Plant any cane, bush and tree fruit ordered last month. Do not plant if the ground is frozen or waterlogged. If the planting site is not ready when plants arrive, then heel in the bare-root ones in a spare piece of ground, and leave containerised ones standing - but water them when needed.

Start winter pruning of established, open-grown, apple and pear trees (not cordons, espaliers, pyramids or fans).

Gooseberries, redcurrants and blackcurrants can be pruned from around now, but it might be better to wait until late winter/early spring, so that any winter damage can be removed at the same time. Wounds will also heal faster in the warmer weather.

Cut out the fruited canes of blackberries and hybrid berries, if not yet done.

Formative pruning of young, free standing, fruit trees and bushes (under three years old) can also be done from now. They should first be pruned to encourage branching and bushiness from the main stem. Subsequently, they should be encouraged to form an open centred ‘goblet’ shape of main branches, without any being misplaced or crossing.

Mulch fruit trees and bushes.

Lift and divide rhubarb plants to propagate them, or to rejuvenate old crowns.

Strawberry runners that have been potted up for forcing in February and March next year, should now be turned on their sides, or placed in a well-ventilated cold frame. Excess moisture or warmth could cause rots or precipitate premature growth.

Hardwood cuttings can be taken this month - this is a great way to propagate blackcurrants, redcurrants, white currants, gooseberries and grape vines - providing they are disease (especially virus) free.

Grape vines can also be propagated using eye cuttings. These are shorter than standard hardwood cuttings (having only one bud, or ‘eye’), and are used commercially to produce a large number of plants. Only attempt these if you are confident, as longer cuttings have more buds to rely on for rooting.

Grape vines can be pruned from now through the winter. Doing this early for those under glass will allow more light to reach other plants in the glasshouse or conservatory. Prunings can be used as hardwood cuttings.

Clean and store bamboo canes in the shed (or other dry place) to ensure they're still in good condition for next year.

Pest & disease watch

Check stored fruit regularly; any rotten ones should be removed promptly to prevent spread of disease.

Trap winter moths by placing grease bands around fruit trees. Tree stakes will also need grease-banding if they provide a route up into the branches.

Remove all remaining plant debris from the vegetable patch or allotment. Do not compost any diseased material; burn or bin it instead.

Spray peaches and nectarines against peach leaf curl just as the leaves begin to fall. Trees can then be covered with polythene supported on wooden posts, to prevent re-infection by spores carried in rain droplets.

Place mouse controls near stored fruit.

Collect and dispose of fallen apples and pears affected with brown rot. Pick off any affected fruit that remains on the tree (otherwise the fruit becomes mummified and forms a source of infection for next year).

Rabbits deer and squirrels can be pests, particularly as the weather gets colder, gnawing the bark of fruit trees and bushes, and eating windfalls and harvests left outside to cure.

Do not let fallen apple and pear leaves infected with scab or European pear rust lie on the ground at the base of the tree. Garden hygiene is crucial in the control of these problems.

Winter pruning of fruit trees and bushes can start towards the end of the month, and gives you the opportunity to inspect your plants carefully. Any signs of canker or staining within the wood (a possible sign of infection) can be investigated and/or controlled as necessary.

Poor winter drainage (e.g. on clay soils) can cause fruit trees and bushes to suffer, and may lead to the development of Phytophthora root rots. Mulching, installation of drainage nearby, and any digging possible without disturbing the plants’ roots, will help to improve the health of trees and bushes suffering in this way. Contractors can even be brought in to inject compressed air or nitrogen into the soil to loosen compacted soil.

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