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Introduction Part I

Introduction Part II

Introduction Part III

Introduction Part IV

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Attractions

Phnom Penh

The capital still retains an undeniable charm despite its tumultuous and often violent past. The crumbling colonial architecture makes an attractive backdrop to bustling streetside cafes and the redeveloped riverfront precinct - a particularly lively part of town on Friday and Saturday nights. The city has several impressive wats (temple-monasteries), including Wat Ounalom (headquarters of the Cambodian Buddhist patriarchate), Wat Phnom (the hilltop pagoda which gave the city its name) and the newly painted Wat Lang Ka. Pride of place goes to the spectacular Silver Pagoda, one of the few places in Cambodia where artefacts embodying the brilliance and richness of Khmer culture were preserved by the Khmer Rouge (although only 40% of its former glories were 'preserved'). The National Museum is another highlight, with outstanding displays of Khmer crafts.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are a grisly reminder of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge. Some 17,000 people were killed here, just 15km south-west of the city centre, and more than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the glass panel of the Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988. Prior to their murder, the victims had been detained at the prison known as S-21, housed in the Tuol Svay Prey High School. Today, the Tuol Sleng Museum serves as testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge, and few details of each victim's torture and death are left to the imagination.

The Central Market area, which includes Monirong Blvd, is the main centre for budget travellers, with cheap accommodation and plenty of food stalls. Head to the city's half-dozen or so street markets to browse and bargain for jewellery, antiques or the ubiquitous kramas (checked cotton scarves). The riverfront is the place to go for cheap beer and good food.

Angkor

The celebrated temples of Angkor are Cambodia's greatest tourist attraction. The 100 or so temples are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger administrative and religious centre, and were built between the 9th and 13th centuries to glorify a succession of Khmer kings. Most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples were gradually cloaked by forest. The site became the source of scholarly interest in the late 19th century after the publication of Voyage à Siam et dans le Cambodge by French naturalist Henri Mouhot. Efforts were undertaken to clear away the jungle vegetation that threatened to completely destroy the monuments, and restoration continues today.

Apart from Angkor Wat, two other magnificent temples to visit are the Bayon and Ta Prohm. Accommodation and food can be found in the town of Siem Reap, only a few km from the temples.

Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville's beaches aren't a patch on Thailand's, and sights are few and far between, but as Cambodia's only maritime port it makes a reasonable base for exploring the south coast and nearby Ream National Park. Four beaches ring the headland - Ochheuteal, Sokha, Independence and Victory - and the fishing port offers the odd photo opportunity at sunrise or sunset. There are a few dive operations in town, plus a waterfall an hour's drive away that's swimmable. The sleepy colonial riverside resort of Kampot isn't too far away, with the strangely skeletal remains of seaside Kep further along. Sihanoukville is 232km (143mi) from the capital, and is served by regular buses.

Battambang

Cambodia's second-largest city is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country. Until recently Battambang was off the map for road travellers, but facilities have recently been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the nearby temples and villages. It's a secondary hub on the overland route between Thailand and Vietnam, and if National Hwy 6 from Poipet to Siem Reap is ever upgraded it'll become an even smaller hub. The network of charming old French shop houses clustered along the riverbank is the real highlight here, and there are a number of wats scattered around the town. The small museum has a collection of Angkorian-era artefacts, and beyond the town there's a number of hilltop temples, yet more wats and a large lake. Battambang is a pretty bumpy 293km (181mi) share-taxi ride from the capital, and there are flights every day except Tuesday.

Basic Info

The Culture