|
Week One Week Two Week Three Week Four Week Five Week Six Week eight Week nine Voyage Pictures
Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Monday 20th March Even well after dawn the moon is still clearly visible high in the sky to the west. Throughout our stay in Rio De Janeiro it lit up the night as if this famous city had some contract with God for its service. It was full then but now it has started to wane. It’s a beautiful morning with a gentle north-easterly breeze and a slight sea and swell. We are thirty miles off the Brazilian shore but nevertheless can see its bold steep pinnacles rising dramatically along the coast to the Northwest. The coast seems much more interesting compared to that which we encountered south of Rio De Janeiro. We are making over 15 knots, which is our target speed. Working against us the Brazilian current continues to try and set us to the Southwest. Our engines work hard and are giving us more than 16 knots through the water. If we can maintain this speed we may enter Fortaleza on the night of 23rd March. This would be advantageous, as we would have a full day on Friday to work with the Redemptorist Missionaries who have signalled a number of projects, which will need our help. The Brazilian Current is an extension of the South Equatorial Current, which is directed to the south and southwest when it hits this landmass. Where it is directed to the west northwest it is called the Guiana Current. We will gain advantage of the Guiana current later in the week when we round the northeast tip of South America at Cabo de Sao Rogue. Around midday we have Porto Victoria to the west together with its adjacent sister port of Porto do Tuberao. Together they are the largest ore exporting centres in Brazil and also one of the largest in the world. Brazil with its mainly Portuguese speaking population of over 169 million is the fifth largest country in the world and a country of contrasts. On the one hand having a hugely successful economy supported by chemical, textile, machinery and aircraft industries and on the other a level of poverty, which results in children living on the streets. It is also unique in that it is the only part of the world where there are large tracts of country virtually untouched by man. Its flora includes over 20000 species of trees many of which are unique to Brazil. Its fauna includes ant-eaters, tapir and humming birds and many other species peculiar to the country. Its waterways in particular the Rio Amazonnas teem with fish and reptiles. Along its coast I have encountered many protected areas where diving, fishing and other activities are prevented. The country seems to be taking steps to protect some of its delicate ecosystems such as its coral habitats. Much of the coast north towards Cabo de Sao Rogue is protected by coral reefs. The coral differs from the cold deep-water variety, Lophelia Pertusa, found off the west coast of Ireland. It also differs in that measures are already in place for its protection in Brazil whereas such measures are still under consideration in Ireland and will require support from the European Union. There is already evidence of damage to deep-water coral off the west coast of Ireland by anthropogenic activity. Onboard ship planning is in hand for our next port of call, which will be Fortaleza on the North east coast of Brazil. Here we will work with some Irish missioners as well as perform our normal diplomatic, military and cultural functions. All day e-mails shoot back and forth between our agents and LE Eithne and our Embassy in Brazilia. I plan to hold an officer’s forum on Wednesday at which we will review our progress to date and set out objectives for our final port of call. We must also look beyond that and our passage home and ensure that we are in all respects ready to undertake that voyage when we leave early next week. Normal onboard routine continues with each department maintaining and or delivering its own particular internal services. Our Petty Officer Sick Bay Attendant Matt Connolly is treating two young members of the crew who took too much sun. Earlier our engineering staff had to repair a fresh water leak on one of the main engines. A blocked pipe in the pantry is causing us some problems and will probably require that all of the stainless steel units will have to be removed. Gunnery staffs go through drills with newer members on the Rheinmetall 20 mm cannons. Officer’s of the watch continue to submit the regular meteorological reports to Met Eireann. I complete the daily Situation Report to Officer Commanding Naval Operations Command Captain (NS) James Robinson DSM and Commander Fleet Operations Commander Eugene Ryan. We approach familiar waters but this time our track will take us closer to shore. The Pampo Oil field looms ahead and already we see many of the oil platforms that act as shunts to help feed the world’s thirst for oil. For a while the sea turns to glass as the air becomes still and flying fish once again skim the surface. In the afternoon we adjust course towards Arquipelago dos Abrolhos where we will make our next major course alteration tonight. We last passed here one month ago on the 19th February. The course adjustment will bring us closer to shore to new waters in which we have not navigated before. New waters but old risks, unlit fishing vessels, coral shoals, coastal traffic and of course warnings of piracy. It is 2123 local time and the half moon is rising like a night-light to guide us on our way – more tomorrow.
Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Tuesday 21st March Throughout the night the ship is a hive of activity. The watch keeping Engine Room Artificers take regular rounds of the main engine room spaces. While they have most of the vital signs on the monitor in the Machinery Control Room (MCR) there are a number of important readings that they must take manually. For any ship the two greatest threats during normal operations are fire and flooding and probably the highest risk area for such an eventuality is in an engine room. When monitoring temperatures, pressures and fluid levels of the main engines and auxiliaries including generators and gearboxes the duty staff are also looking for any indicators that might suggest a potential problem. A slight hint of diesel oil weeping at a joint on a fuel line is not a disaster in itself but if not addressed immediately it could indicate an imminent parting of the line spraying fuel over the hot engine or worse still over a hot exhaust. The fuel, the heat of the exhaust and the oxygen in the air complete the fire triangle and within a fraction of a second a major fire could occur. Over the years the Naval Service has had a number of serious fires on its ships. Fortunately such has been the level of training and the competence of the individuals each fire has been successfully dealt with and no life or ship has been lost. At about 0530AM I hear the clink, clink of cups as the duty watch carry up the night feast to Lt Olan O’Keefe and the bridge watch. The MCR will have already taken their share, as will have the Main Communications Office (MCO). It is one of the nicest snacks in the world, sausages wrapped in toast dripping with real butter just before dawn. Overnight the waning moon has followed a trajectory that has brought it from our starboard (right hand side looking ahead) beam to our port (left hand side looking ahead) quarter. It has decreased even further in intensity compared to yesterday. The effects of its waning is exacerbated by the shading of the high cirrus clouds which like carded lambs wool stretch across the sky. Our progress continues to be good so we signal our revised Estimated Time of Arrival for Fortalesa to our Operations Headquarters and confirm our details to the Embassy and our Agent. Abeam to Port on the coastline is the city of Salvador, a city of 2.5 million and a former Capital of Brazil. A little further South is Morro Pernambuco where less than 200 years ago Admiral William Brown was forced to land some personal for provisions at a time when he was out of favour with the hierarchy in Argentina. At that time Brown would have followed a track very similar to ours reaching and occasionally tacking across the east northeast trade wind as he made his way north towards the Caribbean where near disaster awaited him. We will not go quite that far! The effects of the Brazilian current seem to be reducing as we now make more than 16 knots. Our track will keep us well offshore tonight but tomorrow we will close to within a few miles as we begin to round the northeast corner of Brazil. There, we will trade the influence of the Brazilian current for that of the Guiana current, which will be to our advantage. At this distance from the coast we have no difficulty in generating up to twelve tonnes of freshwater per day using our reverse osmosis plant. Each we use between ten and fourteen tonnes depending on whether the laundry plant is open or closed. The shortfall is mitigated by drawing from our onboard holding tanks, which allow us carry over ninty tonnes of fresh water, and occasionally by closing the laundry. Ahead we face a number of navigation warnings. Many relate to mobile drilling platforms some of which belong to Petrobras. An added complication with these platforms is that each has its anchors marked by unlit buoys, which may be up to three nautical miles from the platform. Where encountered we will have to give these platforms a wide berth. A second warning relates to a military manoeuvre and gunnery exercise extending over an area of 1000 square nautical miles of the northeast coast of Brazil. Our track will take us right through the area. To alter to seaward will add a significant dogleg to our planned route and the decision for the time being is to stand on. We will be prepared to alter as necessary once the precise nature of the exercise becomes clearer, however as the exercise is scheduled to terminate each evening at 2000 it is possible no alteration will be necessary. As the sun sets to the Southwest the sky is lit with wonderful shades of red and the first stars begin to show in the east. The moon is not set to rise until after 2200 and it will be even weaker than last night. A merchant vessel to our east, which we have been closing now for nearly 36 hours, is beginning to drop astern. Other than for this vessel it seems that we have this entire portion of the South Atlantic to ourselves. We are nearly 100 miles off the Brazilian coast now and the wind has dropped even further. I am expecting a quiet night – more tomorrow.
Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Wednesday22nd March I am called for the first time at 0200. The officer of the watch (OOW) SLt Kieran Carr reports that both himself and the lookout Leading Seaman Courtney Gibbons may have seen what appears to be a white flare fine off the starboard bow. I instruct him to double the lookouts and alter on to the bearing of the sighting. Meanwhile I fumble around putting on shorts and a tee shirt. I come to the bridge and find all hands of the watch on the bridge wings scanning the horizon. The moon is just about half and doing a good job. The wind is light so it should be possible to pick up a small boat either visually or on radar – but all is clear. The officer of the watch calls for the night vision equipment. He scans the horizon – he feels that we should have seen something by now. A white flare is used to call attention to something. Of course a small vessel with no red flares could be expected to use a white flare in distress. All these thoughts are running through our minds – should I go or should I stay. The officer of the watch is happy to concede that it may have been a falling star – and I appreciate that – I also appreciate that he called me. I would rather be on the bridge because of a faint possibility of something amiss than not to be told because of uncertainty. I think back to my younger days as a cadet responding to a Mayday out of Rosslare on a wild winters night. The report was that a vessel was taking water south of the Old Head of Kinsale. It was to be a long run for us in an old Ton class minesweeper. As we approached the Tuskar, for a moment floating directly south of the light, I could see a red star on the horizon – I mentioned it to the OOW who could see nothing. We carried on for over two hours into the southwesterly gale the waves breaking over the bridge – “Iron Men” in a wooden boat. Finally the coastal radio station crackles with “Mayday information number two” “vessel taking water found fifteen miles south of the Tuskar Rock, Irish Ferries Vessel standing by and rendering assistance no further help required”. Well the lessons were clear – 1. What I had seen was a red flare, 2. The vessel taking water didn’t know where he was and had mistaken Old Head of Kinsale Lighthouse for Tuskar Rk Lighthouse, 3. I should have been more forceful in what I saw and not allowed myself be dismissed. Back to tonight we are 60 miles off the coast of Brazil I instruct the OOW to reverse his course and we will give another half an hour to this search. We are all quite happy by now that it was most probably a falling star – but – we want to eliminate as much doubt as possible. I steer out the bridge window occasionally scanning the horizon through my telescopic pediopter. The plough is visible but it is upside down compared to how I usually view the constellation. It points to where the North Star should be, over the horizon, but off course it is not to be seen. With the night vision equipment, additional lookouts, and the search pattern we have conducted we are happy that there is nothing that requires our attention – so we resume course. For a while I am tempted to wait up and raid the night rations of the 12-04 watch. I know that this will go down like a lead balloon – well it certainly used to for me whenever a Captain came to the bridge and helped us with our night rations. I return to my bunk, restless, I am wide awake and can’t sleep – all off a sudden it seems just after 6am the engines are cavitating severely as they have been brought from ahead to stop suddenly. My sound powered telephone rings. It is Ensign Sean Linehan – we have lost all power – for a second time I fumble around looking for a tee shirt and shorts. The ship is silent except for the sound of a variety of alarms, each screaming for attention – fire alarm alert indicates it is feeding of the 24 volt system, the steering gear alarm indicates there is no power to the motors, the stabilisers alarm and the fins lock. A plethora of other systems have also shut down but they don’t scream for attention, main lighting, air conditioning, air supply fans to mention but a few. Within a minute power is back on the board and the engines are brought back on line. Lt Cdr Tony Heery reports that while paralleling generators Able Engine Room Artificer Dave Culliton inadvertently uses the manual paralleling switch as opposed to the automatic one – we are all learning lessons today. I go back to my bunk – but I’ll never sleep now. Throughout the day we prepare for our Officer’s Forum. The agenda is drawn up. The main items include a “wash-up” on Rio De Janeiro, overview and requirements for Fortalesa and a review of the services we will supply and finally a look ahead to our return to Cork. In the galley the chefs are preparing for a Bar B Q on the flight deck. Besides being a novelty for the ship’s company this also allows for the engineering staff to work on some blocked piping which runs from the wardroom pantry, through the galley, through the accommodation before it angles into the ship’s grey water system. The job turns out to be a nightmare. On opening the pipe a thick viscous discharge spoils one of the cabins making it un-inhabitable. Fortunately the coxswain has alternative accommodation for the discommoded chefs and logistics personnel. It seems that the Bar-B-Q is not going to go so well either. The chefs have done a great job. Even a Brazilian Naval Vessel calls us up, curios about our intentions. We are lining up for our steaks, sausages, burgers, and a variety of salads when the heavens open and we must all run to the hangar - Murphy’s law. We settle - those who want drag a wet chair in off the flight deck some even carry in a table on which to leave their dinner while they get a chair – big mistake! No sooner are they on the move than the officer of the watch is forced to make a bold alteration. The ship heels to Port throwing plates, chairs, and some of the chefs best salads on to the deck. I am running to the bridge thinking the worst. I needn’t have bothered for in the poor visibility to avoid some inappropriately marked fishing gear the officer of the watch SLt Patricia Butler did as she was trained – and she was right. Just for three minutes it is like the west coast of Ireland on a normal day. Everyone is in good humour tidying up – everyone except the shipwrights Petty officer Tom Kennedy and LS Declan Tagdh and engineering staff Petty Officer Sammy Leahy and Chief petty Officer Fergie Heaton who are still trying to unblock the pipes below decks.
