Yamaha
FJ1200
Restoration
Project
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Project Overview
Frame & Suspension
Wheels, Tyres & Brakes
Engine & Transmission
Electrics
Cosmetic, Cycleparts & Bodywork
Frame &
Suspension
Front Suspension Work
Rear Suspension Work
Frame Work
Front Suspension Work
- Remove & rebuild front fork assemblies.
- Replace pitted/rusted stanchions (these were fine before the bike was left lying up - if only I'd greased them and bought a cover). I found a place in Ashbourne, Co. Meath that says they can re-crome stanchions, even with bad rust, for £90 per pair. That's a lot cheaper than new stanchions at £120 each, eh?
- Clean sliders and paint satin black.
- Fit blue anodised alloy fork oil drain bolts (to tie in with my colour plan).
- New fork oil seals & dust covers.
- Pogressive Suspension progressive fork springs.
- New SAE20 fork oil (for better damping - standard is SAE10).
- I plan to fit a Telefix fork brace during the final rebuild. I haven't
heard anything (good or bad) about fitting a fork brace to an FJ, so if anyone
wants to save me bother & expense, or help me transform my bike, please
let me know.
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Rear Suspension Work
Frame Work
Rear Suspension Work
- Remove swingarm, linkages & shock (still the original unit, now with 76,000mls
on it - that's definitely for the bin!).
- Strip, clean & re-assemble swingarm & linkages.
- New bearing & bush kits.
- Stainless steel collars, spacers & sleeves, if I can get them.
- Clean swingarm & linkages and paint swingarm satin black.
- I've heard some nightmare stories about removing bearings from swingarms &
linkages - blowtorch, freezing, hammer & drift, patience, violence, etc. - but I'm
the type of guy who would rather buy a tool to make a job easy, even if I'll only
use that tool once. So unless a bearing removal tool is incredibly expensive, I'll buy
one. Apparently, it's not as simple as that. You need a slide hammer (£50) and the correct size collets (£40 each) to remove a bearing. I haven't seen my FJ's, and my Haynes manual doesn't list dimensions. I don't necessarily have a problem with the cost (like all men, I love tools...), but it looks like I'll only know what size collet(s) I'll need after I remove the swingarm & linkage...
- I plan to use a Hagon replacement rear shock unit (with a blue spring). This choice
is based primarily on value (subtle difference to "cost"). Anything I've read about
Hagon shocks has been good, and £200 certainly suits my pocket better than £400 for an
Ohlins or White Power unit, specially considering that my style of riding would never
exploit the difference.
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Front Suspension Work
Frame Work
Frame Work
- While other parts (engine, suspension, bodywork, etc.) are off the bike, repaint
the frame.
- I've contemplated a number of paints, and I currently favour Smooth Hammerite in silver. I hope not to have to disassemble the frame (other than the bottom rails for engine removal), or remove any of the wiring loom for repainting - just scrub off the rust/corrosion, then sand & paint.
- When rebuilding the bike, use new stainless steel nuts & bolts.
- I've seen in British mail order catalogues blue stainless steel bolts & nuts. These sound seriously sexy to me, but they're not cheap. I plan to use some blue anodised alloy trim parts around the bike, and wonder if the blue steel would match the blue alloy? If anyone knows anything (good or bad) about this, please
let me know.
- Fit new taper roller steering head bearings.
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Front Suspension Work
Rear Suspension Work
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