DE-CODING BEAUTY

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Braving beauty counters would be easy if you had your own personal scientist! There’s liposomes, ceramides and all sorts of buzzwords to deal with.  So what does it all mean? If you need skin products, says Anna Magee don’t even think about going shopping without U’s guide to beauty lingo…

Performers - Ingredients to look out for

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Antioxidants - Vitamins A, C and E, and other ‘star’ ingredients like Green Tea and Pine Bark.  Anti-oxidants fight free-radicals in the skin which contribute to accelerated ageing - that’s why they’re sometimes referred to as the ‘scavengers’ of free radicals.  In low concentrations they really only act as preservatives in skin creams, but beauty companies are now adding them to creams in high percentages with the aim of protecting the skin against further ageing.

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Lancome’s Vitabolic with Vitamin C £37.50

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Primordiale with vitamin E £25 also from Lancome

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Givenchy’s Firm profile with Green Tea and Vitamin E anitoxidants £38

AHAs - Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (sometimes called ‘Fruit Acids’).  Creams and lotions containing these speed up exfoliation of dead cells from the skin’s surface. Proven to make the skin look smoother and brighter, they often take the form of glycolic (from sugarcane) or citric (from citrus fruits) acid but also come from red wine (malic acid), papaya (pyruvic acid) and milk (lactic acid).  Tread carefully, high concentrations have been known to cause irritation.

BHAs - Beta-Hydroxy Acids.  A milder alternative if AHAs irritate your skin, they do the same thing, only in a gentler way. Usually take only one form - Salicylic acid (from willow bark, where aspirin comes from).

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Best Buy:

L’Oreal’s  Plenitude Turning Point with BHAs £9.49

Retinol - Cream form of vitamin A, a highly researched ingredient. Retinol is a less potent version of retinoic acid, a prescription only vitamin A cream that’s proven effective in fighting sun-damaged skin (and oddly enough for acne).  Usually sold as Retin-A (or Renova), it’s very strong and can cause flaking and irritation.  Retinol has a similar action to Retin-A in speeding up cell renewal, smoothing fine lines and brightening skin tone but it’s a slower, more gentle process, with far less risk or irritation - and you don’t need a prescription. If you’re concerned about premature wrinkles, try an over-the-counter treatment like Prescriptives LSW £38. Retinol is best used at night - if you’re wearing it during the day, be sure to wear a high sunscreen.

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L’oreal’s Plenitude Line Eraser £10.99

Pro-Vitamin B5 - The active ingredient in Pantene.  And it’s not just marketing hype - tests indeed show there’s no doubt pro-vitamin B5 - also known as Panthenol - can penetrate the hair strand.  If in doubt, try  the new Pantene Essentials conditioning range (available at Dunnes), it’s amazing!

Coming To Terms With Terms

Liposomes - Tiny spheres, first developed to act like ‘delivery men’ of active ingredients into the system via the skin. Company’s now use high-tech methods to fill them with active ingredients in the hope that they’ll deliver them deep beneath the skin’s surface.   Sometimes companies have their own exclusive ‘carriers’ like ‘nanospheres’ or ‘nanocapsules’ that can also ‘deliver active ingredients into the skin in a similar war.

Collagen - Natural collagen lies under the top layer of the skin (somewhere most cosmetics can’t reach!) giving it flexibility and elasticity. As we get older, skin’s natural collagen diminishes so beauty companies fall over themselves to replace it!  Collagen can make a great moisturiser (and can even be implanted into skin to plump up the appearance of fine lines) but there is no evidence to prove that it really can penetrate the skin’s surface.

Ceramides - These are also found naturally in skin so science has created a ‘synthetic’ version to put on the face.  Although they’ve been shown to penetrate the skin where other ingredients can’t, what they do when they get there is yet to be proven.  As a moisturiser they improve the skin’s natural protective barrier.

