Yamaha FJ1200 Restoration Project

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Cosmetic, Cycleparts &

Bodywork



This is possibly my biggest challenge in getting my FJ to a state where friends will stop ribbing me about it, let alone me loving it again. Just where to start causes headaches. For all the work up to this stage, the bike will have to have been almost completely stripped anyway, so it's going to be a matter of working on the parts while they're off the bike. Obviously that's a good thing. I guess the "right" way to do it, in the Pirsig sense, would be to address cycleparts first, then bodywork, then cosmectics (by which I mean trim parts, and work on parts that don't actually perform an operational function).
So here we go...


Pardon the limitations of my personal skills & image-manipulation software, but this might be a little like I hope my FJ will turn out. Sort of.


There are a lot of parts on the bike that need to be repaired or replaced, either due to damage or wear, or simply because I'd like newer or fancier parts. At the risk of boring those with only a casual interest in this project, but to ensure that those of you that are interested are satisfied, I'm going to list all those parts.

Top  Cycleparts  Bodywork  Cosmetic


Cycleparts

  • Telefix Profi black adjustable handlebars.
    • - One of my highsides resulted in a bent left handebar. The Telefix replacement pair costs less than the single Yamaha replacement!
  • ProGrip 699 black gel bargrips.
  • Piaggio Sfera moped mirrors.
    • - The FJ mirrors are second only to the horn for uselessness.
  • New throttle, choke, speedometer & tachometer cables.
  • Black front mudguard extender.
    • - To keep the crud off my painted exhaust downpipes & new oil cooler.
  • New passenger footrests & left rider footrest rubber.
  • Renntec stainless steel replacement chainguard.

Top  Bodywork  Cosmetic


Bodywork

  • The upper fairing & fuel tank need major repair work, which I'll attempt, then probably fail, to fix myself before I farm out the work, or I'll have to buy better second hand, or even (worst case) new parts.

Top  Cycleparts  Cosmetic


Cosmetic

  • I might try to paint the following myself, and if it doesn't go well, I'll have them professionally painted in high-gloss pearl dark grey after all repairs are done, and new parts are bought, etc.
    • - Upper fairing, air ducts, inner fairing (except around instruments and choke cable/fuel switch plate), lower fairing, fuel tank, main & rear side panels, tailpiece & mudguard.
      - Have the decals fitted before lacquering.
        ~ The decals will be similar to standard, but in satin black.
  • Engine cosmetics.
    • - When engine returns, repaint casings satin black and polish bare alloy areas.
      - Fit blue anodised alloy engine/transmission casing fasteners.
      - Fit Goodridge braided steel crankcase breather hose.
        ~ Black shrinktube on hose.
        ~ Blue anodised alloy fittings.
      - Repaint exhaust downpipes & collector black.
        ~ I have a Motad N-eta 4-2 exhaust on the bike. The system was on it when I bought it, but it had gold alloy cans, which I replaced with black items just before I stopped riding the bike.
  • Repaint all the following in black.
    • - Top yoke, handlebar switchgear, clutch & front brake master cylinders, rear brake master cylinder, front & rear caliper bodies, engine bars & rear carrier, passenger grab handles, main & side stands, main side panel meshes & rear brake torque arm.
  • Blue anodised alloy parts.
    • - Domed steering stem nut, fuel filler cap bolts, adjustable clutch & brake levers (alloy dials), bar ends, brake hose separator, tyre valve covers, tax disc holder, engine bar & rear carrier mounting bolts, fork brace fixing bolts, rear sprocket mounting nuts.


There are other things I've mentioned elsewhere (because they perform an actual function), that are also cosmetic items, like the blue stainless steel front & rear caliper mounting bolts, front & rear disc mounting bolts and frame bolts; painted fork sliders & swingarm; blue anodised alloy fork oil drain bolts; blue spring on the new shock; painting the frame; the coloured tubing & anodised alloy parts of the brake, clutch & crankcase breather hoses and oil cooler lines; the blue stainless steel clutch & brake master cylinder cap screws; blue HT leads & horns.

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