Fruit picking can begin in earnest, with strawberries, cherries, summer-fruiting raspberries, currants and the earliest of the plums. Remember to harvest red, and white, currants in bunches, still on the stalk - they will keep and taste better. Blackcurrants can be picked singly or in clusters, as preferred.

Side shoots that form on pinched-out grape laterals can be stopped at one leaf. Leaves that are shading grape bunches can be removed, to speed ripening of the clusters. Harvest indoor grapes when the skin becomes translucent.

Later in the month summer pruning of restricted fruits (e.g. cordons, espaliers, fans) can begin. In northern regions delay until August. Cherries and plums can be summer pruned after cropping.

Thin apples after the June drop if still overcrowded. Remove blemished and 'king' (i.e. central) fruits from the clusters first. Branches still heavily laden after thinning can be supported with a V-shaped stake.

Protect ripening peach, nectarine, and apricot fruits from the birds; trained trees can be covered with nets fairly easily.

When summer-fruiting raspberries have finished cropping promptly cut out the old canes.

If possible, water tree, bush and cane fruit thoroughly once every seven to 10 days during dry spells. Mulching will help them retain water where hosepipe bans or drought orders are in place. Keep large-fruited apples, such as 'Bramley's Seedling' particularly well watered to help avoid problems with bitter pit.

Continue to peg down strawberry runners if new plants are needed. This will encourage the plantlets to root.

Continue to tie in and train new blackberry canes. Keep new canes separate from older, fruiting canes to ease later pruning.

Propagate blackberries and other cane fruits with long, lax stems by tip layering.

Cut back sideshoots on gooseberries to four or five leaves, or just beyond the fruit clusters. This will speed ripening (by increasing sun on the fruits), encourage fruit bud formation for next year, and control aphids on the new growth. Red and white currants may be pruned in the same way.

Thinking of growing blueberries? If so, check your soil pH is sufficiently acidic - blueberries need a pH of 5.5-5 to prosper. Otherwise grow in containers of ericaceous compost. Protect them from birds.

Pest & disease watch

Apple and pear scab is very prevalent, showing up as large blackish spots on both the leaves and fruit.

Bright orange spots on the upper surface of pear leaves can indicate a problem with pear rust. This disease can also affect and be carried by juniper bushes.

Look out for codling moth caterpillar damage, which is evident as a single brown hole piercing the skin of apples.

Woolly aphids may be visible on apple and pear trees as a white, fluffy coating. It is best to treat them early, as they will only become more prevalent as the summer progresses.

Treat American gooseberry mildew, and watch out for gooseberry sawfly damage.

Keep an eye on strawberry plants’ performance, as yield declines after about three years. You may need to prepare a new bed, and order catalogues to select new plants for September planting.

Raised red blisters on the leaves of currants indicate an infestation of currant blister aphid.

Coarse leaves, slightly enlarged buds, and reduced yield on blackcurrant bushes can be a sign of big bud mite or reversion virus. Unfortunately, the only cure is to dig them up and burn them.

Remove mouldy or damaged strawberry fruits and leaves, to prevent the spread of the fluffy grey mould, Botrytis.

January February March April May June July August September October November December