Other than occasional videos we have had no television since before the Canaries. Starting this deployment many of us thought that the simple things we used to value, a game of 45 or a quiz would be sufficient to ensure a good evenings entertainment for most of the crew. Well not quite so, we had 12 players for our 45 drive last night which Lt Cdr Aedh McGinn and Able Electrician Rory Galvin were lucky to win. Many of the other members of the ship’s company were playing their X Box, Playstation 2 and a plethora of other games that I cannot spell. It seems to me the only game with sufficient fascination for a full turn out of the ship’s company is that physically and psychologically demanding sport of darts. It is time to start our next league. For me I am looking forward to a good nights sleep– will I get one - who knows!
Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Thursday 23rd March We wake heading west northwest along the Brazilian coast. The Guiana current is helping us along the way and at times we are doing more than 17 knots. Fishermen in their tiny punts like the rain have not gone away. They continually pop up at such a rate that it is necessary to maintain two lookouts almost continually. I think of the night before. The thundershowers continued through the night. Heavy torrential downpours, blanking our radars and reducing visibility to less than 50 metres. As if this is not bad enough, every now and then a six or seven metre open fishing boat would come drifting by with three, four and even more occupants oblivious to the risk they were taking. We reduced our speed, lookouts were closed up on both bridge wings and the night vision equipment was used to scan ahead. The effectiveness of the night vision equipment is quite remarkable. Time and again it has proved its utility in special operations. Also in the case of routine service provision when despatching a boarding/surveillance team over a long distance it can enable the boat coxswain see his objective at a greater range. When looking for static fishing gear it can always be relied upon to show the marker lights first. The equipment we use is a passive device, which works on the principle of light intensification – taking in ambient light and amplifying it by between one and two thousand times. It is fortunate that most of these open boats are brightly coloured providing just enough of a contrast for the equipment to do its job. With the thundershowers also comes the lightning – just like a Hollywood movie. Most of us have never seen anything like this in home waters. Fortunately the wind is not gusting too much. Humidity is so high that it will play tricks on us later in the night. The first fire alarm sounds just after 1am. The indication points to the Junior Ratings mess area. The officer of the watch rings to say he has sent the watch on deck to investigate. There is no fire and it seems that a manual alarm switch has mysteriously triggered. The system is reset. At 3am the alarm again sounds – the watch on deck investigates. Again there is no fire but the system cannot be reset. Finally the Chief Electrician Fergus Heaton isolates the switch. After some time investigating the fault, it appears that the high humidity is causing the switch to activate. Throughout the day we prepare for Fortalesa. On the final approaches the marquee is put up decide not to decorate our area until we are sure the rain has stopped. Foortalesa is the Capital of the State of Ceara in Brasil. Metropolitan Fortalesa has a population of about 3 million. There is a small colony of Irish Citizens mainly centred around the Redemptorist Mission. The mission was established in 1960 and has four centres. The work of the mission includes parish, hospital and development work particularly in poorer communities. We expect to meet with Fr Brendan Meagher and some of his colleagues including Fr Tadhg Herbert. Tadhg has two brothers in the Army. We have agreed with Fr Brendan to host visits from a number of children’s groups. Tomorrow (Friday) we will host a visit from Special Needs children. Senior Petty Officer Sam Fealy is already organising the party for this group. Lt Cdr Tony Heery our engineer will also travel with Fr Brendan to assess some work he requires assistance with in his parish. A work party from the ship’s company will travel to the Parish on Saturday. The Parish is about 10 miles from the city centre. While we will have plenty of technical assistance available Fr Brendan has indicated that he will also need painters. The aim will be to restore the home of one his poorer parishioners who’s house collapsed. On Monday we will host two children’s groups.