Hypo-allergenic - Means the product is less likely to cause allergy but it’s not a guarantee it won’t.  Such products are made using less of the stuff that is known to cause allergic reactions like colours, alcohol, fragrances and preservatives.  Remember though that someone, somewhere could still get an allergy from it.

Non-comodogenic and Non-acnegenic - less likely to cause breakout (comedones is med-speak for blackheads or whiteheads).  While formulators have left out ingredients that are likely to block pores, again, this is no guarantee that someone might not get a pimple from using it!

Anti-ageing - Means in one way or another the product protects against the ageing and damaging effects of UV radiation. But unless it contains SPF15, it shouldn’t take the place of a good sunscreen.

Anti-wrinkle - Has a smoothing effect on the skin which reduces the appearance of wrinkles (this does not mean it will remove wrinkles!)

SUN-Speak - Essential Knowledge

Broad-Spectrum - The most important word in sunscreen language.  It means the sunscreen protects both from UVA and UVB rays - both of which can cause damage to your skin.  When shopping for sunscreen look for Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB Protection.

UVA rays - these are the sun’s ageing rays. 

UVB rays - these are the sun’s burning rays

SPF - We’ve heard it a million times over - Sun Protection Factor.  But do you know what that means?  If your skin normally goes red and burns after ten minutes in the sun and your sunscreen says SPF15, in theory you should be able to stay in the sun for 150 minutes (10 x 15) before burning.  By ‘sun’, we mean outdoors in general.  Damaging UVA rays are present in rain, hail and shine!

More Info?

Still confused?  Well too bad - just kidding - you can contact the Irish Cosmetics & Toiletries Association with specific ingredient or terminology queries or ask for an information leaflet to be posted out to you.

58 Blackthorn Road

Sandyford Industrial Estate

Dublin 18

Ph:(01) 295 4480

Fax::(01) 295 3944

Email:icta@oriflame.ie

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Types Of Sunscreen

In the past, chemical sunscreens were all the rage as they worked by absorbing UV  rays on the skin’s surface but sometimes these can cause allergic reactions.  Scientists have now discovered ways of using zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (white powders that make up the ‘white stripe’ sunscreen variety) to create physical sunscreens without making us look like an extra from Zulu Warriors!  They now grind the powders very finely and mix them with other ingredients like antioxidants and softeners so they can sit on the surface of the skin and protect it while also being invisible.  If you’re skin is sensitive, it’s best to look for a physical sunscreen.  And remember the magic words: SPF15+ - don’t leave home without it - on your face!

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Top Tips For Beauty Shopping

[Optional Shots- Chanel Precision - caption]

Science Rules:  New ‘Precision’ skincare from Chanel was developed in conjunction with a ‘laboratory without walls’ - a global scientific network of top scientists, dermatologists and cosmetic researchers.

BEAUTY SHOOL

Simply lying back and wallowing in facial/massage/manicure land is paradise.  But if you’ve got particular beauty concerns, it’s best to know what you’re having done. In a quick beauty therapy tutorial, Head Tutor at the Coogan Bergin School Of Beauty Therapy, Sonia O’Dwyer gave Anna Magee the lowdown on salon-speak.  Like us, you might be surprised at how much you didn’t know!

Finding Out - Make a few calls and ask about treatments.  “It’s important to talk to your therapist, or to various ones if you need to and know what your having done,” says O’Dwyer, “It’s very rare for a therapist to turn down a genuine inquiry - if she’s busy just at that time, ask her to call you back.”  Here are just some salon therapies deciphered:

Parraffin Wax - A very soft wax that liquifies when heated.  Used in conjunction with rich oils and lotions in hand and foot treatment or facials, parraffin wax is best on very dry areas (like the hands and feet).  Rich moisturisers are placed on the area then covered in the heated, liquid wax, which solidifies on contact with the air - and left on for fifteen minutes. This seals the moisturiser onto the skin while the wax’s heat also encourages perspiration to be absorbed back into the skin - great for moisturisation.  Skin feels like silk afterwards, great if you want your skin to look pumped up and moisturised before a night out. 

