dynamically and acrobatically over the roof on its right side before
getting some respite in a small niche. Continue up the corner, slight
overlap and the arete above to belay on a large ledge.
Ali
Moles, Paul
McArthur,
06-05-2000
Ali
Wilson
The
Guardian Crustacean
E4 6a
Spits
Fire
Start
about 35m to the right of The Borg ate my Mars Bar beside a large pool and
below a roof/corner with three obvious cracks on the headwall above. Make
interesting moves up under the roof taking care not to disturb the
guardian cruatacean too much with your gear placements. Move leftwards
into the corner by technical and bold moves before reaching up to a large
ledge and a good rest. Select the central crack and climb comfortably up
to the next roof where lack of holds forces you out right and over the
roof in a spectacular position to another crack on the right and easier
climbing. Belay in the small bowl at the top of this crack.
Ali
Moles, Paul
McArthur,
06-05-2000
Ali
Wilson
Dyno-Rod
E4
6a
10m
Start 6m left of Trick or Treat at the right hand end of
the third large cave. Stretch from your tip toes to reach the first hold
(a slot at 8 foot) in a bottomless corner. Crank up to the break, jug left
and continue up and left through some steep ground on surprisingly good
holds. easier than it looks.
R. Browner, J.
Gillmor
Summer 1999 |