We berth alongside pier 2 in Fortalesa. The rain showers continue to threaten us but we don’t mind. It is very warm. We have a busy day ahead of us on Friday so we take it easy – charging our batteries and enjoying the friendliness of what has been described as probably one of the nicest Ports in South America. More tomorrow…..
Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Friday 24th March The day starts with a call of Protocol on the Senior Naval Officer of Fortalesa. Our number one uniforms are certainly not suited to this equatorial climate. By the time I get there the sweat is pouring out of me. Fortunately the office is air-conditioned. The Captain is only recently appointed and amongst his many responsibilities he explains he carries out accident investigations at sea. On the wall of his office is a huge painting of one of the small boats unique to this area. We talk about these small boats and I can feel a sense of pride as the Captain talks about the courage and spirit of the men who go out in them. The boats are flat bottomed, with virtually no freeboard, no engine, no cabin and they rely on what looks like an insubstantial gaff rigged sail for propulsion. I explain how we have encountered so many all along the coast. He confirms that some are regularly lost. After the call it is back to the ship to meet the media. One TV station and two local papers are waiting. There is a low groundswell entering the port and LE Eithne is moving quite a bit on the berth. This may pose problems for us tomorrow at the reception. If there is much interest in the open day it may also be an issue. One of the journalists is afraid to come onboard but eventually is coaxed; being convinced that it is quite safe. The questions focus mainly on the purpose of the visit. Fortunately Fr Brendan Meagher has arrived and he helps with the translation. By the time the press leave the guests are arriving for lunch. They include representatives from the Local Authority. The Commandant of the Naval College, the Honoury British Consul and her husband who is also the Honoury Swedish and Norwegian consul. Lunch is great and as this will be the last formal lunch before we leave I invite our Petty Officer Chef Eddie Staunton to meet the guests. Lunch finishes at 1430. Just as our lunch guests depart special needs guests arrive. There are over twenty and they vary in age between seven years of age up to late thirties. They are shown all of the ship and then are brought to the hangar and marquee area for a party. They seem to be very happy. As always, the language barrier, although initially an issue, melts away as the visit progresses. Shortly before they depart the ships company distribute some presents, which are gratefully received. |
|
|
|
|
With all commitments completed for the day some of us go ashore later in the evening where we meet friends, from Ireland in a typical Brazilian Bar/Restaurant. The venue, known as Boteco, is recommended by our ship’s agent Francesca, Solange and others. The food is outstanding and the music even better.
With its equatorial climate and very modest property pricing it is not surprising to hear that Fortaleza in quickly becoming one of Ireland’s overseas focal points for property investors. Indeed the warmth and friendliness of the local population are likely to combine to make this our last Port of call one of the more enjoyable visits of the deployment. Tomorrow however we have a major job to undertake in conjunction with the Redemptorist Missions. It will be an early start and those of us on the work detail call it an early night …but do we do it in time...more tomorrow.
Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Saturday 25th March
|
|
|
As we prepare for the job we are to undertake we learn of some of the issues, which affect buildings in equatorial regions. By far one of the most damaging creatures is the tiny termite, which infests building foundations, walls and roofs – weakening trusses to the extent that they eventually collapse. We are introduced to Joannah, the lady whose house we are about to transform. She is there with her husband and two children. She is crying. Her house fell down on her and her family in the past few months and her mother died. They were destitute. She explains she had not the money to buy one roof tile. Fr Brendan Meagher and the Redemptorist mission responded to her plight and the Parish set about rebuilding her home. Our “meitheal” will give one day to bringing the project closer to conclusion. I am able to make a small contribution of a couple of hundred dollars to Fr Brendan to help cover the paint costs. It is the last of the money, which I received from the Naval Association. Two and a half thousand dollars goes along way in South America. So far it has paid for transport for numerous visits of sick, abused and disadvantaged children. It has covered the proper sighting of the new generator for the remote school up the Parana River. It has helped with the repair of the shelter for the street children of Rio De Janeiro and now it will brighten the life for this family.