Infra-Red Lamps - For facials, they are used to maintain the heat of a mask.  More commonly though, infra-red lamps are used before body treatments like massage over areas of tension in the shoulders and back.  The heat relaxes the muscle fibres before treatment so the skin is heated up and prepared for massage.

High-Frequency Treatment - A glass electrode is used - it’s that tingly instrument they sometimes use on your face during facials - to stimulate a sluggish circulation and help to dry out an oily skin.  Better for an oily/combination skin. 

Waxes - While the type of wax a therapist uses varies from salon to salon, the basic principle of waxing is always the same.  It’s a temporary removal of hair, from the root which lets the hair grow back fine-ended, so it doesn’t have the coarse feel that you get from shaving. Wax varieties include cream waxes which are usually pink, yellow or pale green and opaque or organic waxes which are transparent and have the consistency of honey.  If you know you have sensitive skin, tell your therapist and she’ll ensure that wax temperature is kept low throughout the treatment.  She may also do a patch test in which a small amount of wax is put on the inside of the arm or leg then removed.  After that you’ll go home and allow 24-48 hours to see how the skin reacts.  Some redness and dotting is natural but that should subside within 1-2 days - if it doesn’t, you might need a different type of wax.

There are two methods therapists use: warm wax which is the type where a light film is applied to the leg and removed using cloth strips - ouch!  And hot wax which is much thicker, and more resonous like beeswax. It’s applied slightly thicker to the skin, dries in seconds and is pulled off  - double, no triple ouch!  Although painful, hot wax is most effective in removing coarse stubborn, deep-rooted hair from areas like bikini line and underarms.  Although many Irish salons offer it as an option, it’s more popular in mediterranean countries like Spain where people’s hair by nature is coarser and thicker.  If you have a tendency towards ingrown hairs and quite coarse hair, it’s worth investigating the possibility of having hot wax treatment - this might be more expensive and more painful - but possibly more beneficial in the long term.  Ask your therapist.

Chemical Peels - These are a highly concentrated dose of chemicals like AHAs and others to remove dead skin build up from the surface of the skin.  “They must be done by someone qualified,” O’Dwyer says, “so don’t think you’ll have the same effect if you just use more of your AHA cream - it doesn’t quite work that way.”  Sometimes skin peels are used on an acne-scarred skin.  If your skin is showing signs of dullness, a mild peel might make a great pick-me-up.  Stronger chemical peels, however are used for people more concerned about wrinkling, sun-damage and pigmentation.  “It’s a rapid exfoliant, but make sure you’re therapist is experienced,” says O’Dwyer.

Facials - Usually involve cleansing and toning, a therapeutic mask - usually characterised  by the type of facial you’re having - steam therapy and extractions if necessary (removing blackheads - remember, professionals only, don’t try this at home) - followed by that luxurious massage.

“Aromatherapy facials are very popular today, as de-stressing the skin is a big concern” O’Dwyer says. In aromatherapy the prescribed essential oils are used throughout the facials in steam and products.

At Coogin Bergin Marine Products are the emphasis of some of the facial varieties on offer. The MMA (Micronised Marine Algae) facial basically uses seaweed to detoxify the skin and kickstart  a sluggish circulation, while also regulating oil.  The skin is then massaged using a fruit extract which contains vitamin P and K found in the rind and pulp of citrus fruits and raspberries.  This helps prevent broken capillaries, a huge problem for Celtic skin.  According to O’Dwyer, for detoxifying and purifying effect you can’t beat marine extracts (the basis of Thalgo cosmetics).

Kaolin Masks are sometimes used in facials. A type of clay, kaolin is an old fashioned but effective ingredient used on acne-prone skin to lift impurities and deep cleanse.  You can also get over the counter kaolin in the form of Mudd Masks and others.

