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The People

Early history: 1800 years ago, Cambodia was a kingdom of Indian settlers, called Kambuja. These Indians were called Khmers. The mighty Khmer Empire flourished over much of Southeast Asia during the 12th century. Angor Wat (the temple above), the largest religious building in the world, was built during this period, representing the power of the empire. Created by a succession of the kings glorifying their godlike power, the temples of Angkor Tom (which includes Angkor Wat) span nine square kilometers. Jayavarman VII built most of the temples during his reign from 1181-1220. He was the son of Suryavarman II, who built Angkor Wat itself.

Cambodians are very proud of their heritage - Angkor Wat is the national symbol of the country. Early art in these temples glorified Hindu gods, such as Hanuman (monkey god), Vishnu (creator god), and Shiva (god of war). Later, because Jayavarman VII's wife was Buddhist, images of Buddha and the Bodhisattva ( an individual whom Buddhists believe has reached enlightenment) began to appear. Temples were largely made of laterite, a volcanic stone.

Recent history: In the 1860's, Cambodia was colonized by France, but was granted independence in 1953. King Norodom Sihanouk ruled the country until he was overthrown by a group called the Khmer Rouge (red Khmer). These people were disgruntled elite intellectuals who dreamed of a one-class society such as China's. They set about a violent restructuring of Cambodian society, their goal being to change all citizens into peasants who lived on communal farms.

The leader of this regime was Pol Pot; he and his soldiers all but destroyed Cambodian culture. Vietnam invaded the country in 1978, forced Pol Pot to flee, and installed Hun Sen as prime minister. Hun Sen has fought to keep power and implement reform. King Sihanouk is still king, but his power is largely ceremonial. His son Ranariddh is head of the senate, which has less power than Hun Sen's parliament.

Cambodia remains one of the poorest countries in the world. People (about 80% of the population) mainly farm rice, work on rubber plantations, log, and fish for a living. People who live in urban areas such as Battambang, Phnom Penh, and Sihanoukville often sell crafts and food in market stalls. Among the poorest people are the hill tribes, not of Khmer descent like most of the population, who live in remote areas of the northeast. These people are subsistence farmers, eking out a meager existence in woven and thatched houses. Health in these areas is poor, and education nonexistent for many.

Population in millions: 11.4 (1998)
Density per sq. km: 64 (1998)
Fertility rate (per woman): 4.1 (1998)
Growth rate: 2.4% (1998) 
Per capita GDP: 297 (1997)
Life expectancy: 50M/59F (1995)
Infant mortality: 106 (1997)
Literacy rate: 74% (1993)

In the rice cultivation process, people make plants into sheaves before replanting. Casting nets in a productive fishing area in Baray, near Angkor Wat.
A woman and children winnow rice in a Phnong village. A hilltribe woman in Rattanakiri Province.
Fishing in the estuarial waters near Sihnanoukville, Ream National Park. A rubber plantation in Rattanakiri Province.

Children fishing with wooden traps.

Fishing on the Tonle Sap.

Oxen used for pulling wooden carts.

School on the Tonle Sap near Siem Reap.

Village on the Tonle Sap River near Phnom Penh.

Fishing village house on the Tonle Sap.

People in Cambodia today are trying to recapture their cultural traditions. Much of their culture was destroyed during the Pol Pot regime, when intellectuals were imprisoned and executed. It has been said that only one woman was left to costume Cambodian dancers. Mulberry trees, upon which silk worms thrive, were cut down, so the weaving industry went into extreme decline. Craftspeople, such as stone cutters, were forced to work on the farming collectives. Music was gone from people's lives, and traditional festivals were banned. Today, the Ministry of Culture is headed by one of King Sihanouk's daughters, Bopha Devi. Entire village populations, sponsored by international agencies, are weaving silk and cotton cloth. Temple restoration projects promote traditional stone carving businesses. Tourists can purchase tapes of Cambodian music. Religious traditions, grounded in Buddhism with Hindu influences, have been resurrected, and spiritual life is active in each village and city.

 

Apsaras, or celestial dancers, are found carved on temples, performing the same hand gestures as dancers use today. Princess Bopha Devi (on the left), Minister of Culture, has tea with the visiting Fulbright Study Tour group.

Traditional dancers spend years training to perform ancient ritualized dances. Dyed yarn hangs in weaving village.

 

Whole villages are devoted to weaving, with looms found under every house. Traditional weavers use the weft ikat method, known as "ho" in Khmer. Each strand is dyed in the selected pattern before weaving begins.

 

 

Stone carver in Siem Reap.

Naga, the seven headed snake, at the National Museum in Phnom Penh. Ancient Hindu influence on Cambodian spiritual lives is still strong.

Shadow puppet skin carving of dancers. Water buffalo hide is used to carve puppets for plays.

Band outside Ta Prohm Wat.

Taping a modern music video show at Ochatiel Beach in Sihanoukville. Traditional music with appreciative children.

Festival boatmen in the moat at Angkor Wat.

Festival boatmen in Phom Penh - the Cambodian Independence Day in November is celebrated throughout the country.

Statue of Buddha at Angkor Wat, clothed in traditional orange. Monks at Angkor Wat - males spend at least one month as monks during their lifetime learning Buddhist precepts.


Statue of Buddha surrounded with spirit flags.

The capitol city of Cambodia, Phnom Penh, became a virtual ghost town during the rule of Pol Pot. All citizens were forced to evacuate this former "jewel of Southeast Asia" to work on the farming collectives in the countryside. During this four year period, buildings were left to crumble, and services were suspended. Even after the fall of Pol Pot, there was much political instability as the current government was in its formative stages. With little money, restoration of Phnom Penh has proceeded slowly. Pictures below, which reveal Phnom Penh today, suggest a hint of former glory.

Aerial view of Phnom Penh at the junction of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers. The cheapest, and slowest, way to get around the city is the cyclo, a three wheeled bicycle rickshaw. Motos, or motorcycles, abound. Cars are becoming more plentiful, especially 1990 Toyota Camrys.

 

Night view of Japanese Bridge (reconstruction funded by the Japanese) in Phnom Penh. The Royal Palace is the home of King Sihanouk and his family, although he spends a great deal of time away at his other residence in Beijing, China.

National Museum, which is a treasure house of some of Cambodia's rescued history. French archeologists are training Cambodians in restoration techniques. The Hotel Royale is an example of restored French Colonial architecture. This hotel played an important part in the movie, The Killing Fields.
 


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