Before long we are stirring the paint – what have we walked ourselves into. The paint is as thick as hardwall – I have never seen anything like it. You’ll be ok, Fr Brendan quips, this is what we use down here its great tac! We don’t know whether to trowel it or paint it. The experts have a huddle – we’ll have to water it down, for the first coat at least. If that is not bad enough – it is nearly the same colour as the unpainted wall finish. So we stir and mix and paint and stir and mix and paint – it is no cakewalk. Some of our team switch to helping with the wiring. For the first four hours it looks like we have done nothing. I am beginning to think I must have loads to do on the ship. Maybe people will want the journal updated for yesterday and today and besides my back hurts. At 1300 our lunches arrive from the ship – cold chicken salad and cans of club orange – just what we need. I wonder if I make a break for it now would the rest of the team notice – I conclude they probably will – especially when I discover that most are of the same frame of mind as myself. We get stuck into the job again. Maybe it is the food but the paint is going on more easily. It is the second coat. The colour is lightening up – it is different to the wall. We are making a difference. By 5pm we are finishing. Now we are on a tight schedule. Tonight, with His Excellency Martin Green the Irish Ambassador to Brazil we will host the official reception. First however we have rollers and brushes to wash – the penalty of painting. Before we go Joannah comes back with her husband and two children. We explain that we painted all of her house inside. We have varnished the doors and shutters and painted the front. We can do no more. Again she cries and explains it is a miracle. Well if it is, then it is the Redemptorist Missionaries who have made it so with some support from Trocaire. To some degree we feel like charlatans. We have come in at this late stage of the project and with a lick of paint we are sharing the accolade for the work of others. In fairness, however, the members of LE Eithne’s ship’s company have put in a hard day’s work supporting the Irish Catholic missionary network. It is a commitment we had given to Father Paul Tighe and Father Pat Donoghue. We siad we would try and fulfil it and we have done just that. It helps reinforce the model that we have wanted to prove, that the flexibility of a Naval Ship is such that it has great utility in support of not just government diplomatic, military and economic objectives in the international domain. It also has utility in furthering humanitarian objectives, where necessary in support of Non Governmental Organisations including Ireland’s well-established and reputable international missionary network. As we mount our bus the children are all around us giving us high fives or the Brazilian equivalent, which is a slide of the palm and a gentle knock of the fists. Before long we are on the way back to the ship and again most of us doze not noticing the reverse transformation from poverty to wealth. The guests start to arrive fifteen minutes early. Ambassador Green and his wife have flown in from Brasilia to host the reception. LE Eithne is moving moderately on the berth because of the ground swell. It is making things a little more difficult. With our speeches over I enjoy a cold can of Beamish. We were fortunate to get the support of Beamish for the trip. Our Band “Hercules” strikes up – they are better than ever. Some think that this will be their last performance – if it is it will be a sin. They have brought so much happiness to all our receptions and I know we have more work to do relating to the Admiral Brown project when we return to Ireland. The offloading and unveiling of the Statue of Brown on Sir John Rogerson’s quay will be an important event. As we chat the Ambassador explains that on his flight from Brasilia the Brazilian Minister for Culture was also on the plane. He regrets not knowing this because he would have invited the Minister if he had known he was to be in Fortalesa. This is not just any minister. He, Gilberto Gil, is one of the most popular music Stars in Brazil. What a combination he would have made with our band “Hercules”
As the reception finishes we go our own ways. I am fit for the bunk but I probably will never be in Fortalesa again. I go to a concert – the lead singers name is Preta she is brilliant. She is joined on stage by her father Gilberto Gil the minister for culture – where would you get it… maybe in Longford….more tomorrow!