Swedish Body Massage is the basis of all massage and involves five basic movements including effleurage - the lightest touch and petrissage - a deep kneading.  Great for tension, boosting circulation and dissolving waste products like lactic acid build up that creates those awful knots we get in tense spots.  If you’re booking a massage, be specific about your needs, you may want a relaxing massage, a deep, stimulating or invigorating one,  you might have a particularly sore spot  or be concerned about cellulite.  Once again talk to your therapist.

Vacuum Suction is used as a cellulite treatment in which a vacuumed cup sucks up the skin as it moves along it and encourages the skin’s circulation to drain waste products (that can cause cellulite) from the area.  Another great way to get this effect is to exercise! 

Faradic Treatment is passive muscle exercise and more commonly known as one of it’s brand names, SlenderTone. Although not a replacement for exercise and a good diet Sonia says SlenderTone is a great way of starting or re-starting an exercise program. Pads are placed all over the body on the different muscle groups and the faradic current from the machine works to simultaneously contract and relax the muscles.  “You will not lose weight from this treatment,” says O’Dwyer “but it will tone the muscles.  In  conjunction with exercise, it’s great.”   Ten sessions  are required and you have it done up to three times a week.  Afterwards though, maintenance requires exercise and a good diet (Is there no escape from those two words???). Supplemented with regular abdominal exercises, faradic treatment is also good for spot-toning your tummy if you’ve just had a baby.

Electrolysis - also known as diathermy, is permanent hair removal that works by cutting off the blood supply to the hair.  “But it doesn’t happen overnight,” O’Dwyer stresses, “as it’s a hair-by-hair treatment it takes time and patience”.  Electrolysis is great for small areas like the eyebrows or upper lip.  In some rare instances there may be a hormonal balance in your skin and electrolysis doesn’t work.  In such cases you could see your doctor who may recommend seeing an endocrinologist (gland and hormone specialist).   About £9.95 for 15 minutes, it usually takes up to six months of weekly sessions before you see a dramatic difference.

Eye Crystal Treatment - Treatment for tired or puffy eyes.  An opthamologically tested single eye treatment that also includes a cleanse, massage and gentle ‘enzyme peel’ which uses one of the most gentle forms of AHA - pyruvic acid from papaya - and a cooling eye mask.  “If I could recommend one treatment to your readers, this would be it.  It will be the best £18.50 they ever spend.”

For further information, or to try some of these treatments contact The Coogin-Bergin Clinic & College Of Beauty Therapy, 6-8 Wicklow St, Dublin 2, Telephone: (01) 679 4254.

THE BEAUTY MEDICS - Do You Need One?

Dentist or Orthodontist - Buck, yellow or missing teeth are not just a health problem and having them fixed will make you feel a whole lot better about yourself.  Crowns, bridges, implants, braces, even dentures mean that you don’t have to live with the self-consciousness of less-than-perfect teeth.

Chiropodist - Deal with every aspect of feet from bunions to athlete’s foot.  They can also detect if your feet are contributing to more serious problems with your legs or back.  Although you don’t have to, it’s best to ask your doctor for his/her recommendation.

Dermatologist - Dermis is the Greek word for skin and so a dermatologist is a medical professional who deals with the diagnosis and treatment  of all skin disorders.  Your GP is able to write you a referral.

Plastic Surgeon - There are two types of surgery a plastic surgeon can perform:  Cosmetic surgery which aims to improve appearance, like eyelifts and breast implants and Reconstructive surgery which deconstructs damaged or deformed body parts that might have got that way through accidents, burns or birth defects.  If you’re looking for either, ask your doctor for a referral to someone.  Such a recommendation is much safer than relying on glamourous magazine or internet ads which can be misleading and often dodgy.

Trichologist - Trichologists deal with all aspects of the hair and scalp and they treat conditions like excessive hair loss, damaged and broken hair and dandruff.  Although you don’t need a referral to see one, it’s best to consult The UK Institute Of Trichologists on 0044 8706 070 602 (or email: trichologists@ambernet.co.uk) to find someone experienced and reputable.

Anna Magee

copyright ANNA MAGEE 1999

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