Yamaha
FJ1200
Restoration
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Engine & Transmission
I'm no mechanic - I reckon I can tackle most of the three-spanner jobs in the
Haynes manual. So almost all of my engine work will be done by a mechanic I
came accross the first time I needed crash repair work on my FJ. He got me
back on the road quickly, and because he's not a dealer or legit workshop (though
he is a professional mechanic, working for Yamaha for the last 16 years), he
didn't hold me to ransom. That's not to say he's a cowboy. Let's just say he's
the only bike mechanic (private or dealer) I've found in nine years of biking that
I trust. He's done work for me maybe 5 or 6 times on my FJ and I've never had
the feeling that he's not genuine.
I don't think the engine actually needs a
complete overhaul, but if enough parts are close to end of life, then it would be
justified. After all, it has over 76,000 mls on it, and I probably won't be doing
this major a rebuild on the bike again. So, here we go...
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Inhouse Work
Outsourced Work
Inhouse Work
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- Overhaul clutch master & slave cylinders.
- The last six months of riding my FJ were punctuated by weekly clutch bleeding
sessions, so, aside from this being a pain in the hole, now practically all the
paint is gone from the whole lower left side of the engine, and the clutch master
cylinder/reservoir. At first I only had to do it about once a month, so I used
cloths and cleaned up properly. But that went out the window soon enough. Sometimes
I'd get home from work, intending to go and bleed it after dinner, but Friends
or Top Gear or something was always on telly and I'd just say, "feck it - I'll get
up 15 minutes early next morning and do it before I head off". And of course I'd
forget and try to ride off the next morning only to find I'd no clutch. So then
there'd be a rushed clutch bleed, with fluid everywhere, and off I'd go.
- Replace clutch hoses and clean clutch fluid line.
- Fit Motoflex braided steel clutch hoses.
~ Black shrinktube on hoses.
~ Black anodised alloy banjo bolts.
~ Blue anodised alloy sockets, banjos & bleed nipple.
- Overhaul carbs.
- New RK XW-ring chain with blue sideplates.
- Renthal gunmetal grey alloy sprockets.
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Outsourced Work
Outsourced Work
I plan to remove the engine/transmission unit myself, and give it to my mechanic
to work on. He'll inspect for the following (the areas most likely to be suspect), and
more...
- Starter motor, starter motor clutch & starter motor idle gear wear.
- These are aparrently items susceptible to wear. I checked the starter
motor brushes at about 40k mls, but I wouldn't have known then (or even now)
what to look for to find wear in the motor itself, or the clutch or idle gear.
- Output shaft bearing/big-end wear.
- Sometimes there'd be a graunching sound from the bottom left of the
engine. I first thought it might have been the big end bearings, as when
I topped up or renewed the engine oil the sound would disappear. But when
the noise was still there when the oil was full, I adjusted & lubed the chain, and
that got rid of the noise too. So I'm well confused. But it must be one of
the following...
~ Output shaft bearing wear, caused by over-tightening the chain
too often.
- Top-end wear.
- I'm sure that valve, cam/camchain wear will be found. Not necessarily
through neglect, but who knows what abuse the scumbags who stole it
subjected the bike to? There is a bit of a rattle from the camchain, and
adjustment is already at max.
- To overhaul or not to overhaul?
- If any of the above are found to be worn, or close enough to their
end, then I'll decide to open and completely overhaul the engine. To be
honest, I almost hope that is the case. Even though it would cost more
money now, the peace of mind I'd have would be more than worth it. If
overhaul is deemed unnecessary, it'll just enjoy a really good, thorough
service.
- There are some parts that I definitely want to replace anyway, regardless of it
being necessary or not...
- New clutch plates & spring (to complement new hoses & fluid).
- K&N air filter & ND ZU sparkplugs (to complement Dynacoils).
- New standard & Magnom magnetic oil filters (can't be too safe).
- Magnetic oil drain bolt (even safer).
- New fuel pump (old one's dead).
~ I hear the fuel pump from a Bedford Rascal van can be fitted with mods - can someone
let me know what these mods are?
- New throttle connector cables (the short ones from the pulley to the
carb bodies).
- Goodridge oil cooler & braided steel lines (engine may run a little
hotter after light tuning?).
~ Black shrinktube on hoses.
~ Black anodised alloy banjo bolts.
~ Blue anodised alloy sockets & banjos.
- I've always used Silkolene Pro 4 oil and have had nothing to complain
about, but I'm hearing a lot of good now about a particular Castrol oil,
which I'll look into.
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Inhouse Work
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