LE EITHNE - DAILY JOURNAL
Captain’s Journal LE EITHNE – Sunday 26th March Our day starts with an exchange of salutes with the Venezuelan Warship ARBV “Mariscal.Sucre”. Commissioned in 1980 she displaces over 2500 tonnes full load and boasts a remarkable speed of over 35 knots. Her machinery plant is a CODOG (Combination of Diesel or Gas) arrangement, which means she can either use her gas turbines for high speed sprint interdictions or her diesel plants for cruising speed passage. Her combat suite, including SSM (surface to surface missiles), SAM (surface to air missiles), 5inch OTO Melara main gun, Anti Submarine Torpedoes, and a plethora of secondary weapon systems, Electronic surveillance measures (ESM), FCS (Fire Control Systems), sonar and radar, is such that she is crew heavy requiring a complement of 185 personnel. This is three times our normal crew. She is following a route remarkably similar to ours but needs to take fuel more regularly than we do so she will have one-day refuelling stops in both Fortaleza and Rio De Janeiro before starting her diplomacy duties. She will visit Mar Del Plata, Montevideo and both Rio De Janeiro and Fortaleza for a second time – spending about four days in each port. The Captain of the ship Capitan de Fragata Edglis Herrera Balza sends his representative to call on me with a formal note in Spanish. In the note, which I ask Leading Seaman Rachael Calopy to translate, he reinforces the mutual respect that exists between navies and the importance of fostering ties at a time when there is a rush towards greater integration of society worldwide. In return I personally call on him and present him with our ship’s crest and a copy of the Philip Grey print of LE Eithne “With Spirit and Courage”. Rachael accompanies me to do the translation. Of her crew of 185 there is one female - the doctor. Walking along the quay back to LE Eithne I have time to study the layout of the Port. While the principal city is called Fortaleza, the Port is called Mucuripe. Salange explains that this is also the name of the venue where the Minister for Culture Gilberto Gil played the concert with his daughter Preta last evening. Molhe de Mucuripe protects the harbour on the left. A breakwater, Quebra-mar do Futuro projects out to the right. Under normal circumstances with a prevailing South Easterly Trade wind the protection is adequate. At this latitude, however, this wind becomes unreliable between February and May resulting in ships occasionally being blown onto the berth. With the harbour open to any swell from the west, through north to east this can be a problem and it is occupying my mind as I walk back to my ship. Throughout the afternoon we are inundated with hundreds of visitors from Fortaleza. Even when the heavens open with a torrential downpour the visitors are not deterred. I suppose unlike home what is the problem if you get soaked and the ambient temperature is 29 degrees centigrade! At one stage the marquee resembles a waiting area for contestants queuing for a wet t-shirt competition, not that I have ever been at one. Anyways I retire to my cabin to cool down and catch up on the journal. The low ground swell is continuing to cause us problems on the berth. I think we should not stay on this berth any longer than is absolutely essential. Our last event will conclude tomorrow afternoon with a visit by two children’s groups organised by Father Brendan Meagher. We may have no option but to sail shortly after that. The decision can wait until the morning – but it has to be made and I know that some of the crew will be disappointed just as some will be happy to be heading home. I have contracted with the crew to have them home at the Naval Base with their families at 1200 on Friday 07 April. In seven or eight days time few will remember sailing ten hours early from Fortaleza but all will remember my promise. The forecast weather conditions on our route home will off course also influence that decision. As we near the end of our time in South America I think it is appropriate to capture just some of the very positive comments you have sent to our e-mail address at captain@eithne.amosconnect.com . Between now and tomorrow I will assemble an addendum to my normal report in which I will include some of your comments. I would like to thank you for your continued support and if I have not responded yet to your questions I will try and do so in the next few days. I have also received a copy of the alternative diary, which my colleagues in the Naval Service have been maintaining. The skills of the author put me in the halfpenny place – even if I am the Captain!
|
We arrive at just after 0930. It is nearly one hour from the ship so some like me slept most of the way. We occasionally caught glimpses of the gentle decline from the sophistication of the “leggo” brick office, hotel and apartment complex which occupy the coastal strip of Fortalesa, to the poorer Favelas in which we are to spend our day working.
Fr Brendan Meagher, in his small car, lead us here. Yesterday Lt Cdr Tony Heery agreed the work program and then returned to the ship and “press ganged” our team for the commitment. All around us children stare at – “gringo” martians from another continent with paint buckets, ladders, rollers. We look like we know what we are doing. All I can think is the number of painting jobs I have at home and the difficulty I am going to have explaining my ability to make myself available for painting here. I am not the only one thinking this. We are lucky to have a couple of experts in our midst. Petty Officer Tom Kennedy is a professional painter as well as a carpenter. Ensign Sean Lenihan’s family are also in the trade so some of the required skills rubbed off on Sean before he joined the